TECH-NIQUE

STYLING WITH THE STARS

Let your skills sparkle with technical & artistic step-by-steps from Scratch Stars Awards finalists & champions

Scratch Star spotlight

Who: Jessica Price

What: Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2026

Why: Since qualifying 14 years ago, Jessica has showcased her work at global Fashion Weeks, brand events and within industry competitions. As an OPI Nail Boss and brand ambassador for Katie Barnes Tool Range, she is passionate about sharing her knowledge with fellow techs. She works at Nailspa, an award-winning salon in Huddersfield.

How: Jessica is dedicated to helping clients ‘achieve strong, healthy and beautiful natural nails, while providing a personalised and professional experience’.

WINNING WISDOM

Competing in the Scratch Stars Awards pushes you out of your comfort zone, and the experience gained is second to none. While the competition can be nerve-wracking, it is also inspiring, confidence-boosting and introduces you to new people, which can open the door to incredible opportunities.

Follow Jessica: @jessthenailspecialist @jessthenailspecialist

IDENTIFYING & REFINING NATURAL NAIL STRUCTURE ANOMALIES

Every nail enhancement starts with the natural nail, so it’s important to treat it with care. This means understanding its structure and knowing how to navigate any abnormalities.

The golden rule when correcting a nail concern is: if it’s new and has been developing over a few months, refer the client to a GP. If they’ve lived with it for years, nail techs can usually go ahead with treatment – as long as they have carried out a thorough assessment first. However, any tenderness, inflammation, discolouration and nail separation should be left untreated, particularly if the nail has been subject to trauma.

Here’s how pros can refine common nail structure issues while protecting natural nail health…

Ski jump nails

What are they?

Ski jump nails curve upwards at the free edge. This structure is more obvious on longer nail lengths, and is commonly seen on ring fingers – but can affect all nails.

Instagram.com/cuti.cles

What are the causes?

Ski jump nails can occur naturally or develop from trauma, including nail biting.

CORRECTION PROCESS: Often weak and flexible, ski jump nails are not usually the ideal candidate for gel polish. I suggest a structured manicure to best disguise the concern, and application of OPI GELevate™ 4-in-1 Builder to add strength.

Step 1 Prep the nail and trim the length if possible.

Step 2 Scrub gel polish base coat into the nail and cure.

Step 3 Apply a thin slip layer of brush-on builder gel and do not cure.

Step 4 Place a small bead of the builder gel just above the deepest point of the dip. Gently pull the product towards the free edge, allowing it to flow into and fill the dip, while maintaining an even finish. Turn the hand upside down for a few seconds to draw the product away from the edges of the nail. Cure.

Step 5 Remove the inhibition layer, then proceed with gel polish application if desired.

OPI GELevate™ 4-in-1 Builder in 4get Me Not £21.90 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com

TOP TIP Opt for round, oval or almond nail shapes. Square nails won’t mask the ski jump structure well.

Scooped nails

What are they?

Scooped nails are concave – meaning they curve inwards, resembling the shape of a spoon. The scientific term for scooped nails is koilonychia.

What are the causes?

Koilonychia can be caused by a number of factors: most commonly an iron deficiency or trauma to the nail. If scooped nails are a new symptom for a client, recommend that they visit their GP. In the case of iron deficiency, once treated, the nails may gradually return to their natural condition – but it is possible to correct a scooped shape while the nail recovers.

Instagram.com/dr.deshan

CORRECTION PROCESS: Due to the curve of the nail plate, structural correction should be carried out using brush-on builder gel, allowing the product to flex with the natural nail. Step 1 Prep and cleanse the nail.

Step 2 Scrub gel polish base coat into the nail and cure.

Step 3 Apply a thin slip layer of brush-on builder gel. Do not cure.

Step 4 Apply a medium-sized bead of builder gel to the centre of the nail, to create the apex and correct the scoop. Allow gravity to gently draw the product away from the sidewalls, keeping the bulk of the gel central.

Step 5 Assess the nail structure from the side, then cure.

Step 6 Remove the inhibition layer and proceed with gel polish application if desired.

TOP TIP Use an etching tool to prep the nail plate and prevent over-filing the curved sides of the nail. I recommend Katie Barnes’ Push & Prep Tool.

Katie Barnes Push & Prep Tool £29.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

Flared nails

What are they? Flared nails – also known as trapezoid nails – fan out at the free edge, making this the widest part of the nail.

What are the causes? Many flared nail shapes are naturally occurring, however repeated damage to sidewalls due to over-filing can cause nails to appear flared.

CORRECTION PROCESS:

Step 1 Prep the nail and shorten the free edge as much as possible, without filing into the sidewalls.

Step 2 Scrub gel polish base coat into the nail and cure.

Step 3 Using a fine liner brush, such as the Katie Barnes Long Striper Brush 11, apply a thin border of hard gel along the free edge. Use the gel to refine the corners, creating the appearance of a straighter, more tapered shape, then cure.

Step 4 Apply a thin slip layer of hard gel. Before curing, place a structural bead of gel approximately a third of the way down the nail. Allow gravity to level the bead, ensuring the product remains within the border created along the free edge. Cure.

Step 5 If required, refine with a 150-grit nail file and continue with gel colour application.

Instagram.com/katrina_studio_haugesund

Katie Barnes Long Striper Brush 11 £21.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

TOP TIP Do not over-file the sidewalls to create a slimmer nail shape. Instead, apply product thinly around the cuticle area and sidewalls, and add slightly more at the stress point. This creates a structured shape and minimises the flared appearance.

Hook nails

What are they?

Hook nails curve downwards at the free edge. Minor cases can usually be corrected by filing underneath the nail to lift it. However, take care when doing this if the client has a high hyponychium. More severe hook nails require additional correction work.

What are the causes?

Severe hook nails are often caused by trauma, while minor cases may be linked to the shape of the nail bed.

CORRECTION PROCESS:

Step 1 Prep the nail, reducing the length if possible.

Step 2 Fit a form snugly under the natural nail, pointing this upward rather than following the natural downward curve of the nail.

Step 3 Sculpt an extension using L&P acrylic, working from the natural free edge. Apply more product to the new free edge, so that you can remove product from underneath in the next step. This helps to raise the nail and correct the hook.

Step 4 Once the acrylic has set, remove the form and turn the client’s hand over. Use the Katie Barnes C-Curve Cleaning E-file Bit at 20,000-25,000 RPM to remove excess product underneath the nail.

Katie Barnes C-Curve Cleaning E-file Bit £16.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

Step 5 Refine the top of the nail using a 150-grit file, continually checking the apex and side profile. Continue with gel polish application if requested by the client.

TOP TIP

Applying tips partway up hook nails should be avoided, as it can create a gap between the natural nail and enhancement, where moisture and bacteria can become trapped.