Show & GEL

Choose the perfect gels for your clients’ nail needs with LILLY DELMAGE’S roundup of expert advice & product picks

While the popularity of soft gel products has dominated the nail industry in recent years, hard gel is standing firm as an ideal solution for repair and enhancement.

“For a long time, it has felt like builder gel in a bottle has been used on clients, regardless of its suitability for their nails,” shares Cornwall-based hard gel extension specialist & educator, Daisy May Flores. “Now, there is more awareness that one size doesn’t fit all, and clients are more open to being guided on what’s best for their natural nails. I’ve had more hard gel training enquiries this past year than in the previous three combined, which is refreshing.”

Theresa Foddering, Lecenté business development manager & Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award finalist 2025, adds: “If a client has weak or brittle nails that require extra support and strength, hard gel is a great option for enhancements.

The product often has a thick viscosity and provides a super strong base, to add extra support and protection to natural nails.”

Scan to see Manchester nail tech, @emilyrobynnailartist, start her hard gel journey using Nail Order, transitioning from brush-on builder gel manicures.

Scan to watch a client nail transformation using hard gel by pro, @byjessicaleahy.

THE GEL SYSTEM: FORMULA FOCUS

The variety of gel products and brands available can make it challenging to determine which is best to use. Here’s a breakdown of the science behind the gel system and some common gel types…

In book, Nail Therapist – A Professional Guide, author, Maria Sundberg Stuxgren, explains that all gel products are composed of advanced chemical compounds, with their properties determined by the structure of polymer chains formed during UV/LED curing. These chains, composed of monomers and oligomers, vary in flexibility and strength based on their molecular arrangement. By manipulating these structures, manufacturers can create gels with specific characteristics.

Traditional hard gel systems, typically housed in pots and applied with a brush, are designed to build and extend nails. Thicker and more durable than soft gel systems like gel polish, they can be used for overlays or to add length with forms or tips. Lucy Booth, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025, says: “I love the gel system because it is so prescriptive. Products have different strengths, flexibilities and colours, so your services can be expertly tailored to your clients’ needs.”

Art gels

Repair gels

Sculpting & structure gels

WHO IS THE GEL SYSTEM SUITED TO?

Emma Brock, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025 & OPI Nail Boss, shares which nail types are best suited to hard gel:

Clients most suited to hard gel enhancements include:

1. “Those with weak or brittle natural nails. Hard gel adds strength and durability.

2. Those who seek added length. Hard gel is excellent for sculpting extensions.

3. Those with natural nails prone to breaking. The strength of hard gel resists chipping and cracking.

4. Those with an active lifestyle. Hard gel can withstand more wear and tear than soft gel.

5. Those who seek long-lasting enhancements. Hard gel can last at least three weeks with proper maintenance.”

Clients not suited to hard gel enhancements include:

1. “Those with oily nail beds or who experience excessive nail lifting. Hard gel may not adhere well.

2. Those who frequently pick at or bite their nails. This can cause the gel to lift or crack.

3. Those with allergies or sensitivities to acrylates. Hard gel can trigger allergic reactions if not applied correctly.

4. Those unwilling to commit to regular infills and professional removal. Hard gel requires ongoing maintenance.”

Hard gel as a corrective tool

“One of the benefits of hard gel is its ability to correct natural nail shape,” says Barbara Preil-Kovács, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025. “It’s not just designed for creating structure; it’s a tool for transformation. I regularly work with clients who have hooked nails, which curve downward as they grow. With careful prep and assessment of the hyponychium, I can gently lift and straighten their appearance using hard gel.”

She continues: “Whether correcting minor asymmetry or a downward curve, hard gel enhances my clients’ natural nails without needing to extend. It’s essential to measure how far you can file without compromising the natural nail’s health, but when done correctly, the results are excellent.”

Barbara shares how to use hard gel to correct hooked nails, using Le Noir products:

Step 1 Prep the nail thoroughly, then apply Nail Prep & Super Sticky Acid-free primer. Apply Rubber Base Gel in Clear and cure. Next, apply Colla Gel, a hard gel, to the free edge of the nail and manipulate to create a straighter nail. Using the Oval #6 Gel Brush, apply Colla Gel as needed to the rest of the nail to build and reinforce the structure. Cure.

Step 2 Carefully assessing the hyponychium, file and correct the shape, being careful not to compromise the health of the natural nail.

Step 3 Continue with your client’s requested colour or nail art finish. I used a black gel polish and finished by applying the SuperShine Top Gel, then cured.

GEL APPLICATION & REMOVAL

Justyna Pryke, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025, shares her advice for perfecting hard gel infills: “I apply the first hard gel layer on the nails thinly, making sure the nail is fully covered. Then, I pick up a larger gel bead and apply it to one-third of the nail, where the apex is, using soft, round movements to pull the gel down towards the free edge. Place the client’s nail upside down to allow the product to self-level.”

Gelish Hard Gel: a step-by-step

Najet Hamila Strand, global director of education at Nail Alliance, shares why she loves the Gelish Hard Gel system: “Its self-levelling properties are helpful when building the apex curve. Keep application thin around its perimeters. When it is time for rebalancing, filing and reapplication is quick, providing a faster service or leaving more time to spend on nail art.”

How to use Gelish Hard Gel with tips:

Step 1 Select the correct sized tips for each nail. Ensure they reach the full width of the natural nail without overlapping the skin. If needed, file the sides slightly.

Step 2 Apply the tips using nail adhesive and use tip cutters to cut to the desired length.

Step 3 Blend the seam of the tip using a 180/180-grit file so it sits flush with the natural nail, ensuring a smooth transition and natural appearance. Remove dust using a nail dust brush or lint-free wipe.

Step 4 Apply Gelish pH Bond to the natural nails only, avoiding the tips.

Step 5 Apply a thin layer of Gelish Foundation Soak-Off Base Gel, scrubbing into the nail and tip. Cure for five seconds.

Step 6 Brush a thin layer of Gelish Hard Gel over the nail, but do not cure. This will help guide the next layer of gel smoothly into place. Next, apply a bead of Gelish Hard Gel to the centre of the nail, using a square or oval brush. Gently pull it down towards the cuticle, sidewalls and free edge. You can also use the stringing method, allowing the gel to ‘string’ from the brush to the nail in a controlled manner for precise placement. Cure in the Gelish 18g Unplugged Lamp for 30 seconds.

Step 7 Apply your chosen Gelish top coat and cap the edges to seal the enhancement. Cure for 30 seconds.

Step 8 Remove the inhibition layer using Gelish Cleanser. Massage Nourish Cuticle Oil into the cuticles and surrounding skin to hydrate.

Troubleshooting

Emma Brock details some of the most common issues nail techs can experience using the gel system – and how to fix them:

“Lifting

Cause: This is when the gel starts peeling away from the natural nail and is usually a result of poor nail prep. If there is any oil, moisture or non-living tissue left on the nail, the gel won’t adhere properly.

Fix: Take your time with prep. Push back cuticle, gently buff and dehydrate the nail plate, keep your base layers thin and ensure you cap the free edge.

“Heat spikes

Cause: The burning sensation under the lamp can happen when the gel layer is too thick or the product is curing too quickly. Sensitive nails are more prone to this.

Fix: Apply in thinner layers and flash cure for five to 10 seconds before a full cure. If your lamp has a low-heat mode, use it.

“Cracking or breaking

Cause: If the enhancement is too thin, or the stress points (like the apex or sidewalls) aren’t strong enough, the gel can crack.

Fix: Build a strong apex and reinforce key areas. Don’t apply too thin just to make the nail look natural – structure matters! Always finish with a top coat that’s designed for hard gel.

“Bubbles in the gel

Cause: These usually happen when you press too hard with the brush or overwork the product.

Fix: Use a light hand and let the gel do the work – it’s self-levelling for a reason! Don’t stir or mix the gel.

“Yellowing or discolouration

Cause: This is usually a result of low-quality products or exposure to tanning beds, cleaning products or smoking.

Fix: Invest in high-quality gels with UV protection. Encourage your clients to wear gloves when cleaning and avoid harsh chemicals.

“Most of these issues are easy to fix with good prep, quality products and a little patience,” concludes Emma.

Removal

Hard gel removal requires care and focus to maintain the health of the natural nail. Daisy May Flores advises: “Reduce the grit of the file as you near the nail plate, and leave a very thin layer of hard gel to grow out. Alternatively, apply a rubber base underneath, file down to that, then soak off.”

Andreia Professional product director, Sara Pinto, offers her expert advice for safe and efficient hard gel removal: “Never peel or force the gel off, as this can damage the natural nail. Instead, file down the bulk of the gel using an E-file, avoiding direct contact with the natural nail. I recommend using a coarse tungsten bit. Gently refine the remaining product until it is safely removed.

“If the client chooses to take a break from gel, leave a thin, even layer on the nail as a protective barrier during natural regrowth. This prevents weakening and helps maintain the integrity of the nail plate.”

Justyna Pryke shares her go-to tools and techniques: “My favourite tool for gel removal is a carbide flame E-file bit in medium or coarse. If there is any lifting, these bits remove it without damaging the natural nail. I always shorten the nails with my drill bit first, then finish-file using a hand file.”

WHY IS THE GEL SYSTEM BENEFICIAL?

We’ve learned about the benefits of the hard gel system, but many of the same advantages, such as adding length and strength, can also be said of the liquid & powder (L&P) acrylic system. So what are the key differences?

A nail tech’s perspective

Barbara Preil-Kovács says: “I used to work with the L&P acrylic system and eventually transitioned to hard gel, as I suffered with frequent headaches due to monomer odour. In terms of technique, hard gel gives me more time to work and sculpt, and I find it easier than L&P acrylic to file and refine.”

Suffolk-based nail tech & educator, Elenora Sinkeviciene, explains: “Hard gel is more flexible than L&P acrylic, making it less prone to cracking on clients with flexible natural nails, and it is stronger than soak-off gel.”

Daisy May Flores adds that she enjoys the convenience of hard gel: “It’s pre-mixed so, unlike the L&P system, you don’t need to worry about achieving a perfect ratio. I also find it much less temperamental in cold weather. Filing off hard gel is easier than L&P acrylic, as it is softer so prevents strain on the wrists.”

A client’s perspective

Emma Brock notes: “Clients love how natural gel looks and feels. It’s lighter than L&P acrylic and more flexible. Hard gel offers a glassy, high-shine finish that’s perfect for a clear design, encapsulation or natural look, while L&P acrylic tends to cloud over time.”