Nail NATION

HMRC unveils guidance to help hair & beauty pros determine employment status

HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) has published guidance to help UK hair and beauty professionals determine their employment status for tax purposes, put together with input from the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) and other sector groups. Designed to particularly support workers renting a chair or space within a salon, it comprises easy-to-follow information about common hair and beauty working practices and how they relate to employment status. For example, who sets working times and prices, and who provides clients and products.

The guidance outlines how HMRC’s Check Employment Status for Tax (CEST) tool can help determine whether an individual is employed or self-employed for tax purposes. It also includes a video, detailing the different tax obligations for employed and self-employed pros, alongside information about VAT registration requirements and the importance of written agreements when renting a salon space.

Kelvin Shorte, deputy director of taskforces & specialist compliance at HMRC, comments: “We understand that the hair and beauty industry operates with various working arrangements, and it’s vital that both salon owners and professionals get their tax status right. This new guidance responds directly to requests from the industry for clearer, sector-specific information. “Whether you’re a salon owner with staff or rent out chairs in your premises, this guidance will help you understand your obligations, so you can get your tax right first time.”

Scan to check out the HMRC guidance.

NAIL INDUSTRY MOURNS PASSING OF JESSICA VARTOUGHIAN

The nail industry has been deeply saddened by the passing of founder & former president of Jessica Cosmetics, Jessica Vartoughian, which was announced on 28 April via a @jessicacosmetics Instagram post. It reads: “A true pioneer and visionary, [Jessica] built an empire through her relentless hard work, passion and unwavering dedication.

“Jessica was not only an innovator and icon in the world of nails, but a true trailblazer whose passion, creativity and vision shaped an entire industry. She always put her best foot forward to bring the latest trends and innovations to life.” Nicknamed the ‘The First Lady of Nails’ by the New York Times, Jessica was born and raised in Romania, before moving to Los Angeles as a teenager. With no knowledge of English, she enrolled in beauty school, and her love for nailcare emerged when she began studying the anatomy of the nail.”

Jessica with Scratch co-founders, Alex Fox and Scott Derbyshire, in 2014.

In a 2015 interview with Scratch, Jessica commented: “I developed a passion for upgrading the manicure experience, making it sophisticated and luxurious for both the client and the professional. I opened my own salon in 1969: the Jessica Nail Clinic in Beverly Hills. It was the first ever nails-only salon and enabled me to teach my techniques to professionals, whom I call my ‘nail cultivists’.” A-list stars, including Barbara Streisand, Diana Ross and President Ronald Reagan, became fans of Jessica’s techniques, and she launched product line, Jessica Cosmetics, based on the philosophy of treating the nail from the foundation. Its range of products, which includes natural nail treatments, over 250 Custom Nail Colours, Phenom - Vivid Colour, GELeration Soak-Off Gel Polishes and the ZenSpa Pedicure range, is available in over 60 countries worldwide.

In an Instagram post, Jessica Cosmetics UK paid tribute to the trailblazer, writing: “[Jessica’s] legacy lives on through every product she developed and every client who discovered the confidence that comes from well-cared-for nails. Jessica’s daughter, Nadia, has been at the helm of Jessica Cosmetics International for many years, and will continue to grow her mother’s legacy.”

British Beauty Council calls for review of trading rules

The British Beauty Council (BBCo) has written to James Murray MP, Exchequer Secretary to the Treasury, to highlight the damaging effects of tariff loop holes. The UK currently allows shipments worth up to £135 to be imported from overseas without incurring customs duty, known as a de minimis rule. Following increased tariffs set by the US government, the BBCo spotlighted how there is an increased risk of ‘product dumping’ in the UK.

It is calling on the government to review its current de minimis rule, to level the playing field for imports and prevent products that do not meet UK cosmetic standards from entering the market.

In the letter to government, the Council wrote: “[This influx of products risks] undercutting UK products, without the robust regulatory safety guarantees that provide much valued assurance to British consumers. This poses serious risks to UK retailers and manufacturers, particularly at a time when the industry is already grappling with unprecedented financial pressures.

“With the EU moving towards abolishing its de minimis thresholds and strengthening its product safety controls, there is a significant risk that the UK becomes a target for non-compliant and displaced stock, further threatening the integrity of our retail ecosystem.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com

Aesthetics regulations introduced to raise standards of sector

The Nursery and Midwifery Council (NMC) announced that the remote prescribing of injectable cosmetic products is to be banned in the UK. From 1 June, patients seeking non-surgical cosmetic procedures (NSCPs) need an in-person appointment with a medical professional.

The decision follows calls from industry bodies, including the British Beauty Council (BBCo), who have raised concerns over the increasing numbers of people experiencing the ill-effects of poorly administered NSCPs.

The Scottish government has also revealed that a Non-Surgical Cosmetic Procedures Bill will be introduced within the next year, to regulate aesthetics treatments in Scotland and support the safety of those who undergo procedures.

Victoria Brownlie MBE, chief policy and sustainability officer at the BBCo, comments: “The British Beauty Council strongly welcomes the NMC’s guidance, which provides much needed clarity to stamp out remote prescribing.

Victoria Brownlie MBE

This prioritises robust training, regulated qualifications, mandatory insurance, premises standards and inspections across the UK. This instils greater public confidence in treatments offered.

“We must ensure that all four nations across the UK come together to ensure collaboration and effective implementation to achieve the desired outcomes of safety, professionalism and public confidence in aesthetic services.”

SURVEY HIGHLIGHTS RESILIENCE OF UK HAIR & BEAUTY BUSINESSES

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has unveiled its latest State of the Industry survey results, which show that businesses are adapting to rising financial and recruitment challenges. The majority of surveyed businesses (68%) remain hopeful about their long-term survival.

Gathering responses from over 430 UK businesses, the research found that 40% of hair and beauty businesses are making a profit, while 29% are breaking even. However, more businesses are reporting losses, compared to the NHBF’s January survey, and 30% expect a decline in turnover over the next three months. The results also show how increased employment costs are impacting recruitment, with only 8% of UK personal care businesses likely to take on new staff and 5% planning to employ apprentices. To adapt to challenges, 74% of businesses – the highest percentage shown in a State of the Industry survey to date – are raising prices.

“Despite considerable pressures, it’s clear that many hair and beauty businesses are showing resilience, but they cannot do it alone,” comments Caroline Larissey, chief executive of the NHBF. “With the right support – from VAT reform to practical help with apprenticeships and energy bills – we believe this sector can not only recover, but grow. We urge the government to act decisively to unlock the full potential of this vibrant industry.” www.nhbf.co.uk

Caroline Larissey

LED light therapy device to treat hand dermatitis receives FDA clearance

The handLITE™ device from LED light therapy technology provider, iSMART Developments, has secured FDA clearance. It is the world’s first non-UV light treatment device for the treatment of irritant contact dermatitis of the hand: a condition that affects millions globally. Traditional treatments involve the long-term use of topical steroids or immunomodulators, which have been criticised for side effects and patient compliance issues. However, the handLITE™ device harnesses the power of clinically validated red (630nm) and near-infrared (830nm) wavelengths to deliver targeted photobiomodulation therapy – with a study finding that 96% of subjects’ conditions improved after their first treatment course.

Sue D’Arcy, CEO & founder of iSMART Developments, comments: “[The FDA clearance] underscores our commitment to developing advanced, non-invasive therapies that fill gaps in the market. Our handLITE™ device offers a highly effective alternative for patients seeking to manage dermatitis, without the risks associated with steroidal or immunosuppressive treatments.” www.ismart.health

Showstopping nail art storms the runway at exclusive event in Shanghai

Nail brand, Muzer, hosted China’s first Avant-Garde Global Nail Art Show in Shanghai on 10 May, inspired by a night in Florence. The event welcomed 150 guests – including Nailympia China competitors, sponsors, judges and members of the press – to watch an exciting catwalk show, where 20 models adorned a variety of nail designs. These innovative looks were conceptualised and created by nail artists from across the globe, and featured works inspired by porcelain, pottery and decadent florals.

Prior to the runway show, CND™ co-founder, Jan Arnold, took to the stage to share the story behind the 46-year old brand, and how nail styles have evolved over time. An enchanting dance interlude followed, before the first showcase of nail mastery. Industry veteran, Marian Newman BEM, spoke about her session nail career, to inspire Asian nail pros to consider the field. Artistry was then celebrated with a second catwalk event, where extreme nails dazzled amongst the models’ glittering dresses. Anna Lee, international education director for Muzer, comments: “I am so thankful to the nail artists and creatives who made the Avant-Garde Global Nail Art Show such a success. The East met the West in a space where nails were the centre of attention.”

Read all about the show in next month’s edition of Scratch.

Jan Arnold & Anna Lee

NHBF expands Top 100 Influencer Index

Now in its fifth year, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has announced changes to its Top 100 Influencer Index, which celebrates UK pros setting trends, educating and inspiring audiences via social media. From now on, it will be divided into two categories: the Top 50 Hair Influencer Index and the Top 50 Beauty Influencer Index.

The Top 50 Beauty Influencer Index will be unveiled at Tones of Beauty, a trade show dedicated to multicultural beauty, on 30 June at ExCeL London. Eligible candidates must be professionals actively working in the hairdressing, barbering, beauty, spa, nail or aesthetics industries. They must hold a relevant qualification from a regulated awarding organisation, or have a minimum of five years’ continuous experience within their field.

Following nominations, a top 250 list is compiled. This is reviewed based on social media following, engagement and reach to generate the Index.

NHBF chief executive, Caroline Larissey, comments: “Splitting the awards into two categories allows us to showcase the incredible talent and influence across both the hair and beauty sectors. We are particularly excited to reveal the Top 50 Beauty Influencers live at Tones of Beauty, giving them the platform and recognition they deserve.” www.nhbf.co.ukwww.tonesofbeautyexpo.com

Caroline Larissey

Scratch Stars finalist unveils Saviour™: restorative products for nails & skin

Theresa Foddering

Business owner, educator & finalist for the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award 2025, Theresa Foddering, has launched SaviourTM : products to repair and support the health of dry, damaged and compromised nails and skin. With the ethos, ‘inspired by nature, formulated with knowledge, created with experience’, two hero products are available: The Nail & Skin Restoring Balm and The Nail & Skin Restoring Oil.

The products are designed to work in harmony, and ingredients include lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus and avocado oil – chosen to repair, restore and deeply condition nails and skin, while delivering antifungal and anti-inflammatory benefits. The products were initially formulated for nail repair, but testing revealed positive results on surrounding skin – especially for subjects experiencing dryness, redness or irritation.

“This project has been years in the making, developed not just with knowledge, but with purpose,” comments Theresa, aka The Naildresser. “SaviourTM is a professional-grade remedy inspired by issues such as nail separation, allergy damage, habit-tic, psoriasis and cracked heels.”

Saviour TM products are available to purchase via www.saviournails.co.uk, with pros able to access exclusive trade pricing, resources and stockist opportunities.

Before using Saviour TM

After two days

Industry personnel make best-sellers list with Shine book launch

Joan Scott

Joan Scott, CEO of Habia, skills consultant & beauty and spa expert, has edited Shine: a ‘must-read guide to achieving success through a growth mindset.’ Twenty-four successful business leaders share their stories within the book, to help cultivate growth and inspire confidence and excellence. Available to download via Kindle edition or purchase as a paperback, Shine is a #1 Best Seller in the USA, UK, Canada, Australia and is in the Top 5 in Germany, France and Netherlands.

Joan Scott comments: “Shine explores powerful themes such as fear of failure and the importance of taking action with self-confidence and motivation. It dives into the journey of personal development, cultivating a success mindset and tackling common barriers, like procrastination and perfectionism.”

Jacqui O’Sullivan

Featured authors include beauty client experience expert, Fiona Jackson; spa specialist, Kay Pennington; spa and wellness consultant, Jacqui Lee, and nail industry consultant & competition director, Jacqui O’Sullivan. O’Sullivan’s chapter focuses on what has made her ‘shine’ – and how this can be fostered in others. She focused on nail and beauty competitions, and an extract reads: “Dealing with challenges and setbacks is a huge part of any skills competition cycle and through these experiences, competitors learn that perseverance and hard work is crucial to reaching their goals. This resilience isn’t just valuable in competitions, but important in everyday life. The skills they pick up along the way benefit them in competitions as well as in school and life, helping them develop a success-driven mindset.” Joan Scott adds: “Readers are encouraged to build resilience, overcome fears and strengthen self-belief, while stepping outside of their comfort zones. Featured authors share their stories, challenges and the approaches that have worked for them. They highlight the value of discipline, mental toughness and courage in pursuing life goals.”

Visit https://amzn.eu/d/1Pf6STj or search for ‘ Shine ’ on Amazon.com to purchase.

DATES FOR THE DIARY

9-11 June Annabel’s Art Assembly

Marking Glitterbels co-founder & creative director, Annabel Maginnis’ return to educating after five years, this event takes place in the Staffordshire nail brand’s new HQ (see page 62). Three day-long sessions are on offer, focused on gel polish, L&P acrylic and Builder-bel Gel™. In each, Annabel will reveal product, nail art and photography advice.

For more information, visit www.glitterbels.com

6 July The Scratch Stars Party

The Scratch Stars Party returns to The Underglobe, London, uniting nail pros to celebrate excellence within the industry. Hosted by TV presenter, Jeff Brazier, the event will feature live music from garage duo, Artful Dodger, and reveal the winners of the 18 Scratch Stars Awards categories for 2025. Tickets include a prosecco reception, goody bag and two hours of complimentary house drinks.

To purchase a ticket, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars or scan here

8 August Registration closes: Nailympia London online categories

Nailympia London, now in its 21st year, is inviting nail professionals from across the globe to enter up to 11 of the competition’s online nail art categories. These include Flat Art (Carnival & Cabaret theme), To Stiletto & Beyond (Cultural Identity theme) and AI Nail Vision Poster – new for 2025. Registration for the categories closes 8 August, with submissions due 17 August. www.nailympia.com/london

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES

Warrington nail tech, Katarzyna Korzeniak, won Scratch’s April Scratch Snap nail art competition. The pro created a design to theme, Your Favourite Spring Trends, and scooped a True Pure vegan gel polish bundle from Andreia Professional. Entries were judged by Sara Pinto, product director at Andreia Professional, and

Scratch’s deputy editor, Rebecca Hitchon. www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratch-snap

Piercing equipment and training provider, Studex, is catering to demand for multiple piercings and ear stacks by offering exclusive guidance on these techniques to its Piercing Partners. Trending multi piercings include the triangle piercing, auricle piercing and spider bite. For information about training with Studex and becoming a Piercing Partner, visit www.studexuk.com

Salon business coach & mentor, Liz McKeon, presented a talk at a TEDx Women event, titled ‘The Art of Rebuilding’. She leveraged her experience and proven abilities to turn complex business issues into simple tasks, to help attendees ‘create better businesses and more enjoyable lives’.

Scan to watch the talk

The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) has unveiled its annual Sun Protection Campaign for 2025, which highlights information for enjoying the sun safely. Its consumer website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk, features information on how to enjoy the sun. www.ctpa.org.uk

UK-founded brow brand, Buff Browz, has opened two warehouses in The Netherlands and United States, following increased global demand for its products, which range from brow mapping tools to tinting and lamination kits. The expansion will enhance the efficiency and ease of delivery operations across Europe and the US. www.buffbrowz.co.uk

UK non-surgical aesthetic systems manufacturer, CACI, has launched portable, handheld microcurrent device, CACI Micro-Pro. Using the tool, pros – including those who work on a mobile basis – can deliver handcare, facial toning and skin rejuvenation treatments. www.cacibeauty.com