6 mins
Love & Sparkles with Katy P nail artist
The World’s Star Nail Artist 2023 shares tips, techniques & insights into her soaring career
ABOUT KATY
Katy Pottle, or ‘Katy P’, has over two decades of experience in the nail industry. From working on a mobile basis to owning a salon, her journey is a testament to her dedication and passion for the world of nails. She loves glitter and is on a mission to help nail techs worldwide shine, one intricate design at a time, with her online workshops and one-to-one masterclasses. In July 2023, following an intense competition process, Katy beat nail artists across the globe to be crowned the first World’s Star Nail Artist. She seeks to inspire and mentor fellow pros, and sprinkle her signature ‘love and sparkles’ across the industry.
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Mastering nail art trends: chrome, ombre & watercolour ‘
Chrome, ombré and watercolour are three trendy nail art techniques, but they each come with their own challenges. In this month’s column, I’m sharing my advice for perfecting the styles and tackling common issues with application and results.
CHROME
There’s something irresistible about the mirror-like appearance of chrome nails. The finish is a glamorous one that clients adore, but let’s be real: it can be a tricky technique to master.
Top tips:
• The base is key. Flawless chrome application starts with a flawless base. Any imperfections, like lint or bubbles, will stand out once chrome powder is applied. Apply a black base colour to make chrome pop, and finish with a non-wipe top coat, making sure these are even and smooth before curing.
• Use a silicone tool. When rubbing in chrome powder using this tool, the trick is to use gentle pressure and circular movements to work the powder into the nail. Follow with the clean side of the tool to buff up the shine.
• Seal the deal. To avoid chipping, encapsulate both the chrome and top coat and remember to cap the edges.
Common challenges:
• Adhesion. Not all non-wipe top coats are designed for use with chrome pigment. If your chosen chrome isn’t sticking, reduce your initial cure time by 10 to 15 seconds to make it slightly tackier. Don’t forget to finish the cure afterwards.
• Grainy application. When you apply gel on top of chrome, do you find that the chrome has a grainy finish? Once you have applied chrome powder and dusted off the excess, place the nail into the lamp for a full cure to maintain the shine.
• Skipping the buff. Lightly buff the free edge before applying gel products. This helps create grip when sealing chrome pigment.
‘ GEL OMBRE
Ombré is a versatile and ever-popular trend, but if you’re struggling to achieve a seamless gradient, you’re not alone.
Top tips:
• Choose the right colours. You must select shades of the same tone to create an aesthetically pleasing blend.
• Use a base coat. Even when creating an ombré on a buffed extension or structured manicure, apply a base coat. This provides a slip layer, which helps the shades to be blended more easily.
• Layer up. Don’t expect to achieve the perfect gel ombré in one go. Build it up in thin layers, curing between each application.
Common challenges:
• Overloading the brush. This leads to a patchy or overly thick application. Use minimal product and build slowly.
• Too much pressure. When blending, use a light hand. Pressing too hard will remove too much product.
• Skipping layers. One thick layer can become lumpy or streaky. Multiple thin, even layers are best.
“You
must select shades of the same tone to create an aesthetically pleasing blend.”
WATERCOLOUR
Watercolour nails are tiny pieces of unique art. They suit this season’s earthy tones and abstract designs, but can be intimidating to create.
Top tips:
• Work on a matte base. Apply a matte top coat and cure before starting a watercolour design, to prevent the colours from spreading too much.
• Less is more. Apply the diluted colours sparingly. Use a thin detail brush to move and blend the shades.
• Layer up. Build watercolour designs slowly, allowing each layer to dry before adding more detail. This adds depth and dimension and prevents colours from bleeding.
Common challenges:
• Too much water. This can cause the design to flood the cuticle or smear. Dab excess water onto tissue paper.
• Colours not popping. Use a white or light-coloured base to make watercolour shades stand out. You can also layer watercolour designs over glitters or flakes for a gorgeous base sheen. Always encapsulate and use a matte top coat before applying watercolours.
• Clean water. Change the water regularly to prevent lighter colours from turning muddy. Alternatively, keep two pots of water close by: one for light, nd one for dark colours.
“Watercolour
nails are tiny pieces of unique art. They suit this season’s earthy tones and abstract designs.”
STEP-BY-STEP: chrome pumpkin
KIT LIST
All products from Magpie Beauty:
• Prep & Dehydrate
• Cleanser
• Pinkie Lint-free Nail Wipes
• Get A Grip Base Coat
• Give Me Strength Builder Gels in Truffle and Clear
• Gel Paint in Neon Orange
• ARTYgelTM in Black and White
• Chrome Dusts in Jenny, Audrey, Bruna, Moet, Elfie and Hunter
• Velvet Top matte top coat
• Like A Diamond Top Coat
• 240-grit buffer
• Nail Striper Brush
• Silicone Tool
• Soft Duster Brush
Step 1 Apply Get a Grip Base Coat and two coats of Give Me Strength in Truffle to a prepped nail, curing between each application. Remove the inhibition layer with Prep & Dehydrate on a lint-free wipe. Using the soft side of a 240-grit buffer, buff the nail until the surface is matte. Wipe with Prep &
Dehydrate on another lint-free wipe. Create the outline of a pumpkin design using a striper brush and Gel Paint in Neon Orange.
Step 2 Fill in the design with the Gel Paint, ensuring application is smooth. Cure.
Step 3 Apply Chrome Dust in Jenny to the pumpkin with a silicone tool, and dust off excess with a fluffy duster brush. Outline the pumpkin using ARTYgel
TM
in Black and cure.
Step 4 Using a clean silicone tool, rub Chrome Dust in Audrey over the black lines. Dust off excess powder. Paint the pumpkin stalk with a striper brush and ARTYgel
TM
in Black. Cure.
Step 5 Apply Chrome Dust in Bruna over the black stalk and remove excess powder.
Add a few leaves to the stalk using ARTYgel
TM
in Black. Cure.
Step 6 Add Chrome Dust in Elfie to the leaves, removing excess powder. If you wish, you can add Black ARTYgel
TM
lines to the stalk and leaves for depth.
Step 7 If you chose to add the lines in step 6, apply Chrome Dust in Moet to the stalk and Chrome Dust in Hunter to the leaves. Mix some ARTYgelTM in White and Neon Orange Gel Paint to create a light orange shade, and apply to each section of the pumpkin to create highlighted areas. Cure.
Step 8 Apply Chrome Dust in Jenny over the light orange areas and dust off excess powder. Buff the free edge using a 240-grit buffer, and remove dust with a soft duster brush. Encapsulate the nail with Give Me Strength in Clear and cure. Apply Velvet Top to the background and cure. Using a striper brush and Like A Diamond Top Coat, paint over the pumpkin to elevate its shine. Cure, then cleanse the inhibition layer.
Nail art is a journey and with patience, practice and passion, you’ll master these techniques. Remember, you learn from each mistake, so grab your brushes, powders and polishes, and have fun!
Love and sparkles,
Katy P x