Into the extreme

Continue an exploration into the exciting world of extreme nail styling with award-winning nail artists

Part 3

Extreme nail art is a powerful expression of creativity, combining precision and innovation to push the boundaries of traditional nail design. This art form allows stylists to transform nails into unique canvases, exploring bold and intricate designs that challenge conventional techniques.

Mastering extreme styles not only highlights an artist’s advanced skills, but opens doors to professional growth, recognition and opportunities in international competitions and education. For those passionate about their craft, extreme nail artistry offers a way to break free from routine, stand out in the industry and turn nails into captivating works.

Scratch scours the globe for a closer inspection of the ideas, techniques and skills utilised by experts to bring their extreme art to life…

GENKI ITOU

Renowned nail artist & award-winning champion

@genki_ito

Extreme nail shaping blends artistry, precision and innovation. For those willing to immerse themselves in this demanding yet fulfilling field, the rewards are immense, offering endless opportunities for creativity and professional growth. The world of extreme shaping is not just about nails – it’s about transforming how we see and create art.

Choosing the right material is crucial when seeking to achieve a specific nail style. For instance, when creating a dramatic C-curve from the nail base to the tip, liquid & powder (L&P) might be preferred. However, if transparency is a key aspect of the design, gel may be a better fit.

A common challenge in extreme nail shaping is managing the distortion that can occur when using gel. As gel hardens, it undergoes a chemical change and shrinks, which can alter the intended shape. To counteract this, it’s essential to fill in the backside when working with extremely long pieces, ensuring the overall shape remains intact. Furthermore, balancing creativity with durability is a challenge. Even a slight adjustment in the C-curve can impact the strength of a nail, highlighting the importance of precision when working.

For those interested in venturing into extreme nail styling, I can confidently state that the process is incredibly engaging. However, it can be all-consuming, so it’s important to work methodically to avoid burnout. If an extreme nail piece breaks, it’s not the end of the road, as repairs can be made with glue or gel, allowing you to continue refining your work. The repetitive nature of extreme shaping can enhance your everyday nail skills, making for a more efficient and enjoyable salon experience.

Alex Fox says…

“Genki emphasises that clients’ nails come in all shapes and conditions, making it essential for a nail technician to be proficient in working with different materials and methods. Mastering these techniques not only builds confidence, but earns the trust of clients. For educators, it broadens the scope of teaching.

“Genki finds creativity in architecture and machinery – for example, observing how buildings maintain balance or how machines are assembled. This ability to see design possibilities in everyday objects allows for the creation of original and imaginative nail shapes that stand out in competitions and beyond.”

KRISTA PAULITTI

Extreme nail artist & educator

@kristapaulittitheartist

Nail design is a craft – a form of artistic expression. Extreme artistry showcases your potential to clients and offers the opportunity to receive international awards with diplomas and trophies, in prestigious arenas such as Nailympia. The world of extreme nails is one where creativity knows no bounds and there are no set rules or norms. Each nail designer can express their unique style and imagination in ways that are both personal and ground-breaking.

A well-prepared nail drawing with scale is an essential starting point. Depending on the use of the construction material, I prefer brushes made from natural hair. For example, when building extreme nail shapes, I use the KP Construction UV Gel Clear/Pink XP-100. Depending on the acrygel system used, I work with a spatula or brush. I also rely on various nail files and an airbrush for colouring. When it comes to decoration, anything can be used, allowing for complete creative freedom. Familiarity with different materials is crucial, as is the experience of working with them.

“The world of extreme nails is one where creativity knows no bounds and there are no set rules or norms. Each nail designer can express their unique style and imagination in ways that are both personal and ground-breaking.”

ANASTASIA TOTTY

Multi award-winner & international educator for LeChat Nails

@anastasia.totty

Extreme nail art is a unique and exhilarating challenge that pushes nail artists to blend imagination with the highest level of technical skill. For those who embrace this challenge, the opportunity to create nails worthy of an art exhibit is unmatched, and the craft can elevate your profile.

Extreme nail styles are most commonly seen in the arenas of international nail competitions and within the pages of nail magazines, where they serve as inspiration for many. These intricate designs require a considerable amount of time to conceptualise and execute, making them less suited for everyday salon work. The process demands careful planning, starting with the shape.

I begin each project with a sketch, carefully considering how to approach the theme in a unique and interesting way. The key to success lies in understanding that the highest level of skill involves creating a nail shape inspired by diverse sources, such as nature, literature and folk art. I focus on the structure of the nail first, ensuring that it is strong and well-balanced, before adding embellishments and design elements that complete the look.

To create successful extreme nail shapes, the same principles must be followed as when sculpting standard nails. This includes proper form placement, tailoring, apex and C-curve creation, while ensuring a thin free edge. Attention to these details guarantees a balanced shape with structural integrity and durability.

It can be challenging to continuously create unique shapes without repeating past designs. Most nail artists develop their own styles and preferred techniques over time, but the key to growth is to keep learning, improving on previous designs and pushing oneself to evolve. If you are not satisfied with the results, don’t hesitate to start again or redo certain steps like sculpting, filing and buffing out file lines. Extreme nail art is a thrilling and creative endeavour that requires dedication, skill and a willingness to continually learn and grow.

“Continuous learning is essential in any profession, and nail art is no exception.”

ÉVA PÁSZTORNÉ

Master educator & nail stylist

@evaprofessionalnails

One of the most significant advantages of mastering extreme nail techniques is gaining the ability to cultivate a unique style. In a saturated market, differentiation is key, so by developing innovative designs, nail professionals can distinguish themselves and create a personal brand that resonates with clients.

Continuous learning is essential in any profession, and nail art is no exception. Mastering extreme techniques allows nail artists to expand their skillsets and enhance their competencies and reputations. My work, for example, has garnered attention in several key areas and afforded professional recognition. Unique and creative designs offer points of difference, attracting clients who seek something special. Creative solutions also contribute to building a strong, recognisable brand.

Producing an extreme nail design is a complex and creative process that begins with designing and sketching the nail shape and composition, often inspired by themes or unique concepts. Specialist materials and tools are gathered, including forms, extreme gels, acrylic powder and various decorative elements. The creation process involves shaping, building and decorating.

Crafting an extreme nail can take several days, or even weeks, due to the detailed work and multiple layers involved. The result is a unique and striking design that requires special attention and attracts interest. Using premium gel, acrylic or acrygel ensures the longevity of the design, and thorough preparation of the nail surface is crucial for long-lasting results. Applying products in thin layers enhances the strength and durability of the nail. Ensuring correct curves helps prevent breaks and maintains the nail’s integrity.

Participating in professional courses focused on extreme shapes is essential for gaining necessary skills, and close attention to detail and precise workmanship are important for achieving the best results. Cultivating creative skills and seeking inspiration from a variety of sources will help you develop your unique style, and joining professional communities allows for the exchange of experiences and learning from others.

JEANETTE ULRIKSEN

Nail competition judge, artist & educator

@nails_beauty_and_wellness

Extreme nails are not just a visual spectacle: they are a testament to a nail artist’s skill and precision. The creation of these intricate designs requires a higher level of craftsmanship compared to standard nail art, as the longer and more elaborate the nail, the more visible any mistakes become. This means that every step – from setting the form to sculpting and filing – must be executed meticulously.

An error in the placement of the form or an incorrect angle during filing can ruin the entire structure, making it imperative for nail artists to hone their skills to perfection. Precision and attention to detail elevate the nail artist’s status, making them more advanced and sought-after in the industry, which can be a powerful tool for marketing.

There is a universal appeal in learning new techniques, especially when they are as visually striking as those in extreme nail art. For nail techs who are passionate about their craft and eager to expand their horizons, mastering extreme nails can provide a unique opportunity to teach and inspire others across the globe.

In competitions, extreme nails are a key highlight, drawing attention and admiration from both judges and peers. This exposure not only enhances the artist’s reputation, but serves as impressive marketing, attracting clients who are looking for something extraordinary.

For those interested in exploring extreme nail art, I recommend starting with a practice form on a pinching stick to avoid damaging your own nails or those of a model. Take classes to learn techniques and gain inspiration from experienced artists. The key is to practice, refine your skills and not be afraid to experiment with new shapes and designs.