13 mins
BREAKING THE STIGMA: why male manicures are booming
Image courtesy of En Vogue Nails, with nails created using Fibre Gel and the Lac it! Gel Polish system, available via www.envoguenails.eu
LILLY DELMAGE investigates the rising popularity of male nail art & shares tips to ensure your nail space is gender inclusive
Beauty treatments have long been targeted and marketed towards women, aligning with a dated societal view that maintaining a well-kept form is solely a female concern. Acts to enhance a man’s appearance, beyond hair styling and beard grooming, have been largely stigmatised, considered ‘un-manly’ and effeminate.
The nail industry is impacted by this: not just discouraging some men from booking treatments, but deterring them from training in the field. According to the 2024 Nail Technician Salary Survey by by training provider, Future in Beauty, men make up just 7% of the current nail and beauty staff workforce in the UK.
Men sporting nail colour dates back to 3500 BC*, when Babylonian warriors decorated their fingertips with ground minerals to intimidate their enemies during a pre-battle ritual. So why has an air of the taboo hovered over male nail services? And how are things changing? Let’s explore…
*According to The History of Cosmetic Nail Treatments, ‘From Babylon to Beyoncé’ by University of Rochester Medical Center.
TOXIC MASCULINITY
The term ‘toxic masculinity’ refers to a set of stereotypical attitudes, behaviours and expectations of men held by society. This has long enforced a belief that men should be a provider, with little time for focuses that can be considered trivial.
Directory for verified hair and beauty businesses, Where To Glow, conducted a survey in 2022, which found that 95% of men believe there is a stigma surrounding men receiving beauty treatments. The survey also noted an optimistic result, with 67% of male respondents sharing that they have indulged in treatments other than barbering. However, only 23% said they would openly tell others about them. So, while men are becoming more open to the idea of self-care practices, toxic masculinity stigmas persist.
James Reeve-Shillito
James Reeve-Shillito, a luxury manicurist & nail artist from Peterborough, shares why he thinks this is, commenting: “The negative views are still perpetuated by ‘alpha’ males who think that any form of self-care outside of a gym is a form of weakness, when that’s not the case.”
Alex Philamond
“Lad culture is all about assimilating; anything that goes against that grain is typically questioned andridiculed, often for being ‘feminine’,” adds Alex Philamond, a nail artist from Esher, Surrey. “This toxic masculinity is why so many men feel insecure about expressing themselves, whether through emotions or appearance. All my male nail clients have commented on how they wish they’d indulged in a manicure sooner, and have regretted letting the social stigma get in the way.”
A 3D, abstract manicure created by Alex Philamond for a male client.
James comments on the previous experiences of his male clients, sharing: “Every one of them has mentioned feeling uncomfortable in traditional salon environments due to how they have been treated, including being laughed at, referred to as ‘one of the girls’ and even refused because the salon ‘doesn’t deal with men’.”
Noah Lyles sporting a USA-inspired manicure as he represents his country at the 2024 Paris Olympic Games
OLYMPIC OUTRAGE
Coverage of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris highlighted stigma surrounding nail art. Athletes turned to manicures as an outlet of self-expression, nodding to their retrospective countries and sports with flag designs and positive affirmations. Team USA sprinter, Noah Lyles, was among those decorating their nails, sporting a white overlay manicure with the word ‘ICON’ painted in blue, featuring stars and crosses in his country’s national colours. However, the nail style was met with a wave of backlash online.
Responding in an interview with US Weekly, Lyles commented: “I’m a person who knows that a lot of people have different opinions and have them for different reasons. To be honest, I’m so confident in myself that it doesn’t really matter.” And Noah is just one of many male stars unafraid to challenge societies gendered beliefs.
Negative comments on posts featuring Noah Lyles’ nail art:
THE STARS CHAMPIONING MALE MANICURES
Many high-profile males have played a pivotal role in putting male manicures on the map. Alex Philamond says: “We’re in an age where society takes so much license from influencers and celebrities. If famous men have painted nails, it signals to others that it’s on-trend and acceptable.”
HALL OF FAME:
Male stars sporting nail colour & art
Rock, roll & rebelling stereotypes
The 1970’s rock ‘n’ roll, punk music scene was bursting with male artists adorning their nails with colour. David Bowie was a notable example, from flaunting a pearl-white look matching a white suit, to matching his manicure to that of fellow rockstar, Mick Jagger, for a party in 1973. Freddie Mercury also helped paved the way for a more accepting society, regularly sporting painted nails on just one hand – a look he became renowned for. American musician, Kurt Cobain, followed suit in the ‘90s with chipped black nail polish.
Harry Styles
Former One Direction member, Harry Styles, has become an advocate for genderless beauty, sporting outfits adorned with frills, sequins and flowers, which are typically deemed as feminine. His unapologetic nail looks are no exception – so much so, that the singer released his own line of nail polishes under his brand, Pleasing. The brand’s mission is to blur boundaries and enable self-expression, and his polishes offer a means to do so.
LA-based nail artist and Harry Styles’ trusted tech, Sigourney Nuñez, also tends to the nails of her husband, sharing his nail snaps with her 150,000+ Instagram followers.
Sigourney attends a Harry Styles show with a sign reading: ‘This is your daily reminder to apply cuticle oil.’ Scan to watch Nuñez recreate Harry’s ‘pearl nail’ Grammys manicure using Pleasing shade, Pearly Tops.
Lil Nas X
The American rapper is no novice to a manicure, having adorned his nails in unique nail art for years, reassuring male fans that sporting indiscreet nail designs shouldn’t be taboo.
Lil Nas X wore a manicure with ‘Lil Nas’ emblazoned across nails in 2019, courtesy of celebrity nail artist, Juan Alvear.
The star attended the 2024 VMAs flaunting a superhero-inspired manicure, also by Juan Alvear, matching his pink and white leather two-piece.
The Instagram feed of fashion designer, Marc Jacobs, is flooded with photos of his enhanced nails. He has an affinity for long, square talons, and regularly shares videos and snaps of the looks, created by Yulenny Garcia (@muneca_beauty_nails). In a post of his natural, short nails, he captions: ‘Me no happy’ – before a transformation pic was uploaded of long talons a few days later.
Teddy Swims
Singer, Teddy Swims, requested red nails with molten silver tips for his 2024 VMA appearance, created by Juan Alvear using OPI hue Emmy, Have You Seen Oscar?
OPI GelColor in Emmy, Have You Seen Oscar? £19.90 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com
US college basketball sensation, Jared Mccain, has become known for more than his sporting prowess. He expresses himself through nail colour and regularly shares posts of his nails on his social media accounts: so much so, that nail colour and care brand, Sally Hansen, has named him as an ambassador. The brand’s first sports partnership sees the athlete promote inclusivity and self-expression in the sports community and beyond. In a video on TikTok, Mccain comments: “I think everybody should do some self-care for themselves. For me, that’s nail painting – I’m sorry if that offends any of you guys.”
LIFE AS A MALE NAIL TECHNICIAN
Celebrities haven’t just supported the acceptance of male manicures and nail art, but helped highlight the number of men interested in, or trained in the craft. James Reeve-Shillito reflects on how he was treated at the start of his career: “When I first started it was difficult, and I received a fair bit of negativity from fellow techs due to being a man.”
Tan Morris-Tran
Tan Morris-Tran, owner of MT Nail Studio, Macclesfield, also experienced this. He shares: “I had instances where a client would ask to wait for one of my female colleagues, despite me being available. As a young professional, that knocked my confidence, but I was aware that I was one of very few men who did nails as a profession, and people weren’t used to seeing it.
“I struggled with the belief that because I was a man in a female-dominated business, I wasn’t good enough,” he continues. “This made me feel invisible, but I decided to look at nails as an art career rather than beauty career, and this really helped me.”
The nail artist shares that his gender has now become a comfort to clients, revealing: “Many of my clients often express to me how they would feel intimidated going into other salons, as they wouldn’t feel they would fit in. They find comfort in coming to me as they feel that – being a man – I’m less judging of them.”
Danny Manchip
Danny Manchip agrees, saying: “If anything, these days I feel like I have been embraced because of my gender. For years there was a clear divide for male and females in the industry, but these days I believe that no one cares who you are or what you do.”
LA-based Tom Bachik, calls himself ‘the celebrity MAN-icurist’ and has made a name for himself in the nail realm as an ambassador, judge and nail pro to the stars. He’s pictured tending to the nails of a regular client: singer & actress, Jennifer Lopez.
TOP TIP
“The key to a successful men’s manicure lies in adapting your service,” shares Elaine Watson, global education director at Light Elegance. “Men’s nails tend to be thicker and stronger than women’s. Ditch the high-shine block and focus on cuticle care, shaping and buffing.”
Elaine Watson
INCLUSIVITY IN THE NAIL SPACE
The ‘Male Manicure’
Some nail and beauty businesses advertise gender-specific ‘male manicure’ and ‘male pedicure’ options, under the belief that men will feel more comfortable attending services designed for them.
Peter Borg
Founder of Croydon-based salon, Queen B Luxury Nail and Beauty Lounge, Peter Borg, notes why he decided to include male-focused services on its treatment list. “A lot of salons still refuse men, so I wanted separate treatment options just for them,” he shares. “Each service is explained in detail and we highlight that it is ‘normal’ to look after hands and feet, and that grooming is not taboo.”
He shares the feedback from the treatments: “We have lots of five-star reviews from men, which not only proves that they feel comfortable, but shows others that the salon is a trustworthy environment. Whether coming in confident or nervous, they always leave feeling happy. We now have men who have become regulars, booking monthly visits.”
The salon has also hosted several male-only events, from stag parties to birthday celebrations, which were also well received. Peter continues: “Men get together, get pampered, catch up with each other and enjoy a beer.”
Avoid gendered language
“It’s important to have a welcoming environment, so salons should remove gendered signs like, ‘No Boys Allowed’ or ‘Girls’ Club’,” shares James Reeve-Shillito. “It’s also crucial to make sure all members of staff are on the same page about creating an inclusive space.”
Danny adds: “I think it’s important to remember we offer services to people, not genders. We should be showing that we’re inclusive, rather than just speaking about it.” James agrees, suggesting salons show work on all genders via social media platforms to clearly communicate with male clients that they are welcome.
TECH SPOTLIGHT
California-based nail tech, Andy Garcia Cocar, posted a video to TikTok showcasing his work, which went viral and reached over four million users. It was met with an influx of support from all genders in the comments section. One male user wrote: “He’s in the right business for sure.” Another wrote: “Keep doing what you’re doing bro, you’re amazing at this.” These comments joined the impressive 925,000+ likes the video received. Scan to watch Andy’s TikTok video
Societal acceptance & authenticity
“Male nail services are not as accepted as other types of men’s self-care, but they’re getting there,” believes James Reeve-Shillito. “We need the help of big brands, as once services are in the public eye daily, I believe we will see a real change.”
He continues: “We need continuous support, and not just for a one-off LGBTQ+Pride campaign. We need to see nail and beauty brands using men from different background in their adverts.”
Tan Morris-Tran notes the importance of authenticity. “For many businesses, being inclusive is a business strategy to broaden their market, which they cover by attempts at trying to prove they are inclusive. Therefore, for a business to show that it is truly inclusive, it’s important that a space is created that makes everyone feel genuinely welcome.”
The interiors of two Hammer & Nails ‘Grooming Studios For Guys’ in the USA.
Queen B Luxury Nail and Beauty Lounge, Croydon.
Interior aesthetic
When asked how to ensure a salon is welcoming and inclusive, Peter Borg suggests ditching the colour pink. His salon boasts a neutral colour palette, so that clients of all genders feel welcome and comfortable.
MALE NAIL SERVICES: what is being requested?
Scratch asked male nail techs what their male clients typically request…
James Reeve-Shillito
@nailinthecoffin_nailsbyjames
“It varies, but my male clients generally begin their nail journey with a natural-looking manicure, then venture into choosing brighter and more daring looks.”
Alex Philamond
@alexdidyournails
“I generally receive requests for a ‘maintenance manicure’. This includes an exfoliation of the hands, cuticle prep, nail shaping and skin polishing, with some clients also opting for a hyper-realistic matte or glossy varnish.”
Tan Morris-Tran
@mtnails_studio
“Most of my male clients request a ‘clean and tidy’ manicure with no colour, and a buff to shine the nails. For those who do seek colour, they tend to pick typically ‘masculine’ colours, such as black, grey and dark blues. I’ve also had men who choose L&P acrylic enhancements to prevent them from biting their nails.”
Sharon Baker
HOW TO: A MAINTENANCE MANICURE
Nail and beauty specialist & educator, Sharon Baker of @sharonbnails, Daventry, shares a step-by-step guide for pros whose clients request a maintenance-style manicure.
Famous Names Releaf Cuti-cal
£9.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Step 1: Apply a cuticle softener.
Apply Famous Names Releaf Cuti-cal to soften dead skin, making it easier to remove. It not only helps with cuticle care, but hydrates and heals dry or damaged skin around the nails. Reduce the length of the nail by using nail clippers, and file the free edge.
Famous Names Dadi’Oil
£16.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Step 2: Hydrate.
Apply and massage Famous Names Releaf Dadi’Oil around and over the nails, adding drops to the back of the hand. Next, apply Dadi’Lotion, massaging it into the nails, hands and fingers. These products are packed with oils including avocado and jojoba, which deeply penetrate the skin to lock in moisture and repair dryness or damage.
Artistic Nail Design 400/4000-grit Reflect Buffer
£1.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Step 3: Buff for a healthy shine.
Using the Artistic Nail Design 400/4000-grit Reflect Buffer, buff over the nail to smooth. This step will leave nails looking polished with a subtle, healthy shine.
Famous Names Releaf Finish
£8.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Step 4:
Lock in moisture.
Finish with a spritz of Releaf Finish Spray. This will seal in the hydration, ensuring long-lasting moisture and healing throughout the day.
The nails of Sharon’s male client before treatment.
After treatment.