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14 mins

NAIL STYLE

The art of extreme nail styling

Enter the world of fantasy, extreme & 3D nail design with REBECCA HITCHON, who quizzes expert pros on how to master the sophisticated art form

Nails by award-winning nail artist, Melinda Tamás.

The evolution of nail styling has unveiled fantastical creations that push the boundaries of technical skill and artistry. As product innovations have developed, the possibilities of nail design have expanded, and fantasy, extreme and 3D looks are now seen in a number of areas: from competitions to fashion shows and editorial pieces. From this, their influence extends, as they inspire mainstream salon trends.

But what benefits do these styles provide for nail professionals, and what practices need to be followed to achieve extreme nail success – including in the competition realm? We’ve sourced insight and inspiration from esteemed global nail artists to immerse you in the world of fantasy and extreme nail styling.

Fantasy, extreme & 3D nails: the benefits

Elena Popova

“These styles provide an opportunity for nail artists to grow professionally,” comments Elena Popova, award-winning nail artist, educator, competition coach & judge. “Proficiency in a variety of techniques is required, from working with mixed media to 3D sculpting and hand-painting. These skills are transferable to the salon environment.”

“Extreme nail works can boost a nail professional’s profile and get them noticed, because they have wow factor,” Elena continues. “For example, two years ago I organised exhibition project, Manicure As An Art, in my home country of Russia. It allowed nail artists to showcase their work to the general public and received a very positive reaction. Additionally, the extreme nail work of myself and students has been published in magazines across the world, including Scratch, and my work has been used as the campaign imagery for Nailympia Competitions 2025, which is a huge honour.”

The Nailympia Competitions 2025 global campaign imagery, courtesy of Elena Popova (nail stylist), Elena Gelberg (photographer), Varvara Tabutarova (make-up artist), Ksenia Golubeva (hair stylist) & Alina Philipskaya (model).
Mino Vo scooped 1st place in the Invent A Nail Shape category – Division 3 at Nailympia London 2023 for this unique creation.

“What I love most about extreme nail art styles is that they allow for limitless creativity,” notes Mino Vo, London-based, award-winning avant-garde nail artist, educator & product developer. “They help nail professionals stand out in the industry, because they demonstrate personal style. A nail artist’s work becomes recognisable when it presents a clear and unique point of view.”

Mino Vo

Beyond recognition, extreme nail works provide an artistic outlet that is rarely offered in the salon environment, notes Hazel Dixon, multi award-winning UK nail artist, educator & founder of HD Professional Nail Systems. “The opportunity for artistic expression helps to keep passion alive and prevent burnout,” she says. “It also allows pros to experiment with new techniques, tools and products, which boosts creativity and improves product understanding.”

Hazel Dixon
Hazel Dixon led a fantasy class for 2023 Nail Safari students, where she taught how to craft giraffe character, Melman, from the Madagascar film on nails.
Elena Maltseva

Elena Maltseva, champion nail artist, global educator & judge from Tunisia, adds: “Extreme and 3D nail creations demonstrate the capabilities of nail products and promote them to others, while showcasing a nail artist’s abilities and work to the world.”

A 3D mixed media look by Elena Maltseva.
These Venice-inspired Fantasy Complete Look nails were created by Max Braga for a showcase at Nailympia Germany 2025. “I researched images, historical references and visual inspirations, before designing 3D subjects, decorative elements and details capable of evoking Venetian magic,” says Max.

Conceptualising a design

“I believe that the hardest stage in the extreme nail process is the first: designing the shape. I also find this to be the most time-consuming step,” shares Mino Vo. “It can be hard to produce an original shape, as so many nail shapes have already been created. However, take your time as clean, precise work is what sets top nail artists apart in the industry.”

Max Braga

“When planning an extreme nail design on paper, study its shape and harmony to ensure it works before you start creating the look,” advises Max Braga, Entity global educator & competition judge from Italy. “Ensure the art is consistent across all 10 nails before bringing it to life.”

“Prior to a nail artist creating a sketch of a design, I recommend that they seek inspiration,” details Elena Popova. “As a competition trainer, I ask students to create a mood board of inspiration – even if they are entering a category with a theme. I encourage them to find a narrower theme within this, for example if the brief was ‘Japan’, someone might focus on the culture of geisha, another on the courage of the samurai and someone else on high tech. This also ensures that the emotions of the nail artist are felt in the work.”

An extreme nail poster by Melinda Tamás.

Checklist for success

Milena Mingozzi

✓ “Extreme nail artists should undertake advanced training in nail structure and balance,” shares Milena Mingozzi, Italian master nail educator, competition coach & judge. “This will allow them to understand the important differences between a classic long structure, like a stiletto, and an extreme structure that is three times the length of this. Knowledge of geometry and weight balance is vital.”

✓ “Extreme nail shapes present not only aesthetic challenges, but architectural ones, and require a deep understanding of nail structure, symmetry and angles,” notes Max Braga.

Sara Pinto

✓ “A strong foundation is key for extreme nail creation, and is achieved via correct nail preparation and precise form placement,” says Sara Pinto, nail product director at Andreia Professional. “Structure should be built gradually, with balance and apex considered for stability.”

✓ “High-quality nail products and tools are essential for a high-quality finish,” stresses Milena Mingozzi. Turn to page 58 to discover how to spot a high-quality product.

✓ “Work with thin layers of product,” advises Mino Vo. “Even if you think you are working thinly, work even thinner. This will save you a lot of time and energy when filing.”

✓ “Invest in practice, as extreme nail styling requires repetition – even small improvements build confidence and skill,” explains Sara Pinto. “Competitions and masterclasses also provide invaluable opportunities to practice and grow.”

Anastasia Totty

✓ “Patience, attention to detail and dedication are the most useful tools for anyone attempting extreme nail artistry,” notes Anastasia Totty, North America’s Star Nail Artist Season 1 champion & educator for LECHAT Nailcare Products.

✓ “Don’t fear extreme nail artistry. You can succeed, and a deep passion and love for the art form will help you do so,” says Milena Mingozzi.

✓ “Be patient and persistent,” comments Hazel Dixon. “Creating extreme and 3D nail art can be frustrating, so if it’s not going well, walk away, take a break and come back later with fresh eyes.”

✓ “Experimentation is necessary for creativity, so break the rules and try new, unusual ideas,” details Elena Maltseva. “Breaking traditional rules leads to innovative and unexpected discoveries.”

“Extreme nail works can boost a nail professional’s profile and get them noticed, because they have wow factor.”

Elena Popova

Stained glass effect nails by Elena Maltseva.
A 3D dragon sits atop a striking extreme nail shape by Mino Vo.
Madagscar -inspired 3D nails by Sara Pinto.
Anastasia Totty’s 3D extreme nail look for Challenge 6 of North America’s Star Nail Artist Season 1. It was sponsored by Glitterbels and had the theme: Unicorn Enchanted Forest.

Product & tool talk

Melinda Tamás

“When choosing which materials to use for an extreme nail work, consider the nail shape, design and model to ensure stability and workability,”

shares Melinda Tamás, multi award-winning Hungarian nail artist, who created one of the Nailympia Competitions campaign images for 2024. This was also used as one of Scratch’s 21st birthday covers in May last year.

“Knowledge of the materials and the ability to precisely control them is essential, so that a structure can be built accordingly,” she adds.

“Search for nail products with qualities suited to extreme styling,” notes Elena Popova. “To create the extreme structure, you will need strong building products that are easy to file and refine.”

Both Mino Vo and Anastasia Totty tell Scratch that they prefer to use the L&P acrylic system for extreme and 3D nail designs. “I believe that L&P acrylic offers extreme nail pros more possibilities and better strength,” Mino cites.

Anastasia adds: “I find L&P acrylic to be durable and set easily, and it does not break when you need to file and buff the nail shape. However, I have been working with 3D and hard gels recently to create lighter, more intricate pieces, and the products create amazing glossy finishes.”

Hazel Dixon advises: “Tools that extreme nail artists should have in their kits are nail forms or dual forms for building extreme lengths and intricate shapes; pinching tools for creating slick C-curves; high-precision brushes for sculpting, detailed line work and miniature art, and an E-file to refine extreme shapes, thin enhancements and add crisp edges.”

She continues: “Hard gel and L&P acrylic systems provide the strength needed for long or heavy designs; highly pigmented art gels or paints are suited to intricate freehand work, gradients and layered effects; L&P acrylic helps to sculpt 3D and textured details, and glitters, pigments and foils add depth, shine and artistic flair.”

“I created this form specifically for extreme nail artists,” shares Mino Vo. “Its large size, strength and structure lines make it unique and help artists to save time while working precisely.”

“These Andreia Professional products provide the strength required for long and highly detailed shapes,” notes Sara Pinto.

1 The Manicure Company E-file Pro 2.0 £247.18 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com
2 HD Pro Nails Art Gel in Fuchsia £9.50 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com
3 Halo Create Combo Brush: Long Fine Liner 11mm & 15mm £9.85 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk
4 Mino Vo Avant-garde Nail Forms (100pcs) £35 inc VAT www.minovolondon.com
5 Andreia Professional Hard Gel 2 In 1 High Viscosity in Clear £12.49 + VAT & Builder Acrylic Powder in Clear £8.99 + VAT www.andreiaprofessional.comwww.salon-services.com
6 Glitterbels Rainbow Glitter 3D Brush £9.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
7 HONA TrueSculpt Fibre Hard Gel in Nude £32 + VAT www.homeofnailart.com
8 Gel Junkie Nail File (100/180-grit) £1.05 inc VAT www.geljunkie.co.uk
9 The GelBottle Inc Nail Forms (320pcs) £22 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com
10 OPI GelColor Super Matte Top Coat £19.90 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com
11 Light Elegance Gel Paint in Primary Black £13.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk
12 CNDTM Perfect Color Sculpting Powder in Natural Buff £38.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
13 Serinity Flat Back Crystals Non Hotfix Ultimate Mix in Crystal Golden Shadow (500pcs) £82.55 + VAT www.bluestreakcrystals.com
14 Hara Mix – Mixing Spatula £12.99 + VAT www.astonandfincher.co.uk
15 Artistic Nail Design Sani-Tongs £7.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
16 Cuccio Ultra Kolinsky Pure Sable Acrylic Brush - Size 8 £15.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk
17 Gelish Master Pro-9 2 Piece Sculpting Brush £42.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk
18 NSI Pinching Tools in Purple, Silver & Unicorn from £9.95 + VAT each www.nsinails.co.uk >

Competition pointers

“If a nail artist wants to create an extreme work for a competition, I recommend they seek out a coach or mentor,” says Elena Popova. “This will help them reach their goals quicker, gain knowledge and techniques in a concentrated form, understand the competition criteria with insight from an experienced tech and receive the highest scores possible for their work.”

“Nail professionals should be aware that behind every extreme competition entry, there is a lot of practice and experimentation,” notes Melinda Tamás. “When a theme is set as the guideline for all participants, competitors’ goals should be to create the most spectacular, imaginative results, thinking of their looks as full concepts. The competition rules and scoresheets should be read thoroughly to prevent points being deducted.”

Mino Vo’s Fantasy Complete Look entry for Nailympia London 2024.
A ‘forest people’ creation by Milena Mingozzi for a Complete Fantasy Look category.
Melinda Tamás’ Fantasy Complete Look Division 3 entry into Nailympia London 2024, which won her a gold medal.

“Extreme nail shapes present not only aesthetic challenges, but architectural ones.”

Max Braga

Fantasy competition spotlight

By Anastasia Totty, North America’s Star Nail Artist Season 1 champion

“Fantasy Nails is my favourite competition category, and the one that inspires me most. Fantasy styles are the least restrictive in terms of size and art mediums, and you can let your imagination run wild. This is also one of the most challenging categories to judge.

My favourite North America’s Star Nail Artist brief was Challenge 5: Change & Transformation, sponsored by LECHAT Nailcare Products. It required five fantasy-style nails to be created, inspired by change. I crafted different symbols of strength and perseverance on each nail to represent my NASNA journey, and the look was featured on the August 2025 cover of Scratch.

“The process begins with the theme presented by the competition organisers. Once I think of an interesting representation of or twist on the theme, I sketch and write down my nail design ideas, imagining the piece as a whole and considering balance and visual interest.

“I sculpt the base of my design first, before adding colour and 3D elements. It is important to think about how the piece will be displayed to judges and presented in the competition arena. It should be durable and balanced, otherwise you may lose points if it breaks and portrays your skills negatively.

“At nail competitions, you win some and you lose some – it really depends on your creativity and competitors. Sometimes, it may seem that a judge’s decision is not fair, but if you take the time to analyse the work of fellow competitors, you’ll see that it can be the difference of a point that determines the winner. Their work may also inspire you and teach you something new, so take plenty of photos of it. However, if your submission is creative and neat, your chances of winning are much higher.

My entry into the To Stiletto & Beyond category at Nailympia San Antonio 2024. The theme was NASA.

“In my opinion, attempting the challenge and creating a beautiful nail result is worth far more than not competing at all. I learn from every extreme shape I create and my work gets better each time.

“Don’t be shy to ask for feedback from judges and other competitors. It can be difficult to hear negative comments about your work, but it’s the only way to grow and improve your skills.”

Keep up-to-date with North America’s Star Nail Artist Season 2 by following @scratchmagazine or visiting www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/nasna

Advice for beginners

Crafting extreme nail creations is hugely valuable and exciting for pros – but it can also be an overwhelming and challenging venture. So what measures should be considered by nail stylists who are interested in the art form but find it daunting?

Max Braga shares three steps to follow:

1. “Get inspired: browse books on art, architecture, design and fantasy to find visions that spark your imagination,” he says. “Ideas can arise from anywhere – even the most unexpected details.”

2. “Don’t be afraid to ask for help,” Max continues. “Seeking the support of industry professionals and participating in specialised courses can give you the right tools to express your creativity in a professional, precise and personal way.”

3. “Experiment, fail, then try again,” notes the nail artist. “Every mistake is part of the journey, and every attempt brings you a little closer to your artistic identity. The world of extreme nails isn’t just about technique; it’s about passion, dedication and the desire to tell a story – one nail at a time.”

“My advice for beginner extreme nail artists is to be patient and not try to learn everything at once,” says Melinda Tamás. “It is important to perfect your basic skills first, then gradually try extreme shapes and techniques. A lot of practice and experimentation is needed to build confidence, and mistakes are part of the learning process.”

Sara Pinto agrees, adding: “Take the process step by step. Start with one shape or technique and practice until you feel confident, before moving forward. Most importantly, remember that every nail expert started as a beginner.”

“I recommend completing a course with an educator that specialises in fantasy, extreme and 3D work, such as myself,” says Hazel Dixon. “Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy offers online and in-person courses for beginners through to advanced artists.”

Before enrolling on a course, Mino Vo shares an important consideration: “Do your research and only attend a class with proof of impressive student results.” Elena Maltseva agrees that research into an educator is crucial. “The trainer must have a positive reputation earned from years of industry work and achievements,” she says. “They must also constantly practice their skills and have a strong motivation for extreme nail work, which keeps them in professional shape.”

“Beyond training courses, take advantage of the priceless treasure that is social media,” suggests Elena Popova. “Many nail artists share their work and the process of creating extreme nail structures online, so be sure to watch and learn.”

Extreme nails by Sara Pinto.

“The opportunity for artistic expression helps to keep passion alive and prevent burnout.”

Hazel Dixon

An extreme nail poster by Elena Popova.
Chameleon character, Pascal from Tangled , in fantasy nail art form. This was the focus of Hazel Dixon’s 2024 Nail Safari class.

Scan for a step-by-step for this extreme French manicure by multi award-winning nail artist, educator & competition judge, Andreea Simona Ignat.

Scan to learn how to file an extreme nail shape, courtesy of master nail artist, educator & founder of the Kostka Nail System brand, Kostka Bojana.

This article appears in October 2025

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October 2025
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