NATURALNAILCARE
THE A-Zof natural nailcare
From product recommendations to anatomy & techniques, Scratch’s alphabet covers essential pointers for protecting & supporting the natural nail
JESS WATTS REPORTS
Whatever your nail specialism, one truth holds: the success of any service depends on a great foundation. Focus on the health of the natural nail, and you’re on your way to a flawless finish and happy client.
Use this A-Z guide to explore must-know nailcare products, practice pointers and common conditions…
A PEX
The natural nail apex is often minimal and generally sits about one-third of the way from the cuticle. As the highest point of the nail, it is the area most prone to pressure from any physical stress that nails come under (see ‘S’ for more information).
Understanding the natural apex is particularly valuable whenworking with clients who www.nsinails.co.uk experience frequent nail breaks or splits. Flatter or weaker nail plates lack the structural support needed to withstand daily pressure, making them more vulnerable to damage. This is where a supportive base coat, nail strengthener or builder gel can make a difference, with slightly thicker application at the stress point helping to redistribute pressure.
Roxi Builder Gel (various shades) from £9 + VAT
www.roxinails.co.uk
Utah nail artist, Sofía Wood of @nailartbysofia_, posted this before and after comparison on
Instagram
. It shows how a natural-looking apex has been built on a nail with a flat structure.
Instagram.com/nailartbysofia_
B ITTEN NAILS
Nail biting is a chronic condition that health professionals describe as ‘repetitive and compulsive in nature’. It is estimated that 20-30% of the general population can be classified as ‘nail biters’. While nail biting is most prevalent in children, the habit can continue into adulthood.
“Some clients may opt to wear gel polish, builder gel or L&P acrylic overlays while growing their natural nails,” says Scratch Stars Ultimate Natural Nail Specialist & OPI educator, Lucy Price. “However, for some, any service breakdown can trigger biting or picking. If a client is unable to attend appointments regularly, they should be recommended products to use at home, such as cuticle oil, nail strengthener and a 240-grit file to maintain length and avoid biteable areas of nail or skin.”
Cuccio Fight the Bite Top Coat £9.99 + VAT
www.cuccio.co.uk
OPI Nail Envy® Original Nail Strengthener £15.60 + VAT
uk.wella.professionalstore.com
Lucy Price
Glitterbels Nail Files in 240-grit (10pk) £5.99 inc VAT
www.glitterbels.com
Bitten nails at a consultation for a two-year treatment plan, carried out by Lucy Price.
CONSULTATION
The consultation is imperative, to ensure you have all the necessary information required to carry out a service in the client’s best interests. “It should cover common issues and contraindications, personal preferences, health/medication updates and any limitations,” shares Tanya Jeskins, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 2026.
“A consultation also upholds the nail pro’s insurance terms and conditions, and provides the opportunity to create a treatment plan to reach the client’s nail goals,” Tanya adds.
Many insurance policies require documented client consultations. “Your insurance would be invalid in the event of a claim without evidence of a thorough consultation,” says Michelle Brookes, Scratch Stars Educator of the Year 2022 and 2025, and finalist for 2026. “A branded consultation form looks professional, and a digital version allows you to easily access the document at any time.”
Tanya Jeskins
Michelle Brookes
DEHYDRATION
A common nail concern, which can lead to brittle, peeling, curled and cracked nail plates, is dehydration. Nail hydration suffers when the natural nail comes into contact with harsh chemicals, such as cleaning products, and is frequently exposed to water. Ageing, environmental changes and nutrient deficiencies can also make an impact.
Encouraging clients to apply cuticle oil daily is one of the most effective ways to combat dehydrated nails, while consistent application of a high-quality hand/foot cream supports the surrounding skin and nail folds. You should also encourage clients to wear protective gloves in cold weather and while cleaning.
Glitterbels Pineapple Cuticle Oil £9.99 inc VAT
www.glitterbels.com
Peacci Peach ManiPedi Cream £8.33 + VAT
www.thegelbottle.com ‘‘ Encouraging clients to apply cuticle oil daily is one of the most effective ways to combat dehydrated nails, while consistent application of a high-quality hand/foot cream supports the surrounding skin and nail folds. ‘
EPONYCHIUM
Hand and nail anatomy specialist & author of The ww.lightelegance.co.ukNail Unit – Essential Anatomy & Physiology for the Beauty Industry, Tracy Anne Shelverton, describes the eponychium as ‘a thin layer of specialised skin cells hidden underneath the proximal nail fold’. It is the living skin at the base of the nail that seals the proximal nail fold to the nail plate, depositing non-living cuticle tissue onto the nail plate as it grows.
While many techs trim the cuticle area to increase nail surface area and increase enhancement longevity, the eponychium must never be cut or torn. Online education platform,
NailKnowledge, warns that doing so ‘expose[s] the dermis beneath the keratinised skin frame and can lead to infections within the nail unit’.
Nail science expert, Doug Schoon, notes in his book, Nail Structure & Product Chemistry, Second Edition: “Each time you cut the eponychium, this will cause the living tissue to grow back thicker and harder. Instead of cutting, keep the eponychium softened with high-quality oil or lotion. This will restore the damaged skin to health and provide maximum protection.”
Tracy Anne Shelverton
Light Elegance Q&Lu Bamboo Lotion £11.95 + VAT
Doug Schoon
Saviour
TM Nail & Skin Restoring Oil £16.32 + VAT
www.saviournails.co.uk
Halo Citrus Crush Cuticle Oil from £4.95 + VAT
www.purenails.co.uk
FILING
Filing – whether manual or with an E-file – is standard practice for refining nail shape and prepping the nail plate. But in order to avoid damage, the correct tools and techniques matter.
“The most common natural nail concerns I am presented with are chips and breaks, usually cause by over-filing,” says Halo VIP, Hamyle Rana. “To prevent this, I avoid aggressive prep and only use fine-grit files.”
“The ideal grit for filing the natural nail is 180/240,” says Katie Clark, award-winning nail tech & founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education. “Establish a routine and follow it consistently across every nail, filing each area only once to avoid over-filing.”
Done correctly, filing should remove no more than five layers of the nail plate. As Doug Schoon adds: “When it comes to filing, less is best.”
Hamyle Rana
Katie Clark
The Manicure Company 180/240-grit Pro Files from £7.08 + VAT (5pk)
www.themanicurecompany.com
Gelish Go File Wireless Electric File in Blush Pink £99.99 + VAT
www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk
G ROWTH RATE
Natural nails usually grow between 0.5-1.2mm per week, depending on the individual, and each fingernail has a different growth rate. While NailKnowledge shares that ‘the rate at which your nails grow is largely determined by genetics, and there’s no surefire way to make them grow significantly faster’, promoting nail health via the following methods can create the perfect environment to encourage growth:
NSI Polish Nail Strengthener £3.65 + VAT
www.nsinails.co.uk
1. Stress avoidance. “Stress can negatively affect nail health by disrupting normal growth patterns,” says Lucy Price. “High stress levels may lead to conditions such as brittle nails, ridges or habits like nail biting, which can damage the nail plateand surrounding skin.” (See ‘S’ for more information.)
2. Hydration. “The nail plate requires moisture to remain flexible. Dehydrated nails are more prone to peeling and breaks, as they lose their elasticity,” Lucy notes. (See ‘D’.) 3. Nutrients. “Nails are made from keratin, which needs protein and biotin, and nail growth requires zinc for cell division,” Lucy advises. “Iron and B12 can also support the condition, shape and colour of natural nails.”
Peter Borg
Peter Borg, founder of Queen B Luxury Nail and Beauty Lounge in London – a Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year finalist 2026, shares: “Biotin, iron, zinc, protein and omega-3 all play a role in aiding nail growth, but supplements aren’t a quick fix. They only help if there’s a deficiency, so there should always be a focus on overall nail health.”
HANGNAILS
Defined by NailKnowledge as ‘a small spike of nail within the lateral nail folds or, more commonly, a torn piece of skin adjacent to a fingernail or toenail’, hangnails are common issues that can lead to snagging, inflammation and infection. They can form in a number of ways, including via aggressive filing techniques, dry skin, cold temperatures and harsh products. But with the right treatment, they can be kept at bay.
If done with particular care, hangnails can be trimmed using disinfected cuticle clippers. It is important to then encourage clients to frequently hydrate their nails and skin using cuticle oil and lotion.
Famous Names Dadi’Oil £7.45 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com Both Peter Borg and Kay Kirsop, Artistic Nail Design and Famous Names brand ambassador, recommend Famous Names’ Dadi’Oil. “It is a phenomenal product for clients wanting to see a big improvement in the health of their natural nails and surrounding skin,” says Kay, while Peter describes it as a ‘hero product’.
Kay Kirsop
Hara Professional The Nipper – Fine Cuticle Nipper £22.99 + VAT
www.astonandfincher.co.uk
The GelBottle Inc ProNip £29.90 + VAT
www.thegelbottle.com
INGROWN NAILS
“An ingrown nail is a condition where the nail pierces or grows into the skin, most commonly alongside the big toe,” says Katharin von Gavel, Footlogix founder & footcare expert.
Scratch columnist & footcare specialist, Denise Spragg, advises: “While minor cases may be safely worked around, inflamed or infected nails must be referred to a podiatrist.”
She adds that nail pros should ‘always cut toenails straight across and avoid aggressive shaping of the sidewalls’. Katharin agrees, adding: “If the nail is not infected and has not pierced through the skin, it can be filed with the appropriate implements.”
Katharin von Gavel Denise Spragg
Footlogix Cuticle Conditioning Lotion £12.45 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.co
Footlogix’s Cuticle Conditioner contains lavender oil: a natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory which helps heal, soften and soothe sore skin.
Katie Barnes x OPI Precision Nail Clippers £22.99 inc VAT
www.katiebarnesacademy.com
LUNULA
Lunula is the technical term for the half-moon shape that can be seen at the base of most natural nails. Katie Clark describes it as ‘the visible portion of the distal nail matrix that extends beyond the proximal nail fold’. “If you’re seeing changes to the shape or colour of the lunula on clients, along with other unusual symptoms, it is good practice to recommend that they visit their GP to check for an underlying health condition,” Katie advises. The lunula’s function extends beyond signalling nail health – it can also guide the perfect shape. Mirroring its curve when filing the free edge is widely regarded as the most flattering approach. However, not everyone has a visible lunula – in many cases it is hidden beneath the eponychium (see ‘E’) and proximal nail fold.
JOJOBA
To moisturise effectively, it is crucial to use cuticle oils containing ingredients that penetrate the top layers of the nail plate. Jojoba is a standout ingredient due to its small molecular structure. This allows it to deeply penetrate, and thus nourish, the nails and skin.
“Rich in vitamins E and B, jojoba helps to repair damaged collagen inside nail beds, improving strength and promoting healthy nail growth,” NailKnowledge reveals. “It also aids in the absorption of other ingredients, making it an excellent carrier oil for nailcare products.”
Grace Evans, marketing executive at HONA, says: “When it comes to natural nailcare, the surrounding skin and cuticle area are just as important as the nail itself. HONA Cuticle Oils are formulated with ingredients including jojoba to moisturise, condition and protect.”
HONA Nail & Cuticle Oil Dropper £12 + VAT
www.homeofnailart.com
Grace Evans
HD Professional Nail Systems Satsuma Nail & Cuticle Oil from £8.99 + VAT
www.hazeldixonnails.com
MYTHS
“One of the most misunderstood aspects of natural nail health is the notion that nails need to ‘breathe’,” says Peter Borg. “They don’t. Nails are made from keratin and can’t take in oxygen from the air.”
Lucy Price concurs: “The idea that nails need to be left bare for periods of time is a common misconception. In reality, the nail receives nutrients and oxygen from the bloodstream via the nail bed, not from the air.”
Jaz Moger
Natural nail specialist & owner of PAINT. The Salon in Sussex, Jaz Moger, adds: “Natural nails don’t require breaks from products in order to stay healthy. Healthy nails are the result of correct application and removal, plus good aftercare.”
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NAIL CURVING
Curved or hooked nails are the result of downward bending of the natural nail, creating a claw-like appearance. This tends to present issues as the nail grows longer, and can be hereditary or caused by trauma.
Hooked nails before and after treatment by Lea Skerlak.
Lea Skerlak
Netherlands-based nail artist, Lea Skerlak of @nailsbylea_nails, explains on Instagram that ‘with the right product and the right structure, this can be corrected’. She states: “By carefully placing the apex and restoring the balance of the nail, the downward curve is corrected. The result: a straighter and more elegant look.”
Fareham nail tech & educator, Erin Searle, has provided an eight-step tutorial for fixing hooked natural nails. Scan to view.
PARONYCHIA
Paronychia is an infection in the nail area, usually caused by bacteria entering cuts or broken skin. Symptoms include redness, swelling, warm skin, pain and pus.
“Paronychia is a bacterial infection that can appear similar to contact dermatitis – both of which cause swelling around the nail folds,” says Lucy Price. “However, paronychia is usually painful, whereas dermatitis is more likely to present as itchy.”
Lucy reveals that paronychia is localised, and a reaction often affects multiple, if not all, nails. Clients showing symptoms should be referred to a medical professional for diagnosis, who may prescribe antibiotics or antifungal medication.
QUALITY TOOLS
“It is important to have a toolkit that allows you to work on all nail and skin types,” notes Lucy Price. “My favourite tools are the Katie Barnes Tool Range Precision Perfector and Curved Cuticle Scissors.” Lucy also recommends extra fine and fine E-file flame bits for combination prep, as well as 240-grit nail files.
Katie Barnes Tool Range Curved Cuticle Scissors £39.99 inc VAT
www.katiebarnesacademy.com
The Nail Lab The Venice Cuticle Pusher £22.50 + VAT
www.tnluk.co.uk
Hara Professional E-File 240-grit Fine Sanding Bands (box of 100) £4.99 + VAT
www.astonandfincher.co.uk
PersoNAILity The Combo Prep Tool £36 inc VAT
www.personaility.co.uk This dual-ended cuticle tool features a loop to ‘easily and effortlessly remove skin build-up from the nail plate’, and a slanted end to ‘open the peripheral nail fold and detach it from the nail plate’.
Light Elegance Itty Bitty Diamond Z-bit £19.95 + VAT
www.lightelegance.co.uk This E-file bit has a 3/32” shank and ‘lightly preps the nail surface, while gently removing cuticle tissue from the nail plate’.
ONYCHOLYSIS
Onycholysis is the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed. This creates a cavity where infectious microorganisms can grow. The nail will try to protect itself by producing extra keratin and forming hardened skin in the exposed area. Tracy Anne Shelverton shares that the condition ‘is caused by the nail bed responding to an irritation, allergen or mechanical damage’. Excessive heat, aggressive filing, improper enhancement structure and existing nail conditions can also trigger onycholysis. “The condition must be treated prior to offering cosmetic nail services,” says Lucy Price. “If you notice separation, it is important to stop the service and recommend that your clients seeks advice from a medical professional.”
To prevent onycholysis, Tracy Anne Shelverton advises techs to:
1. Be gentle when cleaning under the free edge.
2. Keep tools sterilised and avoid damaging the hyponychium.
3. Reduce heat spikes by using a matching gel system and lamp, and not applying thick layers of product.
4. Avoid putting excessive pressure on the nail.
RECONSTRUCTION
The appearance of damaged or broken natural nails can lower confidence. However, once cleared by a healthcare professional, nails can be aesthetically ‘restored’ via reconstruction: a particularly common practice during pedicures.
Brand development executive at Pure Nails & Scratch Stars Builder Gel and Pedicurist of the Year finalist 2026, Michaela Phillips, recommends Halo Rebuild Pedicure Gel. “It is specifically formulated for toenails and delivers strong, natural-looking results, while allowing the toes to move comfortably,” she says.
HD Professional Nail Systems offers the Cosmetics Reconstruction Course: accredited training that teaches qualified nail pros how to reconstruct damaged or missing nails safely. The nail brand also produces Recon Gel – ‘a specialist gel designed for cosmetic reconstruction of the natural nails’. The product can be used on its own, with tips or forms.
Michaela Phillips
Halo Rebuild Toe Nail Repair Gel £22.95 + VAT
www.purenails.co.uk
HD Professional Nail Systems Build It! Pro Recon Gel £17.99 + VAT
www.hazeldixonnails.com
S TRESS
Two types of stress can affect natural nail health: emotional and physical. Lucy Price shares that anxiety and tension ‘may lead to conditions such as brittle nails, ridges or habits like nail biting, which can damage the nail plate and surrounding skin’. Secondly, too much physical stress on the nail plate can lead to conditions such as onycholysis (see ‘O’) and paronychia (see ‘P’).
“If enhancements are not maintained regularly, the grown-out product can put pressure on the natural nail and cause a weak structure, which is more prone to breaking and lifting,” says Katie Clark. Regular manicures, maintenance appointments, application of nail strengtheners and correct enhancement selection reduce nail plate stress.
UPKEEP
At-home upkeep is key to maintaining the health of natural nails. Though a professional nail treatment serves to support and protect the natural nail, its effects will only last if clients commit to an aftercare routine.
“At the end of a service, repeat and reinforce aftercare recommendations that are relevant to the client’s nail condition,” advises Marian Newman BEM. “Suggest retail products and further treatments that will support,and always remember to note aftercare and retail recommendations on the client’s record.”
To maintain nail health between treatments, encourage clients to hydrate nails and skin using cuticle oil and hand/foot creams, as well as wear gloves while cleaning and treat their nails like jewels – not tools.
Help clients protect their nails from damage by retailing handy tool, Keysie. It can be personalised with business branding and has a multitude of uses, including opening cans, parcels and keyrings, lifting picture frame flaps, finding the end of a roll of tape and peeling off stickers.
Marian Newman BEM
Famous Names ACESO Client Kit £25.45 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
Keysie from £23.25 inc VAT for 25+ units/RRP £3 per Keysie
www.keysieco.com
IB X
IBX is a two-part system designed to ‘toughen, repair and protect the natural nail’. Created by Famous Names, the treatment duo ‘works inside the nail, not on top’ to target weakness and support healthy growth. Its two products are IBX Strengthen and IBX Repair. The former works to internally toughen the natural nail, while the latter is designed to ‘improve nail plate integrity’, focusing on imperfections and weakness.
Famous Names IBX Treatment Duo Pack £45.95 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
TRAUMA
Nail trauma refers to any physical injury or damage to the nail unit. “It can be caused by various factors, such as impact, crushing, repetitive pressure or excessive force applied to the fingernails or toenails,” shares NailKnowledge. Trauma can lead to a variety of nail conditions including subungual haematomas (bleeding under the nail plate), nail splitting and long-term damage to the nail bed.
Chronic trauma refers to repeated injury to the nail unit from everyday habits such as tight shoes or sporting activities. This type of trauma can result in conditions such as thickened nails (onychogryphosis) and nail ridges (see ‘V’).
VERTICAL RIDGES
Vertical lines on nails, also known as onychorrhexis, are usually a natural sign of ageing caused by a reduction in cell turnover. However, in some cases, vertical nail ridges can be symptomatic of other issues such as nail trauma and nutrient deficiencies.
“These ridges occur longitudinally down the nail plate and usually affect only a few nails,” says Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2019 & CND™ education ambassador, Helen Ward. “Age-related ridges cannot be corrected and may worsen with time. Do not attempt to buff these ridges out; instead, use a product designed to camouflage them.”
A client of Lucy Price presenting vertical ridges before treatment.
Helen Ward
WHITE SPOTS
Discolouration of the nail plate – also known as leukonychia, most commonly presents as white spots or lines. According to book, Milady’s Art & Science of Nail Technology, the condition is typically caused by trauma to the nail matrix, including everyday knocks, nail biting and aggressive prep, though underlying health conditions and certain medications can also be responsible. White areas cannot be corrected, but they will grow out with the nail. It is safe to receive nail services and mask the marks with product. However, NailKnowledge recommends avoiding aggressive manicure techniques and prioritising warm treatments, such as hot paraffin and oil services.
YELLOWING
“Natural nail discolouration is a frequent issue, particularly yellowing or staining,” says Sara Pinto, nail product & academy director at Andreia Professional. “This can happen after prolonged wear of dark or highly pigmented nail shades, as well as because of lifestyle factors such as smoking.”
Sara advises that, though this is often a cosmetic concern rather than something more systemic, ‘it’s important for professionals to assess the nails carefully to determine if a condition appears unusual.”
Sara Pinto
Z
ERODAMAGE
Zero damage natural nailcare isn’t about a single technique or product, but rather a holistic approach to nail health – from using the right file grit and exercising caution with sharp tools, to informative aftercare advice and recognising when a client requires referral.