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12 mins

Into the extreme

Three nail artisans from across the globe share their extreme, fantasy & 3D nail creations with ALEX FOX & explore the place of these styles in the industry

Part 1

The realm of nail artistry has long transcended traditional manicures, evolving into a captivating form of creative expression that showcases remarkable quality and craftsmanship. Sculpting fantasy and three-dimensional (3D) artwork on nails is testament to this evolution, blending artistry, precision and innovation to create miniature masterpieces.

Each nail becomes a tiny canvas, where skilled artists meticulously shape and sculpt using liquid & powder or some UV gel systems, to bring fantastical designs to life. The process involves an intricate dance of technique and creativity, as the products are expertly layered and sculpted to form 3D elements that rise from the nail’s surface, adding depth and intrigue. Hours are spent at the nail desk planning each element, as the masterpiece tells a story inside a theme.

The artists behind 3D nail art require a keen eye for detail and unwavering commitment to perfection. They must possess a deep understanding of structure and form, to ensure that each tiny sculpture is not only aesthetically stunning, but structurally sound. The intricate details, from the delicate petals of a sculpted flower to the fine scales of a mythical dragon, are meticulously crafted with precision tools and steady hands.

Fantasy frontier

Fantasy themes open up a world of possibilities for nail artists. Enchanting landscapes, mythical creatures and whimsical designs come to life in vivid colour and intricate detail. Often delivered in nail competitions as the Fantasy Complete Look category, with hair, make-up and costume all given a stage to set off the nail centrepiece, the imaginative nature of fantasy art allows artists to push the boundaries of their creativity. This results in nail art that is not only beautiful, but awe-inspiring.

The secrets to extreme nail sculpting

By award-winning US nail artist, Guin Deadman-Littlefield

@nailsbyguin

Extreme nail art styles may not appeal to all clients, but those who desire them will be delighted to find a professional skilled in this area. Offering such unique services can create a loyal customer base, allowing you to charge premium prices, due to the limited availability of treatments.

Creating extreme nail styles presents an opportunity to challenge yourself, expand your skills and push your creativity. These styles can lead to professional growth and recognition in the nail art community.

Extreme nail designs are most commonly worn by celebrities and seen in music videos and on television. Mastering and perfecting these styles can open doors to working in the entertainment sector, where such bold and artistic nail designs are showcased and celebrated.

Beyond the visual appeal, these works of art are statement pieces that showcase the level of skill that the nail artist can wield. A long way from salon nails that are crafted daily, the world of 3D art takes salon skills to new heights to showcase an entirely new artist: one who elevates product application and takes imagination to extraordinary places. It’s where nail professionals can stretch their minds and skills and leave creative boundaries at the desk.

Sculpting fantasy and 3D artwork on nails is more than a trend; it is a celebration of skill, as it transforms a simple nail into a captivating piece of art, reflecting the amazing inner psyche of the nail stylist. Through this unique form of expression, nail artists continue to amaze and inspire, proving that even the smallest canvas can hold the grandest of dreams.

Style & form

The extreme nail process requires precision in form placement, which is crucial for achieving the desired look. Each shape has specific parameters that need to be met, to ensure the nail looks are flattering and correct. Additionally, precise filing techniques are necessary to create a sleek finished nail.

“Creating extreme nail styles presents an opportunity to challenge yourself, expand your skills and push your creativity.”

Crafting extreme nail shapes demands high-quality, thick nail forms that are long enough to sculpt the desired length. You will need to use strong products, such as a liquid & powder system or a hard gel designed to support long nails. Many hard gels are too flexible for the thin points that extreme shapes often hone. Ensuring the structural integrity and durability of extreme nail shapes requires proper form placement.

This helps to ensure that there is enough product in the apex and stress areas, without the nail appearing thick and bulky. Most extreme shapes require a deep C-curve for added strength.

One of the biggest challenges in working with extreme nail shapes is achieving correct form placement and symmetry. Many extreme shapes require the form to be angled upwards to create the required nail structure. Additionally, the lower sidewalls of many extreme shapes extend below the lateral fold lines, making it challenging to achieve symmetry between each side.

For aspiring nail technicians who want to specialise in these nail styles, I recommend taking a hands-on class with an experienced teacher. This educator should provide guidance and support: teaching the necessary techniques to create these intricate and bold nail designs effectively.

“Crafting extreme nail shapes demands high-quality, thick nail forms that are long enough to sculpt the desired length. You will need to use strong products, such as a liquid & powder system or a hard gel designed to support long nails.”

“Working with extreme nail shapes involves meticulous planning of the design and selection of the right materials.”

The art & craftsmanship of extreme nails & 3D nail art

By global master artist, Catherine Wong – Singapore

@catherinewongnailqnailart

Extreme nails and 3D nail art require an exceptional level of precision, product control and detailed workmanship. Given the small canvas of a nail, the focus should always be on achieving an elegant finish. The process demands a blend of technical skills and creativity, enabling nail professionals to push the boundaries of their art. This form of nail art not only elevates creativity, but extends mastery over various media and products. It’s akin to being a plastic surgeon for the fingernail, and those who excel in this field often gain significant recognition and the opportunity to conduct training sessions internationally.

Extreme nail art opportunities

Extreme nails offer a unique way to showcase personal creations and identities. These intricate designs can be applied to visuals for businesses, such as websites, salon displays, treatment menus and social media. Think of extreme nail styles as the couture fashion of the nail world. While practical fashion is necessary, couture represents a stronghold of artistic expression, free from commercial constraints.

Common venues for extreme nail styles

Extreme nail styles are often seen in prints, posters, header cards, fantasy nail art competitions, stages, fashion runways, movie sets and exhibitions. These designs make a bold statement, highlighting the possibility of creating wearable art on fingernails. In 2013, I had the privilege of showcasing my 3D nail art creations at the Nailed Exhibition by Dzine in Los Angeles, which celebrated the history of nail culture.

The creative process

Crafting fantastical nail shapes begins with lengthening the nails using forms, tips or both, and shaping them according to the desired theme. The intricate details are then carved out or built on the extended nails using various nail products (L&P acrylic, gel, silk and glue) and specialist art techniques (paint, 3D, marbling, embossing, foils, pigments and embellishments). The design is finished with tools such as brushes, files and E-files.

“Think of extreme nail styles as the couture fashion of the nail world. While practical fashion is necessary, couture represents a stronghold of artistic expression, free from commercial constraints.”

Essential materials & tools

Extreme nail styling requires various materials and tools, including forms, tips, moulds, cutters, liquid & powder, UV or LED gels, glue and nail brushes. In addition, airbrushes, nail paints, foils, pigments, E-files, nail files, buffers, top coats and embellishments, such as jewellery pins and crystals, are useful options to aid the creation of standout styles.

Structure & staying power

To ensure the structural integrity and durability of extreme nail shapes, there must be a balance between the 3D artwork and the overall composition, structure and length of the nails. Extreme nail shapes are not usually worn for long periods, and are often created separately and temporarily attached for showcase purposes, such as in competitions. Depending on the size and weight, these designs can be adhered with nail glue, acrylic or wire.

Common challenges

Working with extreme nail shapes involves meticulous planning of the design and selection of the right materials. It is a time-consuming process, but rewarding when the finished work is complete. Common challenges include applying product too thickly, ensuring precision in the final filing stage, and managing intricate details to achieve flawless product control and artwork.

Advice for aspiring nail artists

I recommend that all artists keen to try extreme styling should just go for it. You never know what can be achieved until you try. Sign up for classes with renowned mentors and champions in extreme nail styling and most importantly, have fun!

The steps to creating award-winning extreme nails

By award-winning Hungarian nail artist, Melinda Tamás

@tamasmela

In 2015, I stepped onto the floor of Nailympia for my first significant nail competition. I competed in L&P, Salon Nails, Gel Polish Manicure and various art categories. Each of my achievements holds a special place in my heart, as they a unique story. It was during the pandemic when I ventured into extreme nail art on a whim. I discovered a new passion and enrolled on courses with renowned international educators to learn and grow, albeit a bit later than I would have liked.

After my initial success in this field, my visibility skyrocketed. Judges and recognised competitors congratulated me, sending kind messages and comments. They shared my work, putting it in the spotlight, and the recognition made me incredibly happy. However, the real treasures for me are the new collaborations, relationships and friendships I’ve gained.

What do you, as a nail pro, get out of extreme nail styling? I’ve invested significantly in my development, and this style allows me to utilise my abilities to their potential. Recognising my weaknesses, I strive to learn and improve. Through this process, I acquire new skills and enhance my technique, creating something truly unique.

Anyone who steps out of their comfort zone and pushes their boundaries is brave. This practice not only fosters personal growth, but enhances professional skills. It transcends simply doing nails and becomes an expressive art form, where emotions and visions are shared.

What opportunities can the creation of extreme nail styles present? They are spectacular, drawing immediate attention. International press appearances and collaborations have brought me immense joy. My dream of having my work featured in famous nail magazines and inspiring others has come true. Representing brands in international competitions like Nailympia and NailOn Global, appearing on television and being interviewed, have all showcased the value of my art. These experiences have allowed my colleagues to get to know me better.

Where are extreme nail styles most commonly seen & why? These designs are not practical for daily wear, due to their complexity. However, small elements of their techniques can be applied. I enjoy creating cute designs for my clients, which I find is a relaxing process. Extreme nail creations are typically seen in competitions, magazines, catalogues and at fashion shows.

“It transcends simply doing nails and becomes an expressive art form, where emotions and visions are shared.”

What is the process involved in creating an extreme nail shape? For competitions, I start by reading the rules and score sheets.

I gather ideas and inspiration, focusing on shapes and designs during the planning process. Implementation follows, often requiring adjustments or redesigns. Planning with family, friends and clients brings help and joy, and their involvement makes the process special.

What materials & tools are essential for crafting extreme nail shapes? A lot of files are necessary, but the nail form by UK nail artist, Mino Vo, has been particularly helpful. I use various materials, including different types of art gels. The process is always complex and creative, involving careful selection and matching of materials to my vision.

How do you ensure the structural integrity of extreme nail shapes? I’ve learned various techniques from international star instructors. Structural stability depends on the length and shape of the nail.

I choose the technique based on the specific type of nail I am working on.

What are the most common challenges you face when crafting extreme nail shapes?

Creating interesting visuals often presents challenges during the implementation phase. Time management is also tricky, especially during busy educational periods and alongside salon work. Despite these challenges, the process is rewarding.

What advice would you give to aspiring nail techs who want to specialise in extreme nail styling?

Never be afraid of challenges and trying out new techniques. Creating extreme nail shapes requires creativity and precision. Regular participation in courses, along with perseverance and dedication, can lead to incredible achievements, making nail technicians exceptional in their profession.

You won a gold medal in the Extreme Nail Styling Poster category at Nailympia Mexico 2024. How many hours did you put into this work?

I always intend to track the hours, but get so engrossed in the work that I forget. The creation, as well as organising the photo shoot and post-production, was intense. In the final days before submission, I slept for only two hours per day, dedicating most of my time to the project. Overall, it took around one and a half months, but every minute was worth it.

“Creating extreme nail shapes requires creativity and precision. Regular participation in courses, along with perseverance and dedication, can lead to incredible achievements.”

TRY YOUR HAND AT EXTREME NAIL ART

Nailympia offers competitions worldwide to explore extreme, 3D and fantasy nail shaping. There are two locations left for 2024 in which you can showcase your 3D artistry:

Nailympia San Antonio – 15-16 September,