Into the extreme

Continue an exploration into the exciting world of extreme nail styling with award-winning nail artists

Part 2

Tnail art is enjoying a growth spurt, as more nail artists are using the niche to stretch their skills and explore their creativity. Nail competitions around the globe offer extreme styling categories, presenting opportunities for nail artists to showcase this style of work and grow their profiles.

The beauty of this specialism lies in the artistic freedom it affords. There are no boundaries to the artistic endeavour, and pros can use inventive techniques and unconventional media. Nail artists are liberated from their ‘daily nails’: able to refine their skills and deepen their understanding of structure, while experimenting with various art media and 3D ideas. The possibilities are endless, offering a creative liberty that blends wild ideas with advanced product knowledge.

Beyond the creative process, experimenting with different systems, brands and skills outside of a salon environment enables nail artists to develop new techniques and foster a signature nail style: one that is easily recognisable and can become a new revenue stream through education. As techniques develop, they are naturally integrated into salon work, enhancing product control and cultivating styles that impress clients and captivate fellow nail techs, judges and brands.

Read on, as award-winning nail artists share their favourite styles and admiration for extreme artistry…

MINO VO Multi-award winning Nailympia medallist & trophy champion

@minovolondon

Extreme nails represent the pinnacle of technical skill in nail artistry. Mastering the art form enhances your abilities in product control, filing and artistic expression, and affords opportunities for recognition and exposure. For me, extreme nails are a cornerstone of my career. I have written a course, titled Avant-Garde Nails, which teaches extreme and inventive nail techniques. It has allowed my work to be recognised and appreciated worldwide.

Many nail professionals have attempted extreme nails at least once, as it pushes them to be creative and express their imagination. These designs are popular on social media and in competitions, which I personally enjoy, as they offer a perfect balance between art and structure. Typically, extreme nail shapes are long stilettos with unique side designs. To shape these styles, I use the L&P acrylic system for strength. Over the years, I’ve developed unique nail forms for extreme nails, which are extra-long and strong, and feature lines that guide the artist to create extreme designs. To file nails quickly, I use the Mino Vo Metal Infinity File with removable 100-grit papers, and craft an enhancement with help from the Avant-Garde Acrylic Brush, available via www.minovolondon.com

My designs have grown increasingly complex, so to save time, I apply just enough product to minimise filing. While the creation process itself doesn’t take long, the hardest part is designing the nail: ensuring it’s perfectly balanced, innovative and has wow factor.

To those starting their extreme nail journey, I recommend beginning with straightforward designs, and increasing their complexity when you feel confident to do so. Perfect the basics before attempting more intricate styles, and always strive to be unique to stand out.

“For me, extreme nails are a cornerstone of my career.”

DANIELLE BRINDLEY Scratch Stars Polish & Paint Nail Artist & Mixed Media Artist of the Year 2024

@missbrinnynailartist

I find exploring inventive techniques, unconventional media and sculpting extreme shapes exhilarating. I love crafting 3D mixed media nail art, as it offers an artistic outlet and stimulates infinite creative ideas for me to pursue. Extreme nail art engages my mind with design, process and structure. It’s a non-conforming, impractical pursuit that I love, and is motivating and exciting.

The beauty of this specialist nail art is the ability to be artistically free, and explore and refine skills and techniques. This fosters a deeper understanding of shape, form and structure, and liberates from the practical and time constraints of typical salon nails.

Avant-garde nails can be adorned in a myriad of ways: both individually and in combination. For instance, 3D flowers might be paired with chrome finishes and hand-painted art, and enhanced with jewel embellishments and encapsulated designs. I’ve found the possibilities to be limitless.

By combining and mixing systems and brands (outside of a salon setting and not applied to models), art techniques can be adapted to achieve magical finishes. Extreme nail artists also develop new ways of working that can be taken, in part, back to the nail desk for client work. Experimentation and innovation lead to enhanced product control and great knowledge of materials and their science.

Context & tips

Extreme nail styles are commonly seen in competitions, photoshoots and on the covers of magazines, such as Scratch. While impractical for daily wear, due to their dramatic and sometimes hazardous nature, these nails shine in environments that encourage creativity. Techs can hone their unique styles and character through their work, giving clients an appreciation of the versatility and artistry on offer.

I approach the creation of extreme nail shapes with artistic intent, continually refining my skills through competitions and feedback. I begin by planning, sketching and creating mood boards, and create pieces that appear organic yet structured, complementing each finger with what I perceive as jewellery. The process involves trial, error and adaptation, focusing on symmetry, angles and refinement. Maintaining structural integrity requires an understanding of shape, architecture and material science, while proper curing, product ratios and strategically placed apexes ensure strength. Challenges include managing time, achieving symmetry, creating strong enhancements and innovating through design.

I encourage nail artists to embrace excitement and creativity, as specialising in extreme nail shapes enhances product knowledge and design skills. Seek training from experienced artists; I trained with Mino Vo at the Nail Safari education event, and his guidance was transformative.

“Experimentation and innovation lead to enhanced product control and great knowledge of materials and their science.”

KAYLEY CAIRNS Scratch Stars Ultimate Nail Stylist (2021, 2022 & 2024)

@nailykayley

Extreme and 3D nail enhancements are visually striking, and showcase artistry and skill that extends beyond basic salon styles. These designs can not only elevate a nail artist’s profile, but expand their following and customer base.

Sceptics often question the purpose of extreme nails, arguing that they are impractical and don’t align with typical client demands. However, mastering these intricate designs enhances your abilities in sculpting, product control, precision and creative problem-solving: skills that transfer seamlessly into salon work. Creating extreme styles, such as a detailed six-inch sculpture or a mini diorama across multiple nails, makes routine salon tasks much simpler in comparison.

Competition corner

Demonstrating your ability to create extreme nail art can open doors to brand partnerships, job opportunities and roles in judging and editorial work. My experience after winning Nailympia London’s division 3 Fantasy Nail Art competition illustrates this, as I received offers to educate for a company, try products and represent various brands.

Winning the Scratch Stars Nail Stylist of the Year 2024 award is directly linked to my confidence in extreme nail styling. Before entering my first Scratch Stars competition, I analysed past winners, noting their common themes. Competitors are required to use a variety of styles, media and 3D elements, with a strict time limit of one hour on the practical judging day. Observing that the most extreme designs often win, I aimed to create the most ambitious piece possible within that timeframe.

Extreme nail designs are popular in industry editorials and brand showcases. High-profile collaborations, such as those between The Blonds and CND™, highlight the potential of extreme nail art in fashion shows. I was lucky enough to work with designers, Vin + Omi, to create some of the most extreme styles of my career.

Nail art innovation

Creating extreme nail shapes involves a blend of planning and spontaneity. For instance, the flamingo nail I created for the Scratch Stars Nail Stylist of the Year competition 2024 started as a fleeting idea, which I initially captured through voice notes and sketches. A small-scale, quick sculpture helped me assess its feasibility, leading to a refined final design through continued analysis and improvement.

I work with flexible yet firm extreme nail forms, including those by Krista Paulitti, and various brush sizes for both large and precise sculpting tasks. Creative problem-solving is crucial, as demonstrated by my improvisation with a silicone straw to shape a flamingo’s neck for my Scratch Stars Awards 2024 design. Understanding product limitations and thinking outside the box are key to successful extreme nail art.

Maintaining the structural integrity of avant-garde nails requires knowledge of geometry, balance, C-curves, spines and apexes. While some design rules may be relaxed for artistic purposes, basic principles still apply. Extreme styles, often unsuitable for extended wear, can be supported with plinths for model comfort during photoshoots.

Embrace the excitement of extreme nail nail art, as it can elevate your career and open new avenues for creativity and professional growth.

“Understanding product limitations and thinking outside the box are key to successful extreme nail art.”

KATY POTTLE The World’s Star Nail Artist 2023

@katyp_nailartist

Extreme nail art is a fantastic way to grow your skills, learn new techniques and elevate your creativity and unique style. Entering your work into competitions can greatly enhance your profile, especially if you become a finalist or winner.

Crafting extreme nail styles opens up a world of opportunities, including features in publications, collaborations with brands, entering contests and participating in photoshoots. These styles are most often seen in fashion shows, editorial features and high-profile events, and are also popular in nail art competitions.

The process of extreme nail styling involves several meticulous steps. First, prep the natural nail by cleansing and shaping it, then apply a form to extend the nail. Using a high-quality brush and strong medium, sculpt the nail to the desired shape. Creating a template for your shape helps maintain consistency across all nails, and some designs may require product to be layered or built up to achieve the right structure and length. After curing (if using gel), or allowing L&P acrylic to set, refine the shape with precise filing. Complete the look with detailed art, colour and embellishments.

Quality nail forms are essential for creating extreme nail shapes. They must have a good paper-to-foil ratio for moulding purposes, yet be strong enough to hold the weight and length of the product. Focus on building a strong apex to evenly distribute pressure and prevent breaks. Apply the product in thin, even layers to avoid bulk, while maintaining sstrength. Reinforce stress areas, such as the free edge and sidewalls, to prevent chipping and splitting.

One of the most common challenges is maintaining consistency across all nails. The length and structure of extreme shapes can make them more prone to breaking, if not built correctly. Creating a template of your design can help with this. Start by mastering the basics of nail structure, and gradually move to more extreme shapes. Don’t be afraid to experiment to find your unique style.

“Extreme nail art is a fantastic way to grow your skills, learn new techniques and elevate your creativity and unique style.”

KAMILA BOROWIEC Scratch Stars Social Media Star of the Year 2024 & World’s Star Nail Artist 2023 runner-up

@glamliciousnails

Extreme nail shapes stimulate creativity, and challenge nail stylists to craft designs that seem impossible. They allow experimentation with multiple media and techniques, showcasing creativity and artistic talent.

One of the best ways to leverage this artistic skill is by entering national and international nail competitions that focus on creativity and technical capabilities. Participating in, or winning, these competitions can significantly boost your reputation and credibility in the industry. Unique and outstanding designs can attract media attention, leading to features in beauty magazines, podcasts, blogs or even TV shows, while beauty brands may notice your work and seek collaborations, sponsorships or ambassador roles.

Extreme shapes are very shareable on social media, and posting these designs can boost your online presence and engagement figures. Offering extreme nail shapes can attract a diverse client base, including fashion influencers, celebrities and individuals who require unique nails for special events, allowing you to charge a premium price. Additionally, the satisfaction and sense of achievement it brings will boost your confidence and motivation.

Extreme shapes are crucial in fashion, entertainment, social media and the beauty industry to make a statement. They push the boundaries of traditional beauty standards and are loved by those who wish to differentiate themselves from mainstream styles, as well as by nail techs looking to expand their skills and create unique pieces of art.

Products & techniques

The sculpting of extreme nails requires meticulous attention to detail and planning. Before starting, familiarise yourself with the rules of any competition or brief, as there may be limitations or specific requirements. Discuss the desired length, theme and size of the nails with clients or collaborators, and ask for a mood board if necessary. Sketch your designs with as many details as possible, including gems, painted elements or 3D additions, to visualise the complete look. Creating a smaller scale prototype can help, to ensure that all elements fit together, although it’s not always necessary. Let your creativity take over and enjoy the process.

Extreme nails present opportunities to use nail tips or sculpting forms, artistic paints, gel polishes and gel paints, as well as glitter, foils and other embellishments. Moulding gels or 3D gel can create dimension and realistic-looking pieces, and an airbrush is useful as it doesn’t add bulk to the nails. Various brushes, dotting tools, and an E-file and drill bits can be used to rectify any imperfections. A dust collector is crucial, and stock up on nail files with different grits, as well as buffers and essential liquids like alcohol, acetone and clean-up solution.

Once the basics are mastered, invest in advanced courses specifically focused on extreme nail shapes, and attend workshops or seminars to stay updated with trends. Regularly practice extreme nail styling, as perfection comes with repeated attempts and refinement. Invest in high-quality products for better results and longevity, then experiment with different materials, shapes and designs to understand how various products behave and find your preferred media. Explore trends, be innovative and push the boundaries of traditional nail art.

“Extreme shapes are very shareable on social media, and posting these designs can boost your online presence and engagement figures.”