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L&P Levels

Explore the transformative properties of the L&P acrylic system with LILLY DELMAGE, who gathers tops tips to aid your creations: from salon-friendly to fantasy

Are you ready to immerse yourself in the benefits of the liquid & powder (L&P) system? Or perhaps you’re poised to take your skills to the next level and experiment with extreme styles? With origins in dentistry, owing to the durable, mouldable properties of dental acrylic, L&P acrylic’s make-up allows you to sculpt both short and avant-garde creations. It has stood the test of time as an original enhancement system, and continues to position itself firmly on nail service menus.

While gel-based enhancement products have surged in popularity in the last decade or so, insights company, Transparency Market Research, has found that the acrylic powder market is still expected to rise at a compound annual growth rate of 6.6% between 2022 and 2031. It is expected to reach a value of $92.1 billion by the end of 2031.

Annie Pham

Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2024 finalist, Annie Pham of Maidstone, Kent, explains why she believes there will always be a demand, commenting: “L&P is a great system which, with enough practice, allows the creation of many styles of art, from salon-friendly 3D flowers to extreme, avant-garde and fantasy pieces.”

Tina Hallows

Fellow 2024 Scratch Stars Awards finalist, Tina Hallows, adds: “Various nail lengths and shapes can be created with L&P, so a huge range of client preferences can be catered to – whether they seek something subtle, or nails that stand out.”

Extreme nails crafted using L&P acrylic by Kirsty McDonough, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2024.

How does L&P work?

The liquid contains monomers and a catalyst, which when combined with the polymer beads and initiators in the powder, forms long polymer chains that create a bead. This can then be manipulated as desired until the product hardens.

“When choosing a monomer, you should consider the setting you will be in when applying the product,” suggests Kirsty McDonough Kirsty McDonough, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2024. “For a salon, I recommend a monomer with a normal setting speed. For competitions, a quick-setting monomer is preferable, due to time constraints in an arena.”

Annie Pham also notes the importance of correct product ratios: “This largely depends on the temperature of the environment you are working in. In a cold room, you’ll need to drain the liquid out of your bead and take your time to work with it. A warm environment means acrylic beads require more liquid, so you’ll need to work faster.”

Instagram.com/clawzdoneright

NSI Attraction Acrylic System Sampler Kit £14.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Different approaches and considerations are required for different L&P styles: salon, stiletto, competition, extreme and mixed media/fantasy. Read on to explore techniques, products and approaches best suited to your desired L&P style.

Nailchemy Medium Speed HEMA Free Liquid Monomer £5.80 + VAT & Genesis Coloured Acrylic in Mist £7.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Salon style

L&P enhancements are ideal for heavy-handed clients who seek strong, long-lasting nails of a practical length. Pink & white manicures – such as the classic French, are popular choices at the nail desk, owing to their natural-looking finishes, as acrylic powders can be custom blended to suit clients’ skin tones. Such nails can be created via the tip & overlay method or sculpting.

Glitterbels brand ambassador, @pexnails, creates a matte mani using the brand’s Core Powder in Honey Buff.

Instagram.com/pexnails

L&P nails with art by Kirsty McDonough.

STEP-BY-STEP: L&P acrylic French tip by Annie Pham

1. Prep the nail using a 240-grit file, then cleanse the nail plate.

2. Measure and cut the form to fit under the natural nail, making sure you place the form straight.

3. Apply cover pink acrylic to extend the nail bed, then file the smile line.

4. Apply the white acrylic and file the nail after the acrylic has set.

5. Buff the nail and apply top coat.

Time crunch

“Ensuring that clients are not seated for long periods of time at their L&P appointments boosts their satisfaction, and helps them to fit in a mani around their busy schedules,” comments Kirsty McDonough.

Kirsty’s time-saving tips:

1. Practice control and application. This helps to minimise the amount of time spent filing.

2. Use two or three smaller beads. This allows for greater product control and aids application at the apex of the nail, ensuring it isn’t too thin or requires debulking.

3. Use a monomer with a normal cure time. I recommend the HD Pro L&P system, as the Adhere Monomer has a cure time that’s ideal for salon application.

4. Use nail tips. Choose tips that are thin and lightweight, to give a refined look to your work.

Lecenté Long Coffin Press On Nail Tips £14.99 + VAT www.lecente.com

Pure Nails Natural ABS Tips £3.55 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

HD Pro Nails Adhere Monomer from £21.50 + VAT & Frosted Pink Colour Powder from £9.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

Salon struggles & solutions

“I often encounter challenges when sculpting nails on clients with a prominent hyponychium,” reveals Tina Hallows. “This is the skin under the free edge of the nail, and when it’s more pronounced, it can make using a sculpting form more difficult.” https://instagram.com/jessley.nailco

Tina shares how to accommodate this: “Carefully cut into the sculpting form to ensure it fits, without pressing against the hyponychium. When filing the natural nail down to fit the sculpted form, it is crucial to avoid filing too low in the middle section of the nail, where the hyponychium extends towards the nail plate. This area can be sensitive, and over-filing can lead to client discomfort.”

Halo Elite Nail Forms £6.99 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Tina recommends Halo Elite Nail Forms. “Whether a client has a high hyponychium, square or rounded nails, there’s an extra section that can be peeled and stuck onto the part that goes against the nail, so it fits well,” she says.

“I use the L&P system on clients who are nail biters,” Tina continues. “The strength of the acrylic acts as a protective barrier, allowing their natural nails to grow underneath without breaking.”

CND™ Odourless Sculpting Liquid £59.95 + VAT & Perfect Color Powder in Light Peachy Pink £38.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Enhance the salon experience with an odourless monomer. Opt for larger bottles to last longer, cut costs and reduce plastic waste.

Stiletto

The elegant stiletto, characterised by its sharp, long and dramatic shape, is a fan favourite for L&P techs, who enjoy experimenting with its length and adorning it with designs. Here, pros shed light on what to keep in mind when using the L&P system for stiletto shapes…

“I enjoy sculpting stiletto shapes to achieve sleek, sharp and pinched looks,” shares Kirsty McDonough. “I use forms made from a thick material to provide stability when tailoring and pinching – otherwise, forms may ripple, which can affect the shape of nails.” When working with a form, she advises:

• Angle the form so the sidewall matches up to the point where the end of the enhancement will be. This may differ depending on the nail length you wish to create.

• Drag each bead down the centre of the form to create a ‘bone’ for structure, and ensure the sidewalls are free from bulk.

• Work with small, wet beads, which help to create the sleek shape.

Purple and pink sparkly stiletto nails by Kirsty McDonough.

Mino Vo

HOW-TO: Sophisticated stiletto

Multi award-winning nail stylist, Mino Vo, shares how to create this pastel stiletto nail using L&P.

1. Fit a form for a stiletto shape and enhance the nail bed using L&P acrylic, creating a sharp smile line.

2. Use pink L&P acrylic to paint a swirling design onto the form, adding chrome powder and flakes to create a shimmering effect.

3. Cover the design in clear L&P acrylic.

4. Paint the walls of the shape using a baby pink shade.

5. Fill the gaps with L&P acrylic and place cling film on top to create a textured effect.

6. When set, remove the cling film and paint with marble ink.

7. Cover the nail in white acrylgel.

8. File and refine the nail.

9. Buff the nail and apply a gel polish top coat.

10. Add 3D flowers if desired, using L&P acrylic.

Scan the QR code to view the step-by-step images.

Glitterbels Pinched Pastel Glitter Acrylic Brush (size 14) £37.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

New Jersey-based nail pro, @yaris.nails, used a size 14 acrylic brush to craft this L&P stiletto manicure.

Instagram.com/yaris.nails

Glitterbels Glitter Acrylic Powder in Campfire Cutie £8.95 inc VAT & Hema Free Monomer £21 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Annie Pham reveals her go-to products for competitions: “I use Glitterbels Glitter and Colour Acrylic Powders when competing in Stiletto Nails categories, due to their rich pigments.”

The GelBottle Inc Nail Forms used to create a stiletto shape.

The GelBottle Inc Nail Forms £22 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

INK London Dappen Dish (Standard) 83p + VAT www.inknails.com

This stiletto manicure by Mariana Costirco claimed a first-place title at Nailympia London 2023.

Competition nails

Using the liquid & powder system in competitions invites several considerations: from rule requirements and time restraints, to specific techniques and finding appropriate models. Competition maestros share their tips…

Before competing

“I always take time to review the work of past winners to get a sense of what judges look for,” shares Tina Hallows. “I also practice as much as possible to develop a method that works quickly and efficiently, due to time limits.”

Model mission

For L&P nail competitions, you will usually require a model – although some contests may permit you to work on your own nails. Sourcing a patient candidate with long nail beds, slender fingers and hydrated skin can support your success in competition arenas.

Kirsty McDonough’s hand model for the Scratch Stars judging day 2024.

“Don’t choose a model with arched or domed nails with high hyponychiums, as these types of natural nails are not suited to competition nails, and won’t help you achieve the desired finish,” shares Kirsty McDonough. Instead, look for a model with healthy natural nails, well-kept cuticles and long nail beds, and start tending to their nails with regular manicures in the run-up to the competition. Additionally, those with steady hands will increase the ease of intricate work, and symmetrical nail sizes are ideal for uniform designs.

Vuong Ho’s creation for the Stiletto Nails competition at Nailympia Orlando 2023.

Belinda Price

“Make sure you choose a model who can keep you calm during the competition,” suggests OPI UK&I education manager, Belinda Price.

During a competition

Tina Hallows shares her typical routine at L&P French competitions:

1. I apply all nail forms, followed by a very thin layer of clear acrylic to extend the nail to the desired length and shape. This layer will be so thin that it can still move slightly, so there’s no need to pinch at this point.
2. I create the extended nail bed and file it to shape, ensuring a crisp smile line and perfect point at the sidewalls.
3. I apply the white acrylic to the competition’s ratio requirements.
4. I focus on making sure the C-curve is at 50%. To achieve this, I use a pincher or C-curve rods, which are available in different sizes to fit various nails.
5. I carefully file the nails into shape, checking from all angles to ensure the structure is correct, with a well-placed apex, and the surface is smooth from buffing.

Lena Kurach Kozlowska created this French manicure in the L&P Acrylic Sculpture category at Nailympia Orlando 2023.

C-Curve considerations

Kirsty McDonough says: “When creating a competition French-style nail, it must always be square in shape with a 30 to 50% C-curve, depending on the rules of the competition.”

Tina Hallows adds: “For a deep C-curve, I use a nail pincher just before the acrylic sets, once it’s no longer sticky. This tool helps to create a more pronounced C-curve, which not only looks great, but also makes the nail stronger.”

Extreme styles

Extreme nails are characterised by exaggerated lengths and shapes, requiring meticulous planning of composition, structure and length. When applied correctly, L&P can withstand pressure from long lengths, and offers a malleable formula for advanced sculpting.

Kirsty McDonough explains: “I love using L&P to create extreme lengths, because you can keep the product thin and file it with less risk of it breaking, as you would with a hard gel or acrygel.”

Planning is key

“A big mistake nail technicians make when creating extreme shapes is not measuring and planning designs,” Kirsty continues. “I sketch out my plan onto a form first, and measure each section to be identical, allowing me to apply the product effortlessly and accurately. This helps keep the product thin, leading to minimal filing, and means I can see how the overall look will come together.”

Kassie Payne Nail Art Planner £12 inc VAT www.kassiepayne.co.uk

An extreme nail design created by multi award-winning nail artist, Mino Vo.

Mino Vo Avant-Garde Nail Forms (100pcs) £35 inc VAT www.minovolondon.com

Nails by Krista Paulitti.

Esteemed nail artist, Krista Paulitti, is renowned for her extreme nail shapes. In 2018, she created her own range of extreme nail forms: The KP Special Super Size Extreme Nail Form Edition3©, using Swiss Paper Technology. She comments: “The KP Special Super Size Extreme Nailform Edition3© is the most important part of extreme nail creation. The patented technology is the base of the entire structure and contains three layers that must be perfectly aligned. Any misalignment can ruin the work you invest long hours into. This precise fit of all layers is tested, so that each form is of the highest possible quality.”

Krista Paulitti forms and products are available via www.kristapaulitti.com

Gelish Prohesion Nail Sculpting Liquid £19.99 + VAT & Xpress Dip N Brush Powder in Artwork in Progress £19.95 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Nail design by Scratch Stars Awards winner 2024, Kamila Borowiec.

Gelish Pro 9 Sculpting Brush £49.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Fantastical styles

Creative and challenging, the only limit to fantasy nail designs is your imagination, as L&P can work alongside various other media to support the execution of show-stopping results. Fantasy and mixed media nails are not designed for everyday wear, so the traditional rules of the salon environment can be broken, and nail artisans can push the boundaries of their skills.

Fantasy and mixed media designs typically feature a number of materials, media and embellishments. The L&P acrylic system can be useful in the creation of such 3D elements, while also providing a sturdy foundation for dramatic artwork. “L&P can add texture and bring a fantasy piece to life, providing strength for 3D work and realism to figures and flowers,” shares Kirsty McDonough.

Scratch Stars Mixed Media Artist of the Year 2024, Danielle Brindley, created this standout manicure for The World’s Star Nail Artist competition, aiming to raise awareness for people with disabilities. Scan to see how she created the sunflower design

Acrylic orchid nails Ilona Kricka.

Ilona Kricka

TECH SPOTLIGHT

This orchid-inspired manicure by Scratch Stars Mixed Media Artist of the Year finalist 2024, Ilona Kricka, took over two months to create. “I had to individually mould the acrylic to form each petal,” she shares. “I then bonded the parts together individually, like pieces to a puzzle.”