L&P acrylic enhancements by Kylea Wherry,
Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year
2025 & finalist for 2026.
The two-part L&P (liquid & powder) system is favoured by many for creating hard, durable nail enhancements. According to education platform, NailKnowledge, the liquid component ‘contains a blend of monomers and a catalyst, while the powder part contains polymer beads coated in an initiator, often with a colour pigment’.
When the two parts are combined and exposed to heat energy from the air and nail plate, the polymerisation process begins. The liquid monomers and powder polymers bond together, creating tangled polymer chains that form a tough acrylic nail coating.
Praised for its versatility, the L&P system can be used for a variety of nail needs – from salon styles to show-stopping competition designs. In this article, Scratch highlights key considerations to help you master the popular system.
DID YOU KNOW?
L&P acrylic nails – as we know them today – originated in the 1950s when dentist, Dr. Frederick Slack, accidentally discovered that dental acrylic could be used to repair broken nails.
THE FOUNDATIONS Before we dive into the different uses of the L&P system, it is crucial to nail the basics. Let’s explore key points to note…
Ratios & temperature
“The liquid to powder ratio is vital to master,” says Justyna Pryke, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year finalist 2025 & 2026. “It
Justyna Pryke controls how the acrylic behaves and sets, plus the appearance and durability of the finished nail style. If the ratio is incorrect, the product will be extremely difficult to work with.”
“The perfect acrylic bead is a smooth, round, velvety ball that holds its shape,” comments Kirsty McDonough, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the
Kirsty McDonough
Year 2024 & finalist for 2026. “When pressed, it should feel slightly gel-like and require minimal manipulation to create structure. It should stay exactly where you place it, allowing you to guide it with control.”
Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year finalist 2026 & HD Professional Nail Systems ambassador, Ruth Green, notes the importance of temperature when
Ruth Green working with the L&P system, as high temperatures can speed up polymerisation and cooler temperatures can prevent a reaction. “Considering the temperature in your nail space is so important,” she says. “Before you begin working, pick up a few acrylic beads to see how they respond to the climate.”
Practice makes perfect
“The most common L&P mistake I see is nail techs working too wet and having to chase the product,”
Sarah Thompson says Sarah Thompson,
Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year finalist 2026 & NSI educator.
Kirsty McDonough agrees, adding: “Poor product control often leads to flooded sidewalls and cuticles, and incorrect structure. Mastering bead consistency is key to clean application and strong results.”
Ruth Green offers advice: “Repeatedly practice picking up an acrylic bead and placing it on a piece of paper. You want it to hold its shape, but still be mouldable.”
Rocksta Nails Bead Practice Sheet £4 inc VAT www.rockstanails.com
FORMS vs TIPS
When it comes to L&P application, there is an important structural choice to make: will you use forms or tips? Both techniques have their benefits, and Justyna Pryke suggests: “Don’t be rigid about your choices. If you only ever use one method, you’ll face limitations. The strongest techs know when to sculpt with forms and when to apply tips based on clients’ nail types.”
Forms
NailKnowledge notes that nail forms are ‘adhesive strips or reusable plastic forms that attach to the finger to help shape and extend the natural nail’. They are placed under the free edge of the natural nail, helping to guide the application of product.
Brush care
Your acrylic brush is an essential tool, so requires appropriate care. Kirsty McDonough says: “A well-maintained brush makes a huge difference in precision and finish quality.”
“It’s important to clean your acrylic brush after every use,” shares Justyna Pryke. “Monomer is your best friend for maintenance – but only when used correctly. Lightly rinse and wipe your brush, as over-soaking dries the bristles and breaks down the structure of the hairs over time.”
Artistic Nail Design #10 Oval Crystal Kolinsky Brush £40.95 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
Kirsty McDonough adds: “I always clean my acrylic brush using pure monomer and tissue. Never use acetone, as it dries out the brush.”
Correct tool storage is also essential. Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2025 & finalist for 2026, Kylea Wherry, advises: “Store acrylic brushes flat or pointing downwards
– never facing up. If stored like this, any monomer within the brushes will run into the brush ferrule and cause rusting.”
Kylea Wherry
Glitterbels Pinched Pastel Glitter Acrylic Brush in size 10 £29.99 inc VAT
www.glitterbels.com
Gelish Master Pro-9 2pc Sculpting Brush £42.99 + VAT
www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk
Andreia Professional All In 1 Nail Forms (500 pcs) £7.99 + VAT
www.andreiaprofessional.comwww.salon-services.com
The benefits of forms include endless customisation, natural-looking/thin product application and control of the structure of the extension – particularly the C-curve.
Katie Clark
There are many different types of forms, however Katie Clark, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education – Scratch Stars Social Media Star & Nail Team of the Year finalists for 2026, says: “It’s a good idea to purchase a universal form that can be tailored to different nail shapes. I have just two types of forms: one for extreme and one for salon shapes.”
Katie shares three things to consider when selecting a form:
1. “Look for a form with wide wings. This will allow you to join the form underneath the finger, without tapering the end and losing your sidewall structure.” 2. “Seek a form that is perforated for easy separation at the base – and always open it to ensure a correct fit.” 3. “When choosing a form for extreme shapes, opt for double-thick material that does not crease.”
“Forms give you full control. You’re building the nail from scratch, so you decide the structure, apex placement, lower arch and overall shape,” notes Justyna Pryke. “Forms are also very customisable to clients’ natural nails, helping to achieve sleek, long-lasting results when used correctly.”
“The most common pitfall when working with forms is poor fit – specifically, not tailoring forms to close gaps at the free edge, or angling them downwards rather than straight,” comments Sarah Thompson. “If a form’s tabs are overlapping on top of the finger, it is almost certainly pointing too far down.”
CND
™ Future Form Sculpting Forms (200 pcs) £39.95 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
Image courtesy of Katie Clark
PNT Crimped Size 10 Kolinsky Acrylic Nail Brush £22.99 inc VAT
www.precisionnailtechnology.co.uk
DID YOU KNOW? The metal sleeve or band that connects a brush head to the handle is called the ‘ferrule’.
Light Elegance Max Forms (300pcs) £28.95 + VAT
www.lightelegance.co.uk
The GelBottle Inc Nail Forms (320pcs) £22 + VAT
www.thegelbottle.com >>
Tips
Nail tips are defined by NailKnowledge as ‘pre-formed plastic or acrylic nail extensions that are glued to the natural nail to add length’. Where forms are removed after acrylic application, tips remain on the nail, providing a lasting base for L&P products.
Due to their pre-made quality, the benefits of nail tips include fast application, durability and consistency across all nails.
Nail tips are mainly categorised by coverage and shape. The main coverage options are:
• Full-well – boasts the largest contact point with the natural nail and thus the biggest surface area for adhesion.
• Half-well – offers less coverage on the natural nail and is quicker to blend.
• Well-less – can be applied anywhere on the nail plate and doesn’t require blending.
“In the salon, I primarily use tips for efficiency,” comments Kirsty McDonough. “Modern tips are often pre-pinched and available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, which helps speed up application while maintaining consistency.”
Justyna Pryke adds: “If a client has very short, bitten nails or struggles to hold a form securely, tips can be more practical.”
Image courtesy of Katie Clark
Image courtesy of Katie Clark
Kym Moody
Sizing success
“Nail tips should fit flush from sidewall to sidewall,” says HD Professional Nail Systems educator, Kym Moody. “If your client is in between sizes, always size up and customise the tips by filing them to fit.”
Glitterbels Extreme Coffin Tips (360pcs) £14.99 inc VAT
www.glitterbels.com
NSI DURA-Tips – 300pcs with Polybond Glue £17.95 + VAT
www.nsinails.co.uk
The Manicure Company Nail Tips in sizes 0-9 (No Well) – 500 pcs £15.80 + VAT
www.themanicurecompany.com
Katie Clark adds: “If there are any gaps at the sidewalls or you notice pressure on the nail plate when you lightly press on a tip, it is too small.”
Halo Jellie Brush On Glue UV/LED £9.99 + VAT
www.purenails.co.uk
Application pointers
“The main thing that changes when using forms or tips is the prep routine,” reveals Sarah Thompson. “When using forms, I dehydrate and prime the natural nail before applying the form and beads of acrylic. When using tips,
I dehydrate the natural nail, apply the tip, blend and dehydrate again. I then prime the natural nail before placing my beads.”
CND
™ Liquid Bond £5.45 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
‘‘ Modern tips are often pre-pinched and available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, which helps speed up application while maintaining consistency. ‘‘
L&P acrylic nails stand firm as a popular salon service – and for good reason. They offer strength, longevity and durability, suiting a wide range of client lifestyles.
“Salon L&P styles don’t need to be complicated designs, but they must prioritise control, balance and finish,” says Justyna Pryke. “The non-negotiables are a flawless cuticle area, correct structure, smooth finish and complete consistency.”
Kylea Wherry agrees, adding: “Good acrylic application is balanced, clean, precise and well-structured. This includes no dips, an apex that is positioned consistently across all nails and zero product touching the skin. Not achieving this can lead to premature service breakdown.”
Product perfection
Achieving polished L&P salon nails starts with product understanding. Selecting the right products for your working style – and learning the best ways in which to use them – contribute to reliable,
Glitterbels Core Acrylic Powder in Nude Blush Cover £12.99 inc VAT
www.glitterbels.com
controlled application.
“It’s not about using trendy products; you should choose products that give you control, consistency and predictable results every time,” says Justyna Pryke. “I love working with the Glitterbels L&P system, as it files easily and holds structure perfectly.” Kylea Wherry – who is Glitterbels’ Shropshire educator – agrees, stating: “My favourite acrylic powder is Glitterbels Core Powder in Nude Blush Cover.”
HD Professional Nail Systems Core Acrylic Powder in Silk Rose Cover Pink from £9.99 + VAT
www.hazeldixonnails.com
HD Professional Nail Systems Control Monomer £21.50 + VAT
www.hazeldixonnails.com
“My go-to products for L&P salon nails are from HD Professional Nail Systems,” shares Kirsty McDonough.
“I often use the brand’s Core Acrylic Powder in Silk Rose Cover Pink with the Control Monomer.”
Sarah Thompson says: “I love the versatility of NSI’s Attraction Powders, along with the workability of its entire acrylic system. I trust its products to deliver consistently every time.”
L&P salon nails by Kirsty McDonough.
Smooth finish
Filing is crucial to achieve a consistent, elegant finish. It refines the nail shape, smooths imperfections and creates a flawless foundation for colour or nail art.
Image courtesy of Katie Clark
When working close to the natural nail – such as when blending tips, you should use a file with a grit of 180 or higher to protect the nail plate. When refining L&P enhancements, a 150-grit file is recommended for efficient shaping without compromising control.
Sarah Thompson shares: “I use the same filing techniques on each nail: starting with a 100-grit file to remove bulk, 150-grit to further refine my shape, then 180-grit to tuck in the cuticle area and sidewalls.”
NSI Attraction Powder in Rose Blush from £11.95 + VAT
www.nsinails.co.uk
Scan to view a step-by-step of pink & white L&P acrylic application by award-winning nail pro, educator & judge, Andreea Simona Ignat:
Halo Elite Half-Moon Zebra File in 150/150-grit from £1.30 + VAT
www.purenails.co.uk
The Manicure Company 180/240-grit Pro Files (5pk) £7 + VAT
www.themanicurecompany.com
“Ensure you adopt a good filing pattern,” says Kym Moody. “This will make a massive difference to how even your nail looks are. Treat every nail the same by working in sections and perfecting one area across all nails, before moving on to another section.”
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EXTREME SHAPES
Extreme nail styling offers a window into the most showstopping side of L&P. From razor-sharp stilettos to sculptural butterfly edges, the durability and mouldability of the L&P acrylic system make it the perfect medium for creating awe-inspiring nail artistry.
Most commonly seen on competition floors and in editorial imagery (see this month’s front cover as an example), extreme nail shapes lend themselves to intricate, high-impact designs that push the boundaries of what is possible on fingertips.
Justyna Pryke shares that it was ‘creativity and precision’ that first drew her to the world of extreme nails. “They’re not just nails; they’re structure and engineering combined with art,” she comments. “I am intrigued by how far the L&P system can be pushed, while still maintaining balance, strength and elegance.”
Extreme L&P acrylic nails by Sarah Thompson.
However, with great drama comes great responsibility. Due to their complex, boundary-pushing structures, extreme shapes require a thorough understanding of nail anatomy, structural integrity and product behaviour to ensure the health of the natural nail is never compromised.
Structure
1. The apex “The first priority with extreme shapes is the balance of the apex and stress area,” shares Justyna Pryke. “The apex isn’t just decorative; it’s what prevents snapping.” Sarah Thompson agrees, adding: “To ensure structural integrity, focus on fitting the form at the right angle to allow for a suitable apex. Before applying L&P acrylic, I use a nail file or ruler to visualise where the apex will be.”
This
Instagram
post by Kia of @glambykkia highlights the importance of structure over bulk.
2. Thickness “Once the apex is refined, it’s important to control the thickness of product in each area of the nail,” Justyna advises. “Extreme shapes don’t need bulk everywhere; they require reinforcement at the stress points.”
3. Symmetry Justyna continues: “Symmetry is critical, especially for shapes like stiletto. Even a slight imbalance in sidewalls or angles can change how pressure travels through the nail.” She advises techs to ‘constantly check nails from all angles while building them’.
Image courtesy of Katie Clark
Education Due to its complexity, extreme nail styling should be honed with the help of experienced educators. It is crucial to receive comprehensive training on the techniques and theory that make a successful extreme nail.
“Before attending any courses, I tried to recreate an extreme shape and was clueless about what to do,” admits Sarah Thompson. “Once I had attended training, I began to understand how to achieve the shapes and structures I wanted to create. I couldn’t do this without the underpinning theory and visual demonstrations.”
Kylea Wherry adds: “If you want to branch out of your comfort zone with the acrylic system, I advise booking a course or attending education events like Nail Safari. Train with as many educators as you can.”
The GelBottle Inc ProCut Nail Extension Clippers £19.95 + VAT
www.thegelbottle.com
Nailchemy Extreme Length Sculpting Forms £7.79 inc VAT
www.nailchemy.co.uk
Katie Barnes 2 Way Nail File 150/180-grit (10pk) £17.99 inc VAT
www.katiebarnesacademy.com
An L&P design by Kirsty McDonough showcasing symmetry across all nails.
Light Elegance LEpro C Curve Pincher £10.95 + VAT
www.lightelegance.co.uk
Scan for a step-by-step guide to an extreme stiletto nail shape by award-winning educator, Dorota Palicka:
EFFECTS
The L&P system’s versatility is most evident in its nail art applications. Whether encapsulating dried flowers or sculpting 3D elements, L&P acrylic’s unique properties make it an ideal medium for expanding creative boundaries.
Scratch Stars Mixed Media Artist of the Year 2025 & finalist for 2026, Alice Nali, is highly attuned to the benefits of the L&P system. “I started using liquid & powder in mixed media work because it creates sharp, defined details,” she explains. “I previously
Alice Nali used acrygel, but found it sometimes moved during polymerisation and would flatten. I’ve since fallen in love with L&P.”
Alice Nali sculpted this 3D whale using the L&P system.
A Monopoly-themed mixed media creation by Alice Nali.
3D art
L&P acrylic lends itself to 3D nail art: from salon styles to architectural competition pieces. “I find acrylic very versatile for 3D work,” Alice Nali shares. “I enjoy using it for salon-friendly designs, such as practical, durable floral looks, but the system also suits extreme artistry.”
Managing the weight of 3D L&P elements is a key consideration. “When I need to create large 3D nail elements, I build a ‘skeleton’ using kitchen foil to keep the structure light. I then cover it with acrylic to shape the design,” Alice reveals. “When working on clients, I place 3D elements close to the base of the nails to help balance the weight.”
Alice’s most challenging mixed media project to date: a creation that won her a gold medal in the Fantasy Nails Complete Look category (Division 3) at Nailympia London 2025, featured sculpted L&P elements. “It showed me that there really are no limits when you combine technique with creativity,” she reflects.
Encapsulation
One of the most popular applications of the L&P system in mixed media work is encapsulation: a technique that seals glitters and other materials within clear acrylic. Opting for crystal-clear acrylic powder is crucial to prevent cloudiness and obscuration of encapsulated objects.
“When encapsulating elements with acrylic, there are a few important rules to follow,” Alice reveals. “Ensure you select a very clear product, use fresh monomer to avoid any residue from previous colours, and work with a single bead instead of multiple – to prevent shadows between layers.”
Gelish ProHesion Nail Sculpting Powder in Crystal Clear from £10.50 + VAT
www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk
Andreia Professional Builder Acrylic Powder in Clear from £6.99 + VAT
www.salon-services.comwww.andreiaprofessional.com
Artistic Nail Design Rock Hard L&P Nail Powder in VIP Clear £5.95 + VAT
www.sweetsquared.com
‘‘ Whether encapsulating dried flowers or sculpting 3D elements, L&P acrylic’s unique properties make it an ideal medium for expanding creative oundaries. ‘‘