6 mins
NAIL Nurture
Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023, LUCY PRICE-MARSHALL, shares common nail concerns & advice to improve their condition
The natural nail is the foundation of all nail services, and a healthy natural nail provides the perfect base for enhancements or colour application. Common nail conditions, such as brittle or peeling nails, can be nurtured with regular salon appointments and aftercare recommendations, and it’s important not to neglect the latter in order to support the health of the natural nail.
Healthy nails are less likely to chip, crack or lift, and in the winter months, nails can become brittle – so it’s imperative for clients to increase their application of cuticle oil and hand cream. Avocado oil, which features in OPI’s Pro Spa range, can penetrate the nail plate and hydrate the nail, increasing its flexibility.
What not to treat
Professionals should refer clients to their GP if there are changes in nail shape or thickness. Emerging ridges could be an indication of an underlying health condition, and fungal nails can be identified through discolouration, thickening, change of texture or brittleness. The skin can also become inflamed. Clients with fungal infections should not be treated, but referred to their GP for treatment.
Allergies can be identified through the appearance of the nail plate, splinter haemorrhages, onycholysis and inflamed skin. Clients with suspected allergies should be referred to their GP for allergy testing. Bacterial infections such as paronychia should be referred for treatment. These can be identified by redness, swelling, skin that is hot to touch and the presence of pus. Viral infections such as warts and verrucas should be referred to the client’s GP.
COMMON CONDITIONS
Brittle nails
What? The wetting and drying of the nail plate can cause brittleness, as can factors including age, medication and health conditions. Brittle nails can break or snap easily.
How to nurture: Treat the natural nails to a Pro Spa signature manicure to aid hydration. The avocado oil in the Pro Spa Sugar Scrub, Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream and Nail & Cuticle Oil penetrates the layers of the nail plate to support an increase in moisture. Clients should be encouraged to use the Cream and Cuticle Oil at home.
OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream £7.50 + VAT/RRP £13.90
Onycholysis
What? Onycholysis is the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed, and can be caused by trauma, allergies or infection.
How to nurture: Treating onycholysis should be done with care after investigating the cause. To treat onycholysis, remove excess nail length and encourage clients to use a file at home, to reduce length and avoid ‘catching’ the nails. A dry mini manicure service is recommended, with use of Repair Mode for days and Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil daily.
OPI 240-grit Edge File (48pk) £72 + VAT
Psoriasis
What? A chronic, systemic, non-contagious autoimmune disease. Psoriasis can cause pitting (small pinprick dimples) that can be seen on the nail plate, and is linked to psoriasis of the skin. It can be triggered by external factors and vary in severity, leading to other natural nail issues, such as trachonychia (a condition characterised by the excessively rough longitudinal ridges present on the nail plate, often seen on toenails) or onychorrhexis (longitudinal deep ridges, which can lead to splitting).
How to nurture: Nail plates that exhibit psoriatic pitting should experience an OPI Pro Spa manicure service. I recommend that clients wear Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine or GelColor and make maintenance appointments, while using Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil at home.
Hangnails
What? Any client can be affected by hangnails. They can be caused by cold temperatures, drying of the nail plate and overworking of the cuticle area and sidewall when prepping the nail, which can cause the nail plate to splinter.
OPI Pro Spa Moisture Whip Massage Cream £9.70 + VAT/RRP £18.90
How to nurture:
Treat hangnails with a luxury Pro Spa manicure. Use cuticle exfoliant and gently prep the nails after soaking and exfoliation.
Finish the manicure with Pro Spa Moisture Whip Massage Cream or Advanced Softening Gloves to hydrate skin, cuticles and the nail plate. Recommend that the client uses the Pro Spa gloves weekly and returns for a manicure every three weeks.
OPI Pro Spa Advanced Softening Gloves (12pk) £43.70 + VAT
Delamination
What? A dryness or minor trauma on the distal edge of the nail plate can cause the bonds between the layers to break, presenting delamination or ‘peeling nails’.
How to nurture: Gently remove nail length using the OPI 240-grit Nail File, apply OPI Repair Mode to the nail plate and prep the nail for OPI Nail Envy, which strengthens and protects. Clients should continue to use Nail Envy and Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil at home.
BEFORE
Natural nail progress over two months, using OPI’s Repair Mode, Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil and Nail Envy regularly.
AFTER
WHICH SYSTEM?
A guide to OPI systems and their suitability for each nail type.
Diamond Gel
Clients requiring additional length or strength would suit this 3-in-1 hard gel system, which can be used with a tip, to overlay or to sculpt. Diamond Gel is available in six natural-looking shades and offers around 21 days’ wear.
Training a student in OPI Diamond Gel application.
OPI Diamond Gel Warm Pink Builder+ (Passion) £54.18 + VAT
GelColor
OPI’s gel polish system, GelColor, offers long-lasting colour on nails, with 14 to 21 days’ of wear. Within the system, there are prescriptive base coats, as well as the Stay Strong Base Coat for nails that are oily, bendy or thin, and the Stay Classic Base Coat for dry to normal nails.
OPI GelColor in Sickeningly Sweet £19.90 + VAT
Infinite Shine
This formula is popular with clients who wish to remove colour at home. The lacquer offers up to 11 days’ wear and has a gel-like appearance. It’s great on toenails.
OPI Infinite Shine in Charge It To Their Room £8.90 + VAT/RRP £16.90
Repair Mode
This nail serum offers keratin repair to the natural nail, and is a versatile formula that can be used in conjunction with all systems. Repair Mode can be used at home on regrowth and is a one-step treatment for damaged nails.
OPI Repair Mode £18.90 + VAT/ RRP £29.90
Nail Lacquer
An ideal retail item, clients can use OPI Nail Lacquer at home or for a special occasion manicure, and remove with nail lacquer remover. It offers up to seven days’ wear.
OPI Nail Lacquer in Spring Break The Internet £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.90
Nail Envy
This can be used as a treatment in-salon or at home to enhance results. Nail Envy provides the natural nail with strength and is available in a variety of shades. Original Nail Envy can be used as a base coat.
OPI Nail Envy in Bubble Bath £14.90 + VAT/RRP £21.90
OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil £9.80 + VAT/ RRP £13.90
AFTERCARE ADVICE
Always advise your clients on how to take care of their nails between appointments, and recommend suitable products throughout their services. Educate them on how maintenance products will enhance the longevity and appearance of their manicures or pedicures, and direct them to your retail area to purchase appropriate products.
I recommend that clients use OPI’s Repair Mode on enhancement regrowth, or follow the Repair Mode regime by using it twice daily for six days, then once weekly. I retail OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil, suggesting its use twice daily. To enhance the appearance of the skin and cuticles, clients should use OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream daily.
Advise them that gloves should be worn when emerging hands in water, using detergents, cleaning or gardening. Nails should not be used as tools; consider retailing a Keysie to open cans or rethread keys.
OPI products are available via www.opi.com
/OPINailsUK
/opinailsuk