How to nurture the natural nail: AN A-Z GUIDE

Explore Scratch’s alphabet of natural nailcare concerns, products & expertise to elevate your offerings

A CESOTM

Famous Names has launched ACESO™, following three years of development. The four-step, natural nailcare system penetrates through the nail plate onto the nail bed and surrounding soft tissue, delivering targeted relief and healing support via natural bio-actives. It features Kick Start Soak to prepare, Step 1, Step 2 and Debrider, which helps the nail plate to reattach to the nail bed. Find out more about the system on page 66.

When the health of natural nails is maintained, not only do clients see the confidence-boosting benefits: with aesthetically pleasing nails and longer-lasting enhancements, but your role as a nail technician becomes much simpler.

“Healthy natural nails are the foundation of all nail services,” notes Lucy Price-Marshall, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023, finalist for 2024 & OPI educator. “Long-lasting services and client satisfaction is achieved by offering a bespoke approach to nail health via the consultation and aftercare recommendations.”

Brittle nails

“Brittle nails can be caused by many factors, including a deficiency, trauma, nail biting, lifestyle habits and medical conditions – for example people with thyroid problems, like myself, often suffer with weak, brittle nails,” reveals Yasmin Hodge of Gels by Yas, Wolverhampton. Opt for strengthening treatments to support the natural nail.

D elamination

“A common nail concern is dryness, where the nail lacks lustre and has a powdery surface. This can result in the layers peeling (delamination),” shares , founder of the Manicure + Pedicure by Mii natural nailcare line. “To prevent this, it is important to use a rich, conditioning cuticle oil daily, such as Nourish + Nurture Nail & Cuticle Oil by Mii. New nail is born at Susan Gerrard the cuticle stage, therefore it is important to protect that area. Nourish + Nurture Nail & Cuticle Oil is a hero product within our range, and promotes healthy nail growth using active ingredients: lemon oil and vitamins E and F.”

“Delamination can leave nails weak and is often a cause of service breakdown when applying nail coatings,” notes Tanya Jeskins. “It can be caused by age, medical causes, dehydration, trauma and exposure to day-to-day chemicals and products, for example when washing up and cleaning without gloves. It can be treated most effectively with tailored in-salon treatments, using flexible coatings to prevent further problems as well as nail strengthening products.”

Evaluation

A consultation allows you to evaluate the client’s natural nail condition, needs and desires. “This is the most important part of a nail service and will be referred to throughout the appointment, allowing you to tailor the treatment, make professional recommendations and ensure client satisfaction,” says Lucy Price-Marshall. “Via a consultation, you need to source client details such as contact information, updated medical details including allergies, previous nail services and experiences, client expectations and attain a signature.”

“I always ask each client about their job role,” adds Hannah Clayton. “For instance, one of my clients is a swimming instructor so spends over three hours per day in a pool. Therefore, I adapt her treatments to put in place all measures possible to prevent water getting underneath her chosen nail overlay. I also ask about hobbies, as this may affect the longevity of a treatment and change my homecare suggestions.”

Fire rings

These red, sensitive semi circles or grooves on the nail plate are often caused by over-filing. Via education platform, NailKnowledge, French educator, Kristie Jauvais, details filing mistakes that can lead to fire rings: using E-file bits at the wrong angle, low-quality E-file bits and filing at an incorrect speed. Two slow a speed can result in dragging and too fast a speed can lead to loss of control. Kristie Jauvais advises advises not to apply product on a nail if it has deep rings of fire – instead, allow the markings to naturally grow out.

Greenies

Pseudomonas, or ‘greenies’, present an infection that occurs when bacteria get trapped between the nail plate and an overlay, leading to yellow then green and, if left long enough, black discolouration of the nail. These bacteria thrive in moist environments, so a common cause is water getting trapped, but poor sanitisation is also a cause. If a client picks at their nails or uses glue to seal lifting, it can make the area worse.

“If enhancements have lifted, moisture can build up, creating an ideal place for the bacteria to grow,” notes Yasmine Hodge. “If you come across a greenie, remove all coatings using sterile products which you will immediately disinfect after, cut the nail short and wait for the infection to grow out, while recommending the daily use of cuticle oil.”

“Remember, you are not medically qualified to diagnose or treat, so if in doubt, refer to a medical professional.”

Hygiene

Stock up on sanitising products to elevate the hygiene standards of your natural nailcare treatments...

I BX

IBX is a two-part system from Famous Names, which penetrates the nail plate to strengthen from within. The system can be used in two ways: on its own to promote healthy and strong natural nails, or as an add-on to a manicure, pedicure or gel polish treatment, acting as a protective shield for the natural nail.

The system features clear, curable products. IBX Repair is first used to treat specific areas of damage or weakness. It is followed by IBX Strengthen, which fuses together the nail’s top layers to provide strength.

“My most popular salon service is the Famous Names IBX treatment, which promotes healthy growth and with regular use, repairs splitting and mild leukonychia (white discolouration on the nail), plus reduces ridges in the nail plate,” shares Tanya Jeskins.

“Always be polite and kind, letting clients know that you value them and that the health of their natural nails and skin is your priority.”

Jagged nails & cuticles

For nails and cuticles in need of maintenance and shaping, check out tools to support...

Keysie

Remind your clients that nails are jewels, not tools with super handy, nail-saving tool, Keysie. It can be used to complete tasks such as opening cans, parcels and keyrings, lifting picture frame flaps, finding the end of a roll of tape and peeling off stickers, preventing damage that these might cause to nails. Keysie also doubles up as a trolley token and is available in coloured and patterned plastic finishes and a metal finish, with businesses able to personalise the tool with their logos.

Find out more via www.keysieco.com

Luxury touch

Consider luxurious additions to elevate clients’ natural nailcare appointments...

Marketing

“I find that content showcasing beautiful prep and before and after shots of natural nails receives most online engagement, and other clients then book in to see similar results,” says Lucy Price-Marshall. “Being transparent in marketing about healthy natural nails requiring work from clients has helped, as clients arrive to appointments committed.”

Jessica Price agrees that taking an informative and transparent approach when marketing natural nail services is advantageous. “Educate your clients about the benefits of using natural nailcare products and how they contribute to overall nail health,” she advises. “Share tips and tricks on social media to speak to a wide audience and build trust.”

Passion is also key, adds Hannah Clayton, who comments: “Make it known to everyone who will listen about how much you love natural nails. Show the work involved in a natural nail success story, as people will enjoy seeing the progress.” Sharing your love for natural nails can be as simple as including this specialism as a key point in your social media bios, like Hannah whose Instagram title is ‘Hannah Beth | Natural Nail Specialist & Educator’.

Nail biting & picking

“A natural nail concern I’ve treated commonly is onychophagia, or nail biting,” reveals Lucy Price-Marshall. “This is a habit, which can be difficult to break and therefore requires work from the client and technician to achieve restorative results. It can cause soreness, risk of infection and onycholysis, due to clients biting the free edge of the nail, skin, cuticle and even the nail from the nail plate.

“Clients may need to identify nail biting triggers, such as stress or anxiety, and try to minimise them,” Lucy continues. “Enhancements can also be a helpful way to prevent biting, as some nail biters don’t bite their nails while wearing them. However, be cautious of clients biting off their enhancements, as this could cause further damage.”

“While enhancements are often sought after by nail biters looking to combat their habit, make sure that these clients are aware that this may not be possible until the nail plate is stronger and healthier,” adds Tanya Jeskins. “To help nail biters, offer a plan of treatments to strengthen and improve the health and look of the skin around the nails, until they are strong enough for enhancements. Homecare products and daily use of cuticle oil also promote strong, healthy growth.”

“Rather than shaming nail-biting clients about the habit, it’s best to educate them about the importance of hydration, by retailing cuticle oils to them,” advises Hannah Clayton. “One of my major natural nail success stories is a client who suffered a traumatic time in her personal life, with her nails and surrounding skin taking the brunt via biting. She was upset and embarrassed but following a treatment plan, her nails are in great condition 12 months later.”

“Picking or pulling of the skin surrounding the nail bed and plate, or onychotillomania, is also a common concern for natural nail clients,” comments Jessica Price. “They don’t always realise that picking product off the nail causes damage, as this pulls some of the natural nail with it and can cause the skin to become inflamed and open to infection. If the area is large and severely irritated, treatment needs to be postponed. I would advise cuticle oil use to prevent hangnails, which are often a trigger for clients who pick their skin or nails.”

OPI Repair Mode TM

Repair Mode™ is a bond-building brush-on nail serum from OPI, which is designed for damaged nails. Ulti-Plex Technology™ mimics the natural nail’s protein structure to help restore nails to their optimal condition from within. Existing product should be removed before application, with 10 minutes allowed for the product to penetrate the nails, before they can be prepped, shaped and styled as desired. Use is recommended twice a day for six days, and once daily after that to combat keratin breakdown from day-to-day activities like hand washing and cleaning.

“One of my favourite natural nailcare products is OPI Repair Mode™,” shares Jessica Price. “It doesn’t add time to my services as while allowing the product to penetrate for 10 minutes, I prep the client’s cuticles.”

Polybalm®

For clients undergoing chemotherapy, other targeted cancer therapies and hormone treatments, there can be a number of side effects on nails. These include discolouration, separation, peeling, bleeding under the nail, ridges, dents, concave nails and infection. A professor and group of experts have developed Polybalm® to protect these patients’ nails. The product is clinically proven to nourish the fingernail and toenail beds, preventing drying, splitting and cracking via natural, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial ingredients.

Each pack of Polybalm® contains two tubes: one for fingernails and one for toes. It is advised that the product is applied twice a day, focusing on the cuticle area, and after exposure to irritants like soap. It is also recommended that it is applied as treatment starts until three to four weeks after it ends.

Quick nail type test

How to identify a client’s nail type, according to Susan Gerrard:

• “Is the nail surface powdery and matte? The client has a dry nail type.

• When squeezing sides of the nails, are they flexible? If not, nails are brittle.

• Is there peeling or flaking at the free edge? This shows that naila areweak.”

Ridged nails

Vertical and horizontal ridges in nails can be a result of a medical condition, age or trauma, and should be filled in and smoothed over – rather than buffed away, which could cause damage.

S eparation of the nail

“Onycholysis, or nail separation, can have a number of causes, including an infection, trauma, nail psoriasis, health conditions and an allergy,” says Yasmin Hodge. “In the case of a potential allergy, the client must seek an allergy test before you can treat them again. Nails presenting onycholysis should be kept short and oiled daily to replenish nutrients in the nail, with all coatings removed.”

Toenail reconstruction

For many clients with damaged toenails, often caused by trauma, they can benefit from reconstructive gel products to create a polished, natural-looking appearance.

Upkeep

Don’t let your hard work treating clients’ natural nails go to waste by not recommending aftercare solutions to them. While it can feel pushy, remember that clients come to you for your expertise and to achieve beautiful-looking nails, and by recommending aftercare solutions, you are supporting the longevity of their services.

As Katie Clark, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education, writes in an online article for Scratch: “Sharing your wealth of knowledge with clients provides several benefits to your business:

• Improved customer experience.

• Prevents against negative reviews (as maintenance ensures service satisfaction).

• Good tech-client relationships and trust.

“Some nail professionals choose to discuss aftercare during consultations, while others opt to have these conversations during or after appointments,” she continues. “Figure out what works best for your business and maintain this process with every customer.”

Versatile care

Nail Kind’s 5 in 1: 360 Therapy treatment works to restore, harden and repair thin, weak nails, either as a strengthening treatment applied twice a week, or as a nourishing nail polish base coat or top coat. The quick dry formula has a smoothing effect on nails and contains patented ingredients: chestnut seed extract to promote nail plate regeneration, and hexanal: hardening molecules to support nail strength.

White spots

“Leukonychia, or white spots on the nail, can be caused by a number of factors, including trauma to the nail plate, incorrect tool usage and nail biting,” details Salon System expert, Jaz Moger. “This discolouration will grow out over time, but nails must be carefully looked after in the meantime.”

There are two types of leukonychia: true leukonychia, which is caused by abnormal nail plate keratinisation, and apparent leukonychia, which disappears with pressure application on the nail. “True leukonychia is the most common nail concern I see in clients,” reveals Tanya Jeskins. “It’s a myth that this is a sign of a calcium deficiency – it is more often caused by a minor trauma and is frequently seen in children and nail biters.

“To improve the condition of the nail while the white spots grow out, I recommend regular, gentle manicures/pedicures incorporating luxury elements such as paraffin wax or hot oils, and use of the Famous Names IBX system,” continues Tanya. “To prevent true leukonychia from occurring, I advise routine manicures/pedicures, daily cuticle oil use and a plan to prevent nail biting if relevant.”

X– RescueRXxTM

“For clients that come to me for a cuticle tidy but want to protect their natural nails in between treatments, I suggest CND’s RescueRXx™️,” shares Hannah Clayton. “This is a daily keratin treatment that aids in repairing nails and contains keratin protein and conditioning jojoba oil. The product helps to strengthen damaged, weak nails and softens the skin around the nail plate. This is ideal for those with hangnails: small pieces of skin usually caused by dryness or trauma, which are one of the most frequent natural nail concerns among my clients.”

Yellowing

There are a range of reasons why nails can yellow, from smoking, deficiencies, ageing and medical conditions to damage from dyes or products, which can be prevented with protective base coats and combatted with whitening treatments.

Zen-like experience

While tending to the natural nails of clients, don’t forget to aid their comfort with a calming appointment experience. This can be achieved by considering their senses, such as relaxing music for their ears and an aesthetically pleasing setup for their eyes and sense of touch.