ASK THE Experts

REBECCA HITCHON sources advice on treatment plans for nail biters & pickers, from finalists in the Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year category 2024

ASHLEIGH CLEMENTS

HANNAH CLAYTON

JESSICA PRICE

LUCY PRICE-MARSHALL

TANYA JESKINS

Client case

“One of my clients wanted to grow her natural nails for her wedding in two years’ time,” shares Lucy Price-Marshall. “Her cuticles were overgrown, her nail beds were short, and her fingertips were sore and swollen.

I recommended starting with some mini manicures and homecare products. After a few months of natural nail treatments, the condition of the nails improved. I kept the free edges short and maintained the cuticles, and we eventually opted for a builder gel overlay to offer protection, as nail growth was flexible and prone to tearing, which gave the client temptation to bite or pick. She was able to have the wedding nails she desired, and continues to maintain her nails.”

Bitten nails at a consultation for a two-year treatment plan, carried out by Lucy Price-Marshall.

Client case

“A client visited me six months before her wedding day, as she wanted to improve the look of her nails and surrounding skin,” recalls Ashleigh Clements. “She had been a nail biter for most of her life, and presented small nail beds. At her first appointment, I removed dead cuticle and skin and exfoliated the dry skin around the nails. I conditioned with oil and hand cream before applying OPI strengthener, Nail Envy, to the nails. I recommended the use of cuticle oil regularly and the client visited me every week for three months until the nails had grown. This kept her accountable for her nailcare.

She then visited every fortnight until her wedding day, at which she showcased beautiful nails.”

OPI Nail Envy Nail Strengthener (Classic) £14.90 + VAT/RRP £21.90 www.opi.com

Client case

“My client went through a tough period in her life and her nails and surrounding skin took the brunt,” says Hannah Clayton. “Over 12 months, her treatment plan included daily homecare, two weekly cuticle care appointments and nail health checks, and the results were phenomenal.”

BEFORE

AFTER

“Before creating a treatment plan, it is vital to carry out a thorough consultation with the client, so you can manage their expectations.”

Why do people bite and pick at their nails and skin?

“Nail biting, also known as onychophagia, and skin picking and biting, named perionychophagia, are habits associated with stress, anxiety and compulsive disorders. They often develop during childhood,” explains Lucy Price-Marshall, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2024 & OPI educator. “Those who bite their nails to or below the hyponychium heighten the risk of infection, as they break the protective seals of the nails. It is common for these clients to display soreness, redness, overgrown cuticles and excessively short nail beds. Skin picking and biting can cause calluses, deformation of nail plates and damage to nail beds.”

“Some people bite their nails to occupy their hands due to boredom or if quitting another habit, such as smoking. Alternatively, it can be a mechanism to cope with overwhelming feelings,” adds Jessica Price. “Stress balls and fidget rings can be beneficial for these clients, as can rubbing cuticles with nail oil in calming motions. Continuous nail and skin picking can cause habit-tic, where trauma to the nail affects growth in the nail matrix and results in grooves and ridges. I have seen nails recover from this with care and time.”

A client of Jessica Price presenting habit-tic.

“Nail biters also run the risk of ingesting pathogens that may be on or under the free edge of the nail plate, or transferring bacteria or viruses from their hands to the skin on their face,” notes Tanya Jeskins. “This could cause illness, stomach upsets and skin disorders.”

What should be considered when creating a treatment plan?

“Before creating a treatment plan, it is vital to carry out a thorough consultation with the client, so you can manage their expectations and consider ways to help them break the habit,” says Lucy Price-Marshall. “As a former nail biter, I can empathise with clients trying to achieve their nail goals, as it’s a long but rewarding process. I suggest taking a picture at each appointment to record the client’s progress, and scheduling appointments in advance to stay on plan.

“A treatment plan must consider a client’s goals, expectations and maintenance needs and lifestyle,” Lucy continues. “Some clients may opt to wear gel polish, builder gel or L&P acrylic overlays while growing their natural nails, however for some, any service breakdown can trigger biting or picking. If a client is unable to attend appointments regularly, they should be recommended products to use at home, such as cuticle oil, nail strengthener and a 240-grit file to maintain length and avoid biteable areas of nail or skin.”

“It should be remembered that achieving positive results from a treatment plan isn’t just down to you as the nail tech,” details Hannah Clayton, CND™️ UK ambassador. “It’s a two-way partnership, for example, I use daily keratin treatment, CND RescueRXx™️, and expect clients to continue this treatment at-home and between appointments.”

CND Rescue RXx™️ £10.95 + VAT/RRP £25.95 www.sweetsquared.com

“During their consultation, ask the client questions such as ‘what are you hoping to achieve?’, ‘would you prefer a plan based on natural nailcare or enhancements?’ and ‘do you have a time frame in mind for these results?’,” recommends Ashleigh Clements, OPI educator. “Also consider the client’s budget and lifestyle, from their profession to hobbies and day-to-day life. Based on what is shared in the consultation and your professional judgment, you can establish a plan.”

How can a treatment plan’s length and appointment schedule be determined?

“Clients who want to beat a nail biting habit usually have a goal in mind: often an event where they’d like their natural nails to look amazing, which can help determine an initial timescale,” shares Tanya Jeskins. “I typically start with a six-week plan, as this is usually enough time to see transformative results, but gives clients a realistic end goal. It is also important to consider that clients like to see results to keep them motivated, so I build incentives into the price of plans. For example, at week three, I include luxury components in appointments and if clients complete their treatment course, their last IBX Jessica Price adds: “I recommend manicure treatments every one to two weeks for nail biters, to maintain triggers, such as flaps of skin, long nail length and nail snags. The longer nails are, the more likely they are to break and prompt biting and picking. You could offer a package including the price of treatments and aftercare products.”