ALL IN Order

The team at Nail Order shares why it’s using the term ‘Minus4’ to promote ingredient clarity amongst its nail products

I n just four and a half years, Scottish company, Nail Order, has garnered a vast and dedicated following, with nail professionals finding contentment in its product offerings, brand transparency and inclusive ethos. Humbly launching in July 2020 with cuticle oil pens, a hand sanitiser and a small amount of merchandise, the brand now boasts a colourful portfolio of gel polishes, builder gels, hard gels, Xtensions (full cover tips), retail items and an abundance of merch, with products used by around 7,000 nail techs worldwide.

Chris & Bekka Costello

“At Nail Order, we pride ourselves on creating innovative products that are allergy-conscious, solve a problem and simply work well,” shares Bekka Costello, co-founder. “My husband, Chris, and I had our own salon for over a decade, and we feel that we understand what a nail tech needs to make their job easier.”

The duo launched the brand while their salon was closed due to Covid-19 restrictions. “The business changed in August 2021, when we introduced Xtensions: Nail Order’s full cover tip range,” Bekka continues. “We had used full cover tips in our salon for around eight years at that point, and while we loved certain elements from different brands, we didn’t love one system cohesively. The product development knowledge we had gained from our existing Nail Order range gave us a starting point to be able to create our own tips.”

Customers were keen to apply colour on top of Xtensions, so research began into creating a gel polish line that was either EU or UK-made, HEMA-free and offered great coverage. Following much research and testing, Nail Order’s gel polish range launched in October 2023, and products are shipped as far as Cambodia, Indonesia, Puerto Rico and Australia.

A focus on formulation

“At Nail Order, we put thought into every aspect of our products: from the chemicals used to where they are made, their functionality and design,” Bekka shares. “We are meticulous at every stage of the development process.

“I have a genuine interest in the chemistry of gels and conduct research regularly to ensure that Nail Order can provide accurate education to its customers. Nail Order products are designed to make nail techs’ roles easier, and if they have any issues, they will receive a swift response from a member of the team. We also ensure that there is a plethora of free educational content available to our customers, so they can work safely and get the best from their products.”

Minus4

It is the team’s focus on education and chemistry that has led to the launch of The -4 Collection: a range of gel polishes, art gels and Flexi Gels free of four common allergens found in nail products: HEMA, HPMA, IBOA and di-HEMA.

Bekka explains: “Typically, the term ‘hypoallergenic’ is synonymous with the ideology that products with this label are suitable for those with sensitivities. Many believe that you cannot have an allergic response to such products – but this is not true.”

If a product is hypoallergenic, it is ‘less likely to cause a reaction than comparable preparations or goods’, according to Collins Dictionary. “The keyword there is ‘less’,” Bekka continues. “’Hypoallergenic’ refers to a less likely risk of reaction, not an elimination. There is no chance. There is no scientifically agreed upon term in the nail industry, so to some gel brands, ‘hypoallergenic’ may mean a product that is simply free from HEMA, as technically, it would be less allergenic. This can be misleading.

“We believe that if we continue to use this term, we are inadvertently adding to a false narrative that these products are ‘safe’ and free from risk. So, we are using the term ‘Minus4’ (-4) in reference to Nail Order products that are free from HEMA, HPMA, IBOA and di-HEMA. It is important to add that while these allergens are most common in this industry, it is still possible to react to other chemicals within nail products, hence why ‘hypoallergenic’ products can cause an allergic response.”

Bekka works closely with the chemist at Nail Order’s UK factory, which means the company can choose which chemicals it wants to exclude from products when possible. She shares: “A reaction to nail products will always be a possibility, due to the type of chemicals that are required to ensure polymerisation and adhesion. It is vital that nail technicians are aware of risks when working with products featuring these chemicals.

“When choosing to use ‘Minus4’ in reference to our four-free products, we were conscious not to use any adjectives that might mislead or be otherwise suggestive, such as ‘safe’, ‘gentle’ or ‘sensitive’, as these could have similar connotations to the ‘hypoallergenic’ term.

“We hope that this campaign will help educate both nail technicians and clients on the term ‘hypoallergenic’ when it is used in the nail industry, and understand that there are always risks involved when applying chemicals to the body.”

Product spotlight

Nail Order’s Dura Gel (£25 + VAT) is a self-levelling hard gel with a built-in base and top coat. It can be used to craft sleek, natural-looking nails or create bold, artistic designs: tips or as a natural nail overlay. The file-off product is available in an original formula, alongside seven shades and a clear in the Minus4 range.

The Nail Order ethos

“Inclusivity over exclusivity is our motto,” says Bekka. We want everyone to feel that they have a place within the Nail Order family, regardless of who they are, where they are from, what they look like, their style or their time in the industry.”