SYSTEM SPOTLIGHT

BUILD ‘em up

Add strength to nails & aid structure with Scratch’s showcase of builder gel formulas & their key features

Builder gel has evolved from a niche enhancement option to a nail kit essential, owing to its versatility and ease of application. Whether you seek additional strength for your gel services, or your skillset leans toward speedy structured manicures and salon-friendly extensions, nail brands have served up a variety of builder gel solutions to suit.

Image courtesy of Glitterbels, www.glitterbels.com

Image courtesy of The GelBottle Inc, www.thegelbottle.com

BRUSH-ON BUILDER GEL: THE SPEED SPECIALIST

‘Traditional’ builder gel is presented in a pot, sometimes referred to as sculpting gel or hard gel, and boasts a medium to high viscosity. This allows for the creation of intentional apexes and long extensions, and pros benefit from controlled, precise application. However, an increase in time-poor clients requesting strong nail enhancements at speed has led to the launch of builder gel in a brush-on format. Much like gel polish, the convenient application style and self-levelling properties of brush-on builder gels allow the formulas to be applied swiftly.

More recently, hybrid builder gel iterations have been making their way into the professional nail market, such as The GelBottle Inc’s Hard BIAB™, which is featured on this month’s front cover. Both brush-on and jar-based builder gels have earned their place in the pro toolkit, but understanding their properties is imperative in order to match the right product to each client’s natural nail condition, lifestyle and goals. Take a look at some of the options available across the sector…

Brush-on builder gel is packaged like gel polish, but formulated with a thicker viscosity that makes it strong enough for structural overlays and short enhancements. Its durability when cured makes it a popular option for heavy-handed clients, and the self-levelling formula is suited to those with ridged or uneven natural nails. This also reduces the need for filing, saving time at the nail desk.

Brush-in-a-bottle application is quick for gel polish pros to master, and suits clients who seek quick service times. While brush-on builder formulas support the natural nail, many lack the properties required for sculpting long lengths on forms, so should be used with tips if length is required.

Application

While application varies between brands, it typically involves a coat of primer following nail prep. Next, a tip may be applied for length. A base coat or thin layer of brush-on builder gel is then applied and cured, before a thicker bead is floated near the centre of the nail and feathered towards the cuticle area and sidewalls to build structure. Due to the self-levelling properties of most brush-on builder gels, the hand is often turned over to form an even apex, before the product is cured, refined and finished with colour or top coat.

Removal

Most brush-on builder gels are soak-off systems, as they are chemically similar to gel polish. However, the thicker viscosity of builder gel, in comparison to gel polish, means that enhancements can take longer to soak off with acetone, and timings vary by brand. Regular infills of builder gel enhancements are recommended, but if removal is required, it’s recommended to remove the bulk of the enhancement with an E-file or 180-grit file before soaking off. A ‘safety layer’ should be left to support the natural nail, before rebuilding the structure.

Hybrid systems may require a file-to-thin and short soak approach. However, with any system, it’s imperative that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed for safe removal and protection of the natural nail.

Available in six shades, plus Clear!

Gelish Brush-On Builder

About: Create durable overlays and salon-style extensions with this smooth, self-levelling formula. HEMA-free and ideal for building structure, Gelish Brush-On

Builder is designed to minimise sidewall flooding for controlled application, and cures in 30 seconds in a Gelish LED Lamp. Wear time is around 21 days. Price: £16.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Artistic Brush-On Builder

About: This self-levelling, bubble-free formula from Artistic Nail Design offers the strength and flexibility of traditional builder products, with convenient brush-in-a-bottle application. Its range of shades are ideal for overlays, short extensions and achieving the popular ‘clean girl’ aesthetic, and the finish is lightweight: offering over 21 days’ wear. Price: £9.95 + VAT

Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

Available in six shades, plus Clear!

Hara Professional Builder Gel

About: Hara Professional’s Builder Gel boasts a HEMA-free, versatile and self-levelling formula that promotes natural nail strength and offers a long-lasting, mirror-shine finish. Ideal for clients who require durable nail enhancements, this medium viscosity gel can be applied directly to natural nails or used to create salon-style extensions. Hara Professional Builder Gel is available in 16 shades plus Clear. Price: From £8.50 + VAT

Stockist: www.haraprofessional.com / www.astonandfincher.co.uk

Available in 10ml and 18ml bottles!

TOP TIP

“Do not skip primer application,” shares Hara Professional brand ambassador, Olivia Eales of @refined.byolivia. “Hara’s Ultra Bond Primer ensures that the Builder Gel adheres well to the natural nail, and it prevents lifts, cracks and chips.”

Glitterbels Hema Free Builder-bel Gel

About: The Glitterbels Builder-bel Gel formula is TPO and HEMA-free, self-levelling and can be applied over natural nails or existing enhancements. Choose from over 60 shades. Price: £17.99 inc VAT

Stockist: www.glitterbels.com

CND PLEXIGEL™ Builder

About: CND PLEXIGEL™ is a brush-in-a bottle enhancement system that provides strength, architecture and moderate to long length to the natural nail. Available in five colours to suit a variety of skin tones, PLEXIGEL™ Builder can be used to build extreme length and is self-smoothing, making it easy to build over an apex. Its thick viscosity offers great control and buildability, especially when working with forms or tips. Price: £22.45 + VAT

Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

Zero Builder Gel In A Bottle

About: Crafted in the USA, Zero’s builder gel formula boasts strength and durability that lasts a minimum of three weeks on natural nails. The product can be used to create short to medium nail enhancements with forms or tips. It is free from HEMA, Di-HEMA, HPMA, TPO and IBOA. Price: £16.89 + VAT

Stockist: www.themanicurecompany.com

Nail enhancements featuring Zero Builder Gel In A Bottle in Skin Deep.

Available in seven shades, plus Clear!

Available in 23 shades – including glitters, plus Clear!

The Manicure Company Builder Base

About: Builder Base was formulated in 2017 and is ideal for natural nail overlays: adding strength, increasing wear time and creating length. It can also be used over nail tips and forms. Regular infills are recommended over full removal. Price: £15.11 + VAT

Stockist: www.themanicurecompany.com

HONA TrueBuild

About: Created for busy nail techs, TrueBuild doesn’t require a base coat, helping to simplify and speed up services without compromising results. Made in Wales and HEMA and TPO-free, TrueBuild offers up to four weeks’ wear. The formula is designed for strength, speed and safety, and the thick viscosity allows for easy apex control and structure building. Price: £18.50 + VAT

Stockist: www.homeofnailart.com

Available in 14 shades, plus Clear!

Nails by Cardiff-based pro, @poppsbeauty.

Roxi Builder Gel

About: Engineered for strength and versatility, Roxi Builder Gel is ideal as a durable nail overlay and features a reliable formula for structure. Free from HEMA and TPO, the builder gel is available in 8ml and 15ml sizes. It is manufactured in the UK and Europe and boasts simle soak-off removal. Price: From £9 + VAT

Stockist: www.roxinails.co.uk / www.nsinails.co.uk

Available in 18 shades, plus Clear!

Read more about Hard BIAB™ from page 16!

The GelBottle Inc Hard BIAB™

About: Hard BIAB™ is ideal for sculpting extensions, reinforcing long natural nails and offering heavy-handed clients long-lasting nail overlays. It combines the durability of hard gel with the application ease of The GelBottle Inc’s Original Builder in a Bottle™ (BIAB™) formula. Available in 11 shades – plus Clear, the thick viscosity of Hard BIAB™ is perfect for precision shaping. The file-off formula is designed to last over four weeks, and the UK-made product is HEMA and TPO-free. Price: £18.95 + VAT

Stockist: www.thegelbottle.com

Nails by TGB Insider, @nailsbyyjasmine, using Hard BIAB™ in Dreamer.

“Think of Hard BIAB™ as a formula between soak-off BIAB™ and traditional hard gel, giving techs a bottle-based, natural nail-focused solution that bridges the gap.” Daisy Kalnina, founder of The GelBottle Inc

Available in four semi-sheer neutral shades, plus Clear!

OPI GELevate™ 4-in-1 Builder

About: GELevate™ 4-in-1 Builder is a vegan, HEMA-free formula that features Intelli-Builder TechnologyTM to help build short and medium-length enhancements. GELevate™ creates strong and durable overlays, and is perfect for infills and using over tips. The product’s Intelli-Brush features a rounded edge that hugs cuticles for precise application. Price: From £18.99 + VAT

Stockist: uk.wella.professionalstore.com

Kirsty Meakin Sculptify

About: Whether you’re creating length with a tip or applying a natural overlay, Sculptify adds strength and durability to nails. Best used with the Kirsty Meakin Base Coat, it soaks off with ease and has ‘a self-levelling formula with no heat spikes’. Price: £14.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.kirstymeakin.com

Andreia Professional One Bottle Builder Gel

About: One Bottle Builder Gel is a self-levelling, high-resistance gel with a smooth, creamy texture that’s low-heat and acid-free. It is equipped with a specially designed built-in brush that’s short, firm and features a rounded cut for precise, effortless application when adding strength and building shape.

Price: £7.99 + VAT Stockist: www.andreiaprofessional.com /www.salon-services.com

Available in 11 shades, plus Clear!

The GelBottle Inc Builder In A Bottle™ (BIAB™)

About: Create durable overlays overlays and add strength to the natural nail with 20ml Original Builder In A Bottle™ – available in over 70 shades. Ideal for short to mid-length natural nail overlays and short nail fixes, BIAB™ is a HEMA-free base coat and builder gel in one, and offers around four weeks’ wear. Price: £18.95 + VAT

Stockist: www.thegelbottle.com

Available in 7ml Minis!

GelJunkie Create The Length (CTL)

About: Offering ‘a smooth, even nail surface that is resistant to chipping, cracking and lifting’, the CTL formula serves to strengthen and lengthen natural nails. Price: £12.95 inc VAT Stockist: www.geljunkie.co.uk

Halo EasiBuild

About: Halo EasiBuild delivers strength, flexibility and structure with minimal effort. Available in Clear plus a variety of shades, this brush-on builder gel is ideal for sculpting with forms, over tip extensions or reinforcing natural nails with a smooth, self-levelling finish. Primer is not required, and EasiBuild can be used prior to gel polish application and to build apex structure. The product is available in 8ml and 15ml bottles. Price: From £7.73 + VAT

Stockist: www.purenails.co.uk

Nails by Toronto-based tech, @denasnails, using JimmyGel in Boomer White.

Light Elegance JimmyGel Building Base Gel

About: JimmyGel is formulated for overlays, extensions and use under any Light Elegance hard gel or soak-off gel colour. It adds strength and structure to natural nails while maintaining flexibility, offers around four weeks’ wear and requires minimal filing. Free from HEMA, HEA and IBOA monomers, JimmyGel is suitable for clients with allergy-sensitive nails. The product launched in Clear, Soft Pink, Ideal Pink,

Natural and Boomer White, and now boasts a six-piece pinks collection and four sheer colours. Price: £19 + VAT

Stockist: www.lightelegance.co.uk

Discover SkinnyJimmy! SkinnyJimmy Building Base Gel (£19 + VAT) has a 33% thinner viscosity than original JimmyGel, offering faster overlays. The gel’s thin consistency also ensures that gems and embellishments adhere securely to nails, and that nail art can be encapsulated effectively.

Glitterbels Brush On Builder Gel

About: Designed to reinforce natural nails and create short enhancements, this TPO-free, soak-off builder gel is easy to apply and offers great retention. There are 18 shades in the range. Price: £17.99 inc VAT

Stockist: www.glitterbels.com

NSI HEMA-free Builder Gel

About: Designed to support the longevity of gel polish services, NSI’s vegan HEMA-free brush-on, soak off Builder Gel is ideal for short enhancements and building an apex. Price: £13.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.nsinails.co.uk

Available in nine shades, plus Clear!

HD Pro Nails Flex It!

About: This HEMA-free Base & Builder Gel In A Bottle can be used as a base gel or to create shape and structure before applying a Colour It! gel polish colour. It smooths out unevenness on ridged nails and strengthens soft, thin and weak nails, creating a flawless foundation for gel polish application. Due to its self-levelling formulation, Flex It! offers ease of application and can be infilled. Price: From £11.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.hazeldixonnails.com

Available in over 45 shades!

BUILDER IN A POT: PERFECT FOR PRECISION

Builder gel formulas in pots or jars vary in viscosity, but the majority boast higher viscosities than brush-on builder gels, meaning they are the preferred choice for techs specialising in sculpted work.

The formulas are suited to the craftmanship of complex shapes and long extensions with forms, and may also be called sculpting or hard gels. As a separate gel brush is used for application, techs can control the brush size and product amount. This supports application precision, particularly if thin brushes are used for application near the cuticle and around the sidewalls. Builder gels in pots provide the strength needed to match the rigidity of tough natural nails.

The use of medium to high viscosity gels requires more experience in gel manipulation and apex building, compared to brush-on builder gels. While brush-in-a-bottle formats are largely self-levelling, pot-based builder gels require techs to float product across the nail and build the apex and sidewalls with intention. Application is more time-consuming with the system, especially during the refinement stage, and more tools are required per service.

Application

Thorough prep and priming are required before application of hard gel, however steps and techniques vary from brand to brand, so always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines. As builder gels in pots have a thick viscosity, there is greater control for the pro – so pick up a bead, apply a thin layer and cure, before building structure with a medium-sized bead if needed (with or without the use of a form). Refinement may take longer than with brush-on builder gel. The final step is cleansing and colour or top coat application.

Removal

Most pot-based builder gels are fully crosslinked systems that cannot be dissolved using acetone. E-file removal is advisable for speed, and to reduce strain on the wrists and hands caused by manually filing enhancements of this type.

Bulk should be removed using a medium or coarse carbide bit, switching to a medium grit as the natural nail is approached. Leave a thin base layer of the gel on the natural nail for support: ready for reapplication.

The Manicure Company LED Gel Builder

About: The polymer system of this Pro Enhancement LED Builder Gel ensures it cures in 30 seconds. It has a medium viscosity, is available in Clear, Cover Pink, French Pink and White, and is suitable for use on the natural nail and for tip & overlay enhancements. Price: From £28.48 + VAT

Stockist: www.themanicurecompany.com

HONA BuilderPot

About: Combining the strength of traditional builder gel with the control of a pot format, BuilderPot is ideal for techs who prefer brush pickup and seek precise application. The formula is HEMA-free, with a thin to medium viscosity that allows for controlled sculpting and overlays. It strengthens without adding bulk, and a variety of shades are available. Price: £20 + VAT

Stockist: www.homeofnailart.com

Gelish Hard Gel LED Builder Gel

About: Craft thin, natural-looking nail enhancements that are ideal for everyday wear with this thick viscosity gel. Available in Clear, Pink, White and Dark Pink, the product utilises Gel Suspension Technology (GST) to assure control and workability. Price: From £19.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Artistic Rock Hard LED Building Gel

About: Artistic Nail Design Rock Hard Building Gel is designed for sculpting extensions and creating structure, such as building an arch. Ideal for French finishes, the formula is available in Clear, Pink and White. Price: £14.45 + VAT

Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

Andreia Professional Builder Gel 3 in 1

About: This medium viscosity and low-heat builder gel works as a base, builder and top coat in one. Acid-free, it’s self-levelling and has a fluid texture and high resistance. The Builder Gel’s balanced thickness makes it ideal for creating natural-looking nail extensions and adding strength. Price: £16.99 + VAT

Stockist: www.andreiaprofessional.com & www.salon-services.com

Nail Order AnGel Builder Gel Pot

About: This HEMA-free, soak-off formula is inspired by Nail Order’s popular brush-on AnGel Builder Gel, but has a slightly thicker consistency. It does not require a base coat, is TPO-free and self-levels – yet offers users controlled application. The product is available in over 30 shades, including glitters. Price: £20 + VAT

Stockist: www.nailorder.co.uk

Halo Elite Hard Gel

About: This highly pigmented hard gel is ideal for adding structure, building nails and crafting extensions. It glides on smoothly and boasts a long-lasting and hard-wearing formula. This ensures that creations hold their shape, while providing built-in flexibility. Price: £20.97 + VAT

Stockist: www.purenails.co.uk

Available in five shades, plus Clear!

HD Pro Nails Build It! Pro - Fibre X®

About: Build It! Pro Fibre X® is a UV/LED fibre-infused hard builder gel. It offers a mix of strength, flexibility and durability using cross-linked technology. Easy to apply, it levels effortlessly and is ideal for extending the nail, offering a natural-looking finish. Price: £17.99 + VAT Stockist: www.hazeldixonnails.com

Available in nine shades, plus Clear!

NSI Balance Elite LED/ UV Gel System

About: This odourless hard gel is perfect for a variety of nail services, including natural nail overlays, tip & overlay structures, sculpting on a form and pedicures. A range of colours and opacities are available in 15g, 30g and 50g sizes. The gel’s viscosity is super thick, so it holds its shape – but also self-levels. Price: From £20.95 + VAT

Stockist: www.nsinails.co.uk

CND Brisa™ Gel

About: Available in 14g and 42g sizes, Brisa™ Gel technology results in thin, light, natural-looking enhancements that resist service breakdown. Perfect for constructing the base colour to all types of bespoke French enhancements, the natural-looking shades are ideal for building structure. Price: From £14.67 + VAT

Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

Image courtesy of Light Elegance, www.lightelegance.co.uk

Light Elegance Lexy Line Gels

About: The award-winning Lexy Line offers five versatile hard gel formulations designed for creating long-lasting structures, extensions and great foundations for nail designs. The options are: Extreme, 1-Step, Builder, Fiber and Cool Gel. Builder is available in six shades,10ml, 30ml and 50ml sizes, and is recommended for L&P acrylic users switching to gel. It has a thick viscosity, is not self-levelling and can be used to build and sculpt. What’s more, its flexibility makes it ideal for ski jump and flimsy natural nails. Price: From £27.95 + VAT

Stockist: www.lightelegance.co.uk