CAT’S claws

Scratch Stars Hall Of Fame pro, CATRIONA LEITH, serves up industry insights & advice for nail sector success

ABOUT CATRIONA LEITH

Cambridgeshire-based Cat Leith boasts 19 years’ experience in the nail sector. She balances salon and education roles, crafting artistic creations for the loyal clients of her business, The Nail Studio, while delivering high-quality training to pros as co-head of education for Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy.

Cat has scooped a multitude of awards, including the Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year and One Stroke Artist of the Year accolades in 2022, 2023 and 2024. As a result, she entered the awards’ Hall Of Fame for both categories.

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6 TOP TIPS FOR HARD GEL APPLICATION

In my opinion, hard gel is one of the most versatile and elegant systems in the nail industry. When applied correctly, it delivers strength without bulk, crystal clarity and exceptional durability.

When it comes to application, small adjustments to prep, product control and pressure can dramatically elevate results. Here’s my application advice...

1 Precise prep equals long-lasting results

No gel system compensates for improper prep. Hard gel in particular demands meticulous prep, because it doesn’t soak off.

To properly remove the cuticle, you must not only push back the proximal nail fold and cuticle, but use a diamond E-file bit or cuticle tool to gently remove non-living tissue from the nail plate. When etching the natural nail, work to remove shine rather than create grooves. You should use a 180/240-grit file. Lower grits will compromise the natural nail.

Once you have thoroughly dehydrated the nail plate, inspect it from multiple angles to ensure there is no shine. Any remaining shine could indicate an area that could cause lifting.

2 Less product is more

One of the most common hard gel issues is over-application. Due to the self-levelling properties of some gels, pros often compensate with too much product. A thin ‘slip’ layer prior to bead application can help the gel seamlessly blend onto the nail, without bulk. Building layers, rather than using a big bead, supports product control.

If hard gel runs into the cuticle or sidewalls, you are either working too slowly and with too much product, or in an environment that’s too warm. In hot weather, use an ice pack to keep the product cool and maintain its viscosity.

Tilting the client’s nails downwards when applying hard gel prevents the product from bleeding into the cuticle area. Also, flipping their hand upside down for five to 10 seconds before curing allows gravity to do its thing and builds a natural apex.

3 Thin for the win: structure over thickness

Strength comes from architectural shape – not bulk. The apex should sit roughly a third of the way down the natural nail. Keep product at the cuticle and sidewalls thin and flush, as most of the gel needs to be at the apex.

Using a liner brush can provide more control than a gel brush when smoothing and refining hard gel. This reduces the need for filing.

4 Master form fitting for extensions

When using forms, it is incredibly important that they fit seamlessly. If a form slips, you run the risk of gel seeping under and product touching the skin, as well as a weak extension. Improper angles can create ski jump or downward nails, which compromise strength.

Customise every form by pre-rolling it to create a strong C-curve, and cutting and tailoring it to hug the hyponychium. Build a skeleton hard gel layer first and flash cure, before building the structure. This helps prevent heat spikes and keeps the shape refined.

5 Adapt to avoid heat spikes

Heat spikes are generated during the polymerisation of gel, but there are ways to avoid them and minimise client discomfort. Apply more layers of hard gel but in thinner coats; use a ‘low heat’ mode if your lamp has one, and flash cure the gel for four to five seconds, then briefly take the hand out of the lamp before curing fully.

Some clients who experience heat spikes may have thin or compromised nail plates. It is important that during their consultations, you identify which product is suitable for them. One product doesn’t fit all. Investing in multiple viscosities of hard gel can ensure you meet different client needs.

6 Perfect your filing strategy

If you have honed your application techniques, you shouldn’t need to file hard gel much. However, building your muscle memory can help refine the process and ensure nails are uniform in shape and length. To do this, file a particular section across all nails, before moving onto another part of the nail. For example, file the cuticle areas of all five nails before turning your attention to the sidewalls.

Hard gel rewards patience and precision. Application is not about speed, but rather structure, balance and control. By refining prep, mastering product control and focusing on apex placement and shape, you can create enhancements that are not only beautiful, but built to last.

Cat x

STEP-BY-STEP: Sugared floral style

You will need:

• Nude gel polish.

• Gel polish no-wipe top coat.

• Chrome powder in your choice of colour.

• Cosmetic sponge.

• Fine liner brush.

• Tack-free art gels in white & various shades.

• Fine white glitter/acrylic powder.

• Nail dust brush.

Step 1 Prep the nail. Apply a nude gel polish as the base, cure then apply gel polish no-wipe top coat. Cure.

Step 2 Add your chosen chrome powder to the nail using a cosmetic sponge. I used HD Pro Candy Compact Chrome Powder in Aurora Lemon. Apply gel polish no-wipe top coat and cure.

Step 3 Use a fine liner brush and tack-free art gels (like HD Professional Nail Systems’ Art Gels) in a variety of shades to paint flowers across the nail. Do not cure.

Step 4 Once you are happy with the design, cover the entire nail with a fine white glitter or acrylic powder. I used HD Pro Glitter Acrylic in Crystal Glitz. Cure.

Step 5 Dust off any excess powder, before adding details to the middle of the flowers using tack-free art gels. Do not cure.

Step 6 Repeat the sugaring process using the fine glitter or acrylic powder, and cure before dusting off any excess.

Step 7 Add tiny dot details between the flowers using a white tack-free art gel. Do not cure.

Step 8 Carry out the sugaring process for a final time and cure. Dust off any excess powder to finish.