10 STEPS TO flawless feet

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FOOTCARE FOCUS

10 STEPS TO flawless feet

Industry pros share advice for every step of the pedicure process

JESS WATTS REPORTS

Behind every pedicure, there is a journey. It’s not just about beautifully polished toenails – it’s a carefully considered process of transformation and expert care. From consultation to cuticle oil application, every step plays a vital role. Here, Scratch shares insight from industry experts and pedi pros, who dissect the service and reveal how to offer a premium pedicure.

INITIAL ASSESSMENT

Kirsti Turrell

1 Consultation

“A perfect pedicure experience begins with a great consultation,” states Kirsti Turrell, Footlogix® educator & brand manager at Sweet Squared. “This ensures that every client receives expert care tailored to their footcare needs.”

Sara Pinto

Sara Pinto, nail product & academy director at Andreia Professional, adds: “The most overlooked step of a pedicure service is the foot assessment. Many issues, such as fungal infections, excessive dryness, cracks or pressure points, are missed when this step is skipped or rushed. Doing so can lead to inappropriate product choices, ineffective results and worsening of existing conditions. A professional pedicure always starts with observation, diagnosis and informed decision-making.”

Leila Monroy

Scratch Stars Pedicurist of the Year 2025 & co-owner of Light Elegance UK, Leila Monroy, says: “When assessing feet, look for signs of active infection, open wounds or cuts. Take into consideration ongoing nail issues and potential fungal infections like athlete’s foot (tinea pedis).”

It is also crucial to find out whether your client has any medical concerns that could affect the pedicure process. According to charity, Diabetes UK, approximately 6% of the UK population has diabetes. The condition can cause damage to the nerves in the feet and reduce blood flow, meaning that professionals must be mindful when performing pedicures on diabetic clients.

Gareth Hicks

“Nail and beauty professionals should remember that if a client has a loss of sensation in their feet, they should be cautious with water temperature and massage pressure. They should also take extra care when cutting and filing nails,” shares Gareth Hicks, podiatrist & educator for DUET Diabetes, which delivers informative workshops about the condition. “Clients who suffer from diabetes can receive a pedicure, as long as there is no sign of infection, ulcers or neuropathy.”

If any of these are presented, Hicks advises using consultation time to ‘explain to the client why you can’t carry out the service and refer them to a GP’. “Once the issue has been resolved, they can be encouraged to return for the treatment,” he shares.

Image courtesy of Geanina Cazan (@geaninac_educator), Scratch Stars Pedicurist of the Year finalist 2025.

‘‘A professional pedicure always starts with observation, diagnosis and informed decision-making. ‘‘

Geanina Cazan

Scratch Stars Pedicurist of the Year finalist 2025, Geanina Cazan, shares her top tips for consultations:

• “Look for any visual signs of nail or skin fungus. Check the top of the feet, soles and less visible areas such as in between the toes.”

• “Ask the client if they have had foot concerns, or if they have ever self-treated any issues.”

• “Check if the client has any medical conditions that may affect the pedicure process.”

PREP

2 Sanitise

“It’s crucial that your hygiene protocols are on point,” says footcare specialist & Scratch columnist, Denise Spragg. “Make sure you have enough sets of tools and bowls for appointments, so you can carry out proper disinfection and sanitisation procedures.”

Aside from this, sanitising the feet should be the first step of pedicure prep. This reduces the microbial load on the feet, while protecting both technician and client from fungal, bacterial and viral infections.

Denise Spragg

Sanitiser sprays for feet should be:

• Alcohol-based, containing a minimum 60-70% ethanol or isopropanol.

• Tested to EN standards or FDA/EPA equivalents for bacterial efficacy, fungicidal efficacy and hygiene.

• Dermatologically tested.

• Rapid-acting, working within 30-60 seconds.

Sara Pinto says: “A professional pedicure kit should include sanitising solutions for hands, feet and tools. Both technician and client hygiene are critical to prevent cross-contamination.”

Cuccio Antibacterial Cleansing Spray from £3.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk

Skintruth® Pedicure Hygiene Spray £10 inc VAT www.skintruth.co.uk

Glitterbels Sanitiser Spray £8.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Marketing musts

“When marketing footcare services, focus on how they can transform tired and overworked feet,” says Kirsten Desai. “Highlight the importance of regular pedicures, and explain that receiving the treatment on a monthly basis helps maintain skin health.”

Sara Pinto adds: “Footcare should be positioned as an essential self-care treatment – not a seasonal add-on. When clients understand the value of foot health, they are more likely to commit to your services long-term.” She shares her three top tips to optimise your marketing:

• “Educate clients on the health benefits of regular pedicures.”

• “Showcase before and after results.”

• “Offer maintenance programmes or seasonal footcare packages.”

3 Nail & cuticle work

This step involves trimming the toenails, plus pushing back and carefully removing non-living tissue from the nail plate. It is essential that this is performed prior to the main pedicure treatment as, post-soaking, the cuticles, nails and surrounding skin will be softer and more damage-prone.

Most professional tools, including cuticle pushers, nippers and nail trimming equipment, should be made from high-grade stainless steel, making them simple to sterilise. Nail files used on natural toenails should be 180-grit or higher and single-use, or able to be disinfected.

Geanina Cazan offers up advice for this step: “Start by working on the skin around the toenails and cuticles. Next, shorten the nails, making sure they are not too short as this can lead to ingrown nails. Finally, buff the nail surface and remove any dust from the skin and toenails.”

Kirsten Desai

Image courtesy of Linkedin.com

“It is vital that nails are cut and filed with precision and care, to help prevent ingrown toenails and infection,” says Kirsten Desai, head of education at Gerrard International. “Toenails should be filed straight across to avoid them growing inwards or curving.”

Katie Barnes 2 Way Sponge Nail Buffer in 220/280-grit £29.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

SPARITUAL® Cuti-Cocktail Vegan Nail & Cuticle Oil £11.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

The GelBottle Inc Cuticle Remover £10 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

NSI Cuticle Nippers from £15.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Halo Half-Moon Zebra File in 180/180-grit £1.30 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Gelish Go File Wireless E-File in Blush Pink £99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Michaela Phillips

“A high-quality pedicure service combines the right prep, products and techniques,” says Michaela Phillips, Pure Nails brand development executive & Halo VIP.

TREATMENT

4 Soak

There are two options for the soak stage of a pedicure. The first is a wet soak, which usually consists of a foot bath filled with warm water, mild cleansing agents and softening products such as Epsom salt.

“An effective foot soak gently prepares the feet for treatment, rather than treating any conditions,” says Geanina Cazan. “Warm – not hot – water helps to soften the skin and nails, making calluses and cuticles easier to work on, while improving circulation and helping the client relax.”

Leila Monroy shares: “Once the client consents, you can start the hands-on treatment. I normally soak the feet for five to 10 minutes in warm water containing Light Elegance Q&Lu Salt Soak. Then, I remove the feet from the water and thoroughly dry them with a clean towel, including in between the toes.”

The Manicure Company Signature Spa Nourishing Soak £10.56 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com

SPARITUAL® Jasmine Tuberose Mineral Rich Soak Salts £78.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“Light Elegance’s Q&Lu Spa Essentials Salt Soak softens cuticles and calluses, making it a perfect choice for pedicures,” comments Jojo Wickens, Light Elegance UK co-owner & head of education. “Its ultra-fine, lightly fragranced salts combine lavender, peppermint, spearmint and sage essential oils to nourish and rejuvenate skin.”

Jojo Wickens with

Light Elegance Q&Lu Salt Soak from £14.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

‘‘ It is essential that you thoroughly dry the feet after the soak stage. ‘‘

Some pedicure professionals prefer a soakless technique, which uses no-rinse soap, callus softeners and sprays. This treatment option can be gentler for thinner or weakened skin, and may be preferable for diabetic or circulation-compromised clients.

Kirsti Turrell notes that the Footlogix® Professional Callus Softener is a popular product, stating: “The spray packaging makes it easy to use and the non-aggressive formula does not need to be washed off, which suits soakless pedicure treatments.”

Famous Names ACESOTM Kick Start Soak £25.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Cuccio Artisan Shea & Vetiver Callus Softener £12.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk

Footlogix® Professional Callus Softener from £19.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

OPI Nature Strong Soft & Gone Callus Softener £20 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com

It is essential that you thoroughly dry the feet after the soak stage, paying special attention to the areas in between the toes. Leftover moisture can interfere with subsequent treatment steps, as well as lead to fungal growth.

Enki Towels Luxury Single-use Hand & Facial Towels from £14.25 + VAT per box www.enkitowels.com

Nilofer Aydinli, director at Enki Towels, recommends using disposable towels for hygiene purposes. She says: “Disposable towels eliminate the risk of cross-contamination, as once a towel has been used on a client, it can be disposed of. Clients can rest assured that they receive a fresh, hygienic towel that’s exclusively for them.”

Nilofer Aydinli

Warm – not hot – water helps to soften the skin and nails, making calluses and cuticles easier to work on, while improving circulation and helping the client relax ‘

Image courtesy of Geanina Cazan ‘‘

5 Callus treatment & exfoliation

Let’s clarify what calluses are and what causes them. A type of hyperkeratosis (the medical term for rough, thickened skin), a callus is defined by Marian Newman BEM as ‘an area of skin that has been subject to a degree of friction and is protecting itself via a build-up of dry, dead skin cells’.

Marian Newman BEM

Online education programme, NailKnowledge, which was co-founded by Marian, states: “A callus is most commonly found on the heel or ball of the foot and the sides of the big and little toes. It can be carefully and gently removed using an abrasive or alkaline product that breaks the bonds between the dead skin cells.”

This pedicure step focuses on softening and minimising this hard, dry skin, while exfoliation encourages skin renewal. The kind of exfoliation required depends on a client’s footcare needs. Generally speaking, more delicate skin may only need a light foot scrub, while rough, thick skin may warrant the use of a foot file first.

“Hard skin removal helps soften the skin, aid the removal of calluses and dead skin, and prevent the build-up of hard skin,” Kirsten Desai explains. “The exfoliation stage helps to maintain skin health.” Sara Pinto adds: “Addressing hyperkeratosis using appropriate products and tools improves the comfort and appearance of feet, without compromising the skin barrier.”

“A pedicure service alone will not remove calluses, as there are several factors that contribute to their build-up,” acknowledges Leila Monroy. “Good aftercare advice and at-home care will ensure the service lasts longer.”

The VODEX SalonAIR ® UVC extraction system in action during an E-pedi service.

Salon essential

Fume and extraction solutions company, VODEX, specialises in removing potentially harmful dust from salon environments. The company states: “Dust collected during footcare procedures has been found to contain keratin, keratin hydrolysates, microbial debris and viable fungal elements. Our SalonAIR® UVC extraction systems have been specially developed to remove and filter harmful fumes and dusts from practitioners’ breathing zones.”

VODEX SalonAIR® UVC £1,950 + VAT www.vodex.co.uk

CNDTM Pro Skincare Exfoliating Sea Salt Scrub for Feet from £28.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Hara Professional Tropical Paradise Salt Scrub £10.95 + VAT www.astonandfincher.co.uk

OPI Dual Sided Foot File with Disposable Grit Strips £13.60 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com

Footlogix® Professional Double-Sided Stainless Steel File in Coarse £29.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

6 Mask & massage

This step is all about hydration and nourishment. Post-exfoliation, clients’ skin will need a moisturising treatment to lock in hydration long-term.

Some pros may opt to start with a foot mask to elevate the client experience. When selecting formulas for this stage, consider hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine and shea butter. Geanina Cazan shares that her go-to ingredient is paraffin as ‘it not only moisturises and provides long-lasting hydration, but protects the skin’.

Aside from products marketed as foot masks, you can also use some intensive lotions, oils or foot creams.

Lycon Lyco’Pedi Hydrating Mask £26 + VAT www.beautytriangle.com

“A foot massage is deeply relaxing and a great source of stress relief,” comments Kirsten Desai. “It helps improve circulation and can ease tension or stiffness in the muscles and joints.”

Margaret Dabbs Intensive Treatment Foot Oil from £23 inc VAT www.margaretdabbs.co.uk

When performing a foot massage, it is essential to use products that allow smooth gliding, hydrate the skin and promote relaxation. There are three main categories of massage products: oils, creams/lotions and intensive treatments/balms. Oil is suited to extremely dry skin as it offers excellent slip and deep hydration. Creams/lotions are less heavy than oils, but still allow for fluid movement and moisture. Rich balms and intensive treatments are deeply reparative and nutrient-dense, so are ideal for very rough skin.

“I like to warm the massage product up by rubbing it between my palms,” says Geanina Cazan. “I apply in gentle massaging motions along the soles, tops of the feet and between the toes, making sure to reach the heels and sides of the feet.”

Light Elegance Q&Lu Spa Oil £17.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

Mii Cosmetics Relax + Tone Foot Massage Cream £19 + VAT/RRP £38 www.gerrardinternational.com

7 Cleansing

At this point in a pedicure service, the client’s feet are deeply nourished and hydrated. Therefore, the nail area should be cleansed to remove oils – in preparation for potential nail product application.

The Manicure Company Pro Prep & Wipe £13.25 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com

Lecenté Nail Prep & Dehydrator from £6.99 + VAT www.lecente.com

9 Nail colour (optional)

Once nails are clean and dry, it is time for colour application using your chosen system – if requested by the client. Help them choose shades and designs, should they need your advice.

Sara Pinto states: “Current pedicure trends show a strong shift towards neutral and milky tones, soft pastels, sheer finishes and subtle textures. Clients are increasingly valuing elegance, versatility and natural aesthetics.”

Leila Monroy adds that glitter is a common go-to for her clients, telling Scratch: “Clients who tend to opt for conservative colours on their fingernails often choose bold, glittery looks on their toes.”

Andreia Professional Gel Polish in 286 £7.99 + VAT www.andreiaprofessional.co.uk

Gel Junkie Gel Polish in Baby Moon £8.95 inc VAT www.geljunkie.co.uk

HONA Gel Polish in Cherie £14.50 + VAT www.homeofnailart.com

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Lucidly Lavender £5.50 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Peacci Nail Polish in Sprinkles £7.49 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

FINISHING TOUCHES

8Toenail reconstruction (if needed)

Some clients may require additional nail support in the form of toenail reconstruction. Insecurities around foot health and aesthetics are prevalent, with a survey by footwear brand, Scholl, revealing that 33% of people in the UK are embarrassed by the appearance of their feet and toenails.

To aid in promoting confidence and foot health, nail brand, Halo, recommends its Rebuild Pedicure Gel. “It is specifically formulated for toenails, which require more flexibility and resilience than fingernails,” says Michaela Phillips. “Rebuild Pedicure Gel is ideal for clients with damaged, broken or partially missing toenails. It delivers strong, natural-looking results, while allowing the toenail to move comfortably.”

Tina Bell, head of education & nail tech support at Pure Nails and Halo, comments that the team worked hard to create a product that would ‘flex with toe movement and stay attached, cover imperfections on toenails, rebuild and extend when required, and provide a professional, long-lasting and durable finish’.

TIna Bell

Halo Rebuild Pedicure Gel £22.95 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Before and after results, using Halo Rebuild Pedicure Gel.

Scratch Stars Hall Of Famer & industry expert, Hazel Dixon, offers the Cosmetics Reconstruction Course via the Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy. The accredited training teaches qualified nail pros how to reconstruct damaged or missing nails safely.

Hazel Dixon

“Once damaged nails have been approved for pedicures by medical professionals, a lot of nail techs are unsure what to do

next,” Hazel said in an interview with Scratch. She states that the HD Pro Nails course fills a ‘gap in education’.

In addition to the course, HD Pro Nails offers the Build It! Pro Recon Gel: “a specialist gel designed specifically for cosmetic reconstruction of natural nails. It can be used on its own, with tips, forms or full cover tips.” The Recon Gel is ‘flexible but strong’ and ‘can touch keratinised skin’, Hazel clarifies.

Catriona Leith

Co-head of education for Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy & Scratch columnist, Catriona Leith, notes: “You can infill the Rebuild Gel as you would a typical gel product. The clear gel ensures that every time a client comes back and any nail colour is removed, you can see exactly what is going on underneath.”

HD Pro Nails Build It! Pro Recon Gel in Clear £17.99 inc VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

Scan to watch Scratch’s interview with Hazel and Cat about the Cosmetic Reconstruction Course and Recon Gel.

‘‘Insecurities around foot health and aesthetics are prevalent, with a survey by footwear brand, Scholl, revealing that 33% of people in the UK are embarrassed by the appearance of their feet and toenails. ‘‘

10 Cuticle care

The last step of a pedicure treatment is the application of cuticle oil. This hydrates the toenails and skin around them, and leaves a beautiful scent.

Roxi Cuticle Oil £10 + VAT www.roxinails.co.uk www.nsinails.co.uk

Glitterbels Pineapple Cuticle Oil £9.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil £4.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Nail Order Candy Hearts Cuticle Oil £10 + VAT www.nailorder.co.uk

Regular pedicures = happy, healthy feet

Geanina Cazan says: “When a client receives regular pedicures, you – as their nail professional – will notice any foot issues and be able to make them aware. Frequent treatments, and not allowing the toenails to overgrow, is also beneficial to avoid foot and toenail issues.”

Leila Monroy adds: “The time between pedicure appointments depends on each client, but the average is six to eight weeks. If correct at-home care is followed, you can safely recommend this length of time.”

“I set a client’s expectations at the start of their first footcare service,” comments Denise Spragg. “I clearly tell them how many treatments they will need with me, the timescales and products I will use. I also book them in for a treatment course. If necessary, I will say something like: ‘I want to see you again in four weeks’ time’, to ensure regular upkeep.

MAINTENANCE

At-home maintenance advice should be kept simple so that clients stick to a footcare routine. “General foot health maintenance twice a day can make a world of difference,” states the NailKnowledge platform. It encourages the following steps for daily footcare:

1. Wash feet with a neutral soap and water.

2. Dry well, paying attention to spaces between the toes.

3. Massage oil and lotion into the feet for 10 seconds. The platform shares: “Using a high-quality nail and skin oil is essential to guard against any unwanted pathogens.”