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Fashion-Forward Fingertips

Go backstage with nail teams at autumn/winter 2025 Fashion Weeks, as they divulge the inspirations, products & processes behind their creations

The influence of Fashion Weeks across the globe cannot be overlooked, as high-impact catwalk looks filter into not just apparel lines, but the cosmetics, hair and nail arenas. As designers present their collections for the upcoming season, they ask nail pros and brands to create mani/pedi styles to complement, thereby offering a fascinating glimpse at the artistic trends set to dominate. These events are also a chance for nail brands to test their products, and for pros to try innovative techniques. Let’s go behind-the-scenes of recent runway shows and delve into the nail creations showcased for the autumn/winter 2025 season…

BACKSTAGE REPORT: Glitterbels x Poet-Lab

Ebony Shepherd

“Glitterbels co-founder & CEO, Annabel Maginnis, has always had a passion for fashion,” says Ebony Shepherd, Glitterbels creative brand manager. “In 2024, she reached out to designer, Kate Barton, and bagged the Glitterbels team a job at New York Fashion Week. Annabel had been bitten by the fashion bug and once on UK soil, she contacted more brands.

Photos by Ebony Shepherd

“Guiseppe Iaciofano responded, as he met Annabel at the V&A Fashion in Motion X Orange Culture show in August 2024, where he was a stylist. His brand, Poet-Lab, debuted at London Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2025, and the Glitterbels session team was enlisted to create nail looks.” This team typically comprises Annabel as the nail lead and Ebony as photographer, alongside Glitterbels head of education, Charli Jepson; deputy head of education, Jennie Nippard; educator, Adonia West, and content creator, Stacey Machin. However, the team adapts depending on the size of a show.

Annabel Maginnis & Ebony Shepherd

The nail brief

“We received a brief and inspirational photos a few days after being asked to create nail looks for the Poet-Lab show,” Ebony details. “It is imperative that a Fashion Week nail team works with the designer and stylists to tell a story, and this show had a dark and enchanting theme, with layering and abstract shapes. Annabel created various black and white nail styles to suit, and Gusieppe chose a blooming black tip with a white streak.”

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in Black £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

The design was created using Glitterbels Hema Free Gel Polish in Cinnamon Swirl for the base, and Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gels in Black and White at the tips, applied with an ombré brush. “The team worked around the clock to ensure the look was achieved on over 100 nail tips,” Ebony shares.

BACKSTAGE REPORT: Andreia Professional x SRVC Studio

Hayley Evans-Smith

Womenswear brand, SRVC Studio, fuses sci-fi, suiting and sensuality in its AW25 clothing collection. The design team turned to session manicurist, Hayley Evans-Smith, to create nail looks for models for the design house’s London Fashion Week showcase. The pro used Andreia Professional products to fashion the styles, and incorporated piercings to elevate designs.

“SRVC Studio has always celebrated strong, powerful women,” explains Hayley. “Nails have the ability to finalise a look’s tone, so it’s important that they embody a collection’s concept – right to the finer details. My goal was to create a statement that made the models feel confident and empowered. Using piercings in an unexpected manner, especially on delicate nails, added a tough and assertive vibe.”

Photo courtesy of Hayley Evans-Smith

Hayley created 576 nails: 18 for each of the 32 models. “The prep took between three and four days to complete, but from brief to approval, it was a two-week process of trialling designs,” she reveals. “This was made manageable thanks to my assistant, Yuca Murakami. I used Andreia Professional Nutricolor Nail Polish in NC21 as the base, then airbrushed other Nutricolor shades at the tips of the nails. The brand’s Lab: Coconut Cuticle Oil was an essential on the day to make the skin glow.”

Photo courtesy of Hayley Evans-Smith
Andreia Professional Nutricolor Nail Polish in NC21 Milky Pink £2.99 + VAT & Lab: Coconut Cuticle Oil £3.49 + VAT www.salon-services.comwww.andreiaprofessional.com
Photo courtesy of SRVC Studio
Photo by Bishop Elegino of @bish.op

Recreate the look

Hayley offers advice for translating the style into a more wearable option for clients, suggesting a focus on the faded ombré and contrasting silver details. “You can airbrush or use pigment for the ombré tips, and add gems or studs instead of piercings for an everyday take on the look,” she says.

Product picks at Kim Shui

On the Kim Shui New York Fashion Week runway, six eye-catching nail finishes were created by nail artist & OPI ambassador, Coca Michelle. Let’s explore the creative process for some of the looks...

Western belt

OPI GelColor in Brown to Earth provided the base for this cowboy core look. After silver chrome was applied, the Western print was painted using OPI Super Gloss No-Wipe Top Coat mixed with GelColor in Black Onyx and a fine liner brush. A final layer of chrome and top coat finished the design.

Photo by Bishop Elegino of @bish.op
OPI GelColor in Blinded by the Ring Light £19.90 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com

3D croc print

OPI GelColor in Blinded by the Ring Light and Cliffside Karaoke were chosen as the base shades for a 3D crocodile print design. Coca painted the scales using Cliffside Karaoke on an uncured base of OPI GelColor Super Base base coat, and GelColor in Brown to Earth was used to create definition. After a coat of OPI Super Gloss No-Wipe Top Coat, the 3D effect was achieved by layering the top coat over the scales.

Photo by Bishop Elegino of @bish.op

Snake skin

GelColor in My Vampire is Buff and Brown to Earth were used as base hues for this animal print design. Brown to Earth was applied in a snakeskin pattern over a coat of uncured OPI GelColor Super Base, then GelColor in Black Onyx was used to paint micro dots and outlines.

OPI GelColor in Brown to Earth £19.90 + VAT uk.wella.professionalstore.com

“Nails are the perfect finishing touch to any look – they complete the vision.”

BACKSTAGE REPORT: Glitterbels x Ray Chu

Photos by Ebony Shepherd

“A first for Glitterbels was the Ray Chu presentation for London Fashion Week,” details Ebony Shepherd. “A presentation is very different from a standard runway event, as models sit and show off their looks for an hour or so. This allows guests to get a good look at the designs and offers the opportunity for plenty of photographs. “

The Ray Chu presentation was influenced by the beauty of Cyprus, with vibrant pops of colour and eccentric shapes, and the models posed around a table prepared for a celebration. “The event was inspired by a dinner party with friends, and an opulent tablescape was decorated with cocktails and cakes,” Ebony reveals. “The models worked their best angles, creating a beautiful scene of a party in full swing, and nails complemented the setting with bold colours, 3D elements and chrome finishes. Unreleased Glitterbels product, Chrome Crazy Powder, was used, alongside Unbelievabel Gels in Hot Shot and Sass Pot, and Hema Free Gel Polishes in Coffee Beans and Lady Bird.”

Glitterbels Hema Free Gel Polish in Coffee Beans £8.99 inc VAT & Unbelievabel Gel in Hot Shot £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

“No matter how small the space or the amount of models, a Fashion Week nail team comes together in harmony to create jaw-dropping creations.”

STEP-BY-STEP: Christian Cowan NYFW nails

Julie Kandalec

Celebrity manicurist & educator, Julie Kandalec, returned to her role as nail lead for the Christian Cowan New York Fashion Week show. The focal nail look nodded to the fashion designer’s signature polka dots via painted circles.

“We wanted to highlight the cut-out circles in a subtle way,” says Julie. “I love tonal designs and playing with different levels of opacity, so designed this look to incorporate both, featuring 10 shades of peach, sheer white and mocha.”

Image courtesy of Cessie C. Communications x Julie Kandalec

Check out a step-by-step for the style:

1. Apply stiletto-shaped full-coverage tips to the nails.

2. Apply a layer of CND Shellac Base Coat.

3. Apply one to two coats of CND Shellac in your chosen sheer or semi-sheer shade, and cure in between each layer. Shades used were Bouquet, Powder My Nose, Bare Chemise, Wrapped In Linen, Field Fox and Willow Talk. Some were mixed with top coat to achieve a sheer finish.

4. Using a detail brush or the curved brush in the bottle, apply your chosen shade in semi-circle shapes at the edges of the nails. Cure in between each layer.

5. Apply a coat of CND Shellac Top Coat to the nails and cure.

CND Shellac in Bouquet £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

STEP-BY-STEP: The Blonds NYFW nails

As has come to be expected with The Blonds New York Fashion Week showcases, outfits are a feast for the eyes and complemented by similarly dazzling nail designs.

Autumn/winter 2025 was no different, with an abundance of diamonds adorning nails, on shapes extended using CND™ PLEXIGEL Builder and coloured with CND Shellac™ shades.

Learn how to recreate the ‘jewelled serpentine’ nail look, coined by nail artist, educator & the pro behind this month’s cover style, Giselle Caballero:

1. Prep the nails.

2. Apply CND™ Pre-Shaped Stiletto Tips using CND™ Liquid Bond.

3. Build the nails using CND PLEXIGEL Builder and cure.

4. Clean with 99% IPA, then shape and refine.

5. Apply a layer of CND Shellac in Aura and cure, followed by a coat of CND Shellac in Bouquet. Cure.

6. Apply a layer of CND Shellac Matte Top Coat. Cure.

7. Clean the nail with 99% IPA.

8. Using a detail brush, apply CND PLEXIGEL Shaper in the snake pattern and where the other crystals will be placed. Do not cure.

9. Press diamond crystals onto the snake pattern and emerald crystals onto the remaining PLEXIGEL Shaper. Cure.

CND Shellac in Aura £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

TREND ALERT: fun textures

At autumn/winter 2025 Fashion Weeks , playfulness reigned supreme in the form of innovative nail textures, complementing bold fashion choices and drawing attention to fingertips.

Peacci Nail Polish in Arabian Night £7.49 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com
The GelBottle Inc Gel Polishes in Dune and Jet Black £15.95 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

Di Petsa

Lace nail frames and pearls dangling from fingertips made an impact on the Di Petsa London Fashion Week catwalk. Nail artist, Tyler Phoenix of @_tylerphoenix_nails,was behind the looks, describing them as ‘poetic and romantic’. The pro used The GelBottle Inc Gel Polish shades: Crème, Dune, Daisy and Jet Black, alongside Chrome Pigments in Blonde and Mirror Chrome and Peacci Nail Polish hues: Lolita, Bloodgood and Arabian Night.

“Nails have the ability to finalise a look’s tone, so it’s important that they embody a collection’s concept – right to the finer details.”

Luar

Brooklyn-based fashion brand, Luar, is known for its extravagant nail and beauty looks at New York Fashion Week, and nail artist & OPI partner, Naomi Yasuda, made sure this reputation was upheld. On Instagram, the pro described the nails she created: “The leading looks that tied into the collection were feather nails: three-inch, carved square nails, with each set having its own base colour of OPI Nail Lacquer in Black Onyx, or Infinite Shine in Alpine Snow or Livin’ La Vida Mocha. I attached the feathers onto the nails and added crystals to complete the looks.”

OPI Infinite Shine in Livin’ La Vida Mocha £9.30 + VAT/RRP £18 uk.wella.professionalstore.com
Instagram.com/lil__claws
Instagram.com/ellavivii
The GelBottle Inc Mirror Chrome Pigment £10 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Sinead Gorey

On the Sinead Gorey London runway, hand-crafted key charms were attached to pierced nails, and decorations included real keys, beads that spelled out the designer’s name and branded keyrings. A second look saw silver pearl-like oversized studs applied to nails, matching pearl decals on models’ shoes. Session manicurist, Ella Vivii, led the 3D designs using The GelBottle Inc. On the key charm nails, bases of TGB Gel Polish in Manhattan, Holly and Jet Black were applied, while TGB shade, Mirror Chrome, and Rubber Top top coat were used for the stud styles.

Photos by Ebony Shepherd

BACKSTAGE REPORT: Glitterbels x Peet Dullaert

The Glitterbels team created nails for its first Haute Couture Week in Paris: for Peet Dullaert’s spring 2025 showcase. “The gowns, shirts and skirts were covered in divine beading, jewels and sparkle, so the Glitterbels team felt at home,” Ebony Shepherd tells Scratch.

“The nail look for this show was particularly special, as Glitterbels debuted its nail polish formula in nude shades, Haute Couture and Oh Dolly!.

The team then added some magic to models’ pinky nails with oversized Preciosa crystals.” On Instagram, Glitterbels wrote: ‘where better to test a product than at Haute Couture Week?’ and revealed that the nail polish will be available soon.

This article appears in April 2025

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April 2025
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