16 mins
GEL GOALS: Mastered
Delve into the glories of the gel system & explore products to sculpt, perfect, aid artistry & more
Image courtesy of Light Elegance, showcasing The Broadway Show collection, available via www.lightelegance.co.uk
On a daily basis, you’re presented with clients, both new and regular, who have different nail needs. It may be that they seek a short extension, want to cover any pits or blemishes on their nails, enhance shape or showcase intricate nail art. And the gel system covers all.
Boasting strength and durability, gel provides flexibility that L&P acrylic can’t, and the system has a low odour. What’s more, gel can be manipulated and moved across the nail or form as desired until cured, allowing more time than L&P to create the chosen shape.
Traditionally, gels have been presented in a pot, with a separate brush required to sculpt and move the product onto the natural nail, a form or within a tip & overlay service. While this is still the case for most hard gels, which require filing to remove, recent years have seen the qualities of some traditional gels transferred into a brush-and-bottle formula; most commonly builder gels.
Builder gels can support the creation of salon-style shapes and lengths, but for more specific or complex requirements, let’s explore the abundance of gels on the market, so you can be equipped with knowledge and formulas to meet your clients’ needs.
TECH TALK
Nail art designer, Rebekah Pritchard, shares why she loves working with hard gel…
“I introduced hard gel services to my business as many of my clients required a system with durability and resilience. I find it very easy to work with and it maintains a glossy finish, while preserving the condition of the natural nail. None of my clients have experienced lifting with hard gel, and some of my two-week maintenance clients who have converted from soft to hard gel enhancements are leaving three weeks between appointments.
Rebekah Pritchard
“Great prep is imperative, and I use an E-file and hand tools to achieve a clean foundation for application. When applying builder gel, I turn the hands upside down so that the product levels quickly.”
Instagram: @rebekahxpritchard
HARD GEL VS SOFT GEL
Samantha Kendrew
Samantha Kendrew, training & development manager at Gerrard International, shares the differences between hard and soft gel.
“Hard gel is traditionally housed in a pot with a brush, is very rigid and has to be filed off to be removed. It has a tightly woven molecular structure, which makes it very strong and durable, and it has a thicker viscosity than soft gel, so allows the pro to build structure and length with ease.
“Soft gels, such as gel polish and some brush-on builder gels, have an elongated molecular structure with gaps, meaning they are more porous and can be broken down using acetone-based removal products. These gels are thin to apply and wear time is around two weeks.”
Enfield-based tech, @jellyznailwrld, enhances this classic French hard gel manicure with silver sparkle.
Lauren of @nailsnd.stuff adds glittering gold stars to a builder gel base.
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
“Gels leave a sticky residue between layers, so any fluff or dust will attach itself to the inhibition layer,” says Robyn McCarney, head of education at Izabelle Hammon Ltd. “I instruct clients to keep their phones on the table and their hands away from any fluffy jumpers,scarves or coats.
Robyn McCarney
Robyn continues: “Gels move around in their pots, so it is very important to keep gel pots upright at all times, to prevent the product from settling in the lids and causing mess and waste.”
Jess Swinburn
“Nail techs must use the gel brand’s recommended lamp,” reminds Glitterbels ambassador, Jess Swinburn. “Reputable nail brands test their gel formula against their lamp to guarantee a full cure. If you use an alternative lamp, the gel may be undercured, leading to overexposure of the product and issues such as lifting and allergic reactions.
“Also, do not apply gel too thickly, as it may wrinkle. Be particularly mindful when working with gel paints, as they have a thick viscosity and are highly pigmented. Apply in thin layers for a proper cure.
“When using gels that are self-levelling, if you do not cure or flash cure each nail as you go along, structure may be compromised,” Jess continues. “I suggest focusing on one nail at a time, and while that nail cures, work on a nail on the opposite hand.”
These gel nails by Catriona Leith of The Nail Studio, Cambridge, helped her scoop the Gel Tech of the Year title for the second year running in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023.
LOVE WORKING WITH GEL?
Showcase your talent by entering the Gel Tech of the Year category in the Scratch Stars Awards 2024, which recognises the work of nail pros in the UK&I.
CLICK HERE to fill in a free entry form by 10 March.
HANDY PRODUCTS
Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel Brush in Oval Size 6
£12 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Available in three sizes, this brush is made from high-quality fibre to support seamless application.
Mundo Nail Plate Cleanser
£14.95 + VAT & Lint-free Gauze Pads (200pk) £2.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk Prep the nails for gel application with Mundo’s Nail Plate Cleanser, dispersed onto a gauze pad. It helps remove contaminants while temporarily dehydrating the nail plate for greater product adhesion.
Halo Elite Stork Scissors
£5.95 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk Ideal for concise cutting of sculpting forms, these scissors have been designed by German engineers in partnership with UK nail pros, with ease and precision in mind.
Light Elegance MAXForm Aluminum Foil Forms (300pcs)
£28.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk Create enhancements to a variety of lengths with these handy forms, which have printed relief cuts for a custom fit and shape guidelines for easy reference.
Harmony Pro Perfetto Nail Tips (50pc) in Clear Size 10
£3.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk Made of virgin ABC plastic for maximum durability and longevity, adhere these tips before overlaying gel to create length.
WHICH GEL DO I USE?
✓ The client has flat nails that require an apex or short length to be created.
– GO TO SECTION A
✓ The client seeks a long enhancement or extreme, sculpted nail shapes as required for a competition.
– GO TO SECTION B
✓ The client requires a long-lasting, colourful and artistic nail service.
– GO TO SECTION C
✓ The client has weak, splitting natural nails and seeks extra strength.
– GO TO SECTION D
A - BUILD & SHAPE
Reinforce flat natural nails with a selection of builder gels with hard gel qualities, that have medium to thick viscosities to add structure, create C-curves and support the nails as they grow longer and stronger. Caterham nail stylist, Angelica Cordeiro, uses Artistic Correction Gel to create a smooth, consistent French finish for her client.
Artistic Correction Gel
£19.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Available in a brush-on formula, this gel can be used to build and strengthen and is available in three shades: Clear, Pink Concealer and Translucent Pink. It can also be used to repair breaks in the natural nail and provide a smooth foundation for colour or art.
En Vogue Nails Modeling Resin
£POA www.envoguenails.com This non self-levelling builder gel is formulated to rival acrylic in strength but has the benefit of added flexibility. It is available in nine shades.
Calgel in British Red
£16.98 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com
Salon System Gellux UV/LED Hard Gel in White Builder £13.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Build shape and craft glossy, natural-looking nail enhancements with this odourless gel, which can be infilled every two to three weeks. The gel has a thick viscosity and should be filed or buffed off to remove.
TECH TALK
“I have been using Calgel for over 20 years and know that with the product, I can confidently offer my clients a long-lasting gel manicure, extensions or nail repair and I can build the perfect C-curve. I love that Calgel’s focus is looking after the natural nail; I don’t need a primer or to file the natural nail for adhesion or longevity.”
Robyn McCarney, head of education at Izabelle Hammon Ltd.
Izabelle Hammon educator, Gemma Wainwright (@be_gelicious_nails), uses iZ PRO Colour Gel to create versatile, almond-shaped enhancements.
iZ PRO Colour Gel in Dulche De Leche
£16.98 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com Build shape, sculpt and offer full coverage with this gel, which has the benefits of hard gel but with soak-off removal. Base coats or primers are not necessary for application, and the formula offers up to six weeks’ wear.
Gelish Hard Gel Cover Pink Builder Gel
£19.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk Ideal for everyday wear, Gelish Hard Gel creates thin, natural-looking enhancements and can mask imperfections on the natural nail. The thick viscosity gel assures control and workability.
CND
TM PlexiGel Shaper
£22.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Suitable for all nail types, PlexiGel Shaper provides a protective barrier for the natural nail, promoting nail growth. It can support repairs, such as filling cracked nails, fixing breaks and shaping, and be used as a base for colour application. Use between PlexiGel Bonder and Protective Top Coat.
Nailchemy Origin Hard Gel in Cover Pink
£16.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Build and sculpt a natural-looking finish with Nailchemy’s Cover Pink Builder Gel. Hard-wearing, it has a medium to thick viscosity, is Hema-free and easy to file. It offers an ideal base for Nailchemy Gel Polish.
OPI Diamond Gel Builder+ in Neutral Pink
£54.18 + VAT www.opi.com This multi-purpose builder gel can be used to create semi-opaque to opaque extensions, to camouflage natural nail defects or create French or baby boomer styles. It can also be used to sculpt and is available in five other shades and a clear formula.
Lucy Price-Marshall
TECH TALK
“I love working with gel as it is so versatile. Some clients prefer hard gel over L&P, as they love the buttery finish of the neutral colours and the odourless application,” shares Lucy Price-Marshall,
OPI educator & Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023. “I love the structure, strength and length offered with OPI’s Diamond Gel, and being able to create natural-looking enhancements.”
A French nail finish by Lucy Price-Marshall, OPI educator & Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023, created using OPI Diamond Gel.
B - SCULPT & STYLE
Extend nails and experiment with long, shapely finishes by choosing a gel with a medium to thick viscosity. Use with forms or overlay with tips as desired.
Danish nail artist, @nailsbymasha_, mimics the look of the natural nail and provides strength and uniformity using CND™ Brisa Gels.
Nail sculpting in progress using CND™ Brisa Gel and Future Forms.
CND™ Brisa Hard Sculpting Gel
from £24.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Create thin, light, natural-looking nail sculpts with this hypoallergenic hard gel, designed to resist service breakdown. It’s also ideal for encasing nail embellishments. Use as part of the complete CND™ Brisa system for optimum results.
CND™ Future Forms Sculpting Forms (200pk)
£39.95 + VAT Use with…www.sweetsquared.com
Norwegian nail stylist, @malin.hummelvoll.negler, sculpts a short nail extension using NSI Balance Gel, and decorates with blue tips and spring-friendly flowers.
The GelBottle Inc Nude GelPot 2
£22.99 + VAT www.thegelbottle.comSculpt long, strong extensions with this medium viscosity hard gel, which is self-levelling and available in Clear, White and four pink and nude shades. Use over a layer of TGB Rubber Base or BIAB™.
Use with…
The GelBottle Inc On Form Sculpting Nail Forms (320pk)
£22 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com
NSI Balance Elite Gel
from £20.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk This Hema-free, odourless gel can be used with a form or tip to sculpt enhancements to the desired length. Ideal for any level of gel user, it has a super thick viscosity.
INK Fusion Gel in Signature
from £13.33 inc VAT www.inknails.com Easy to work with, yet offering strong adhesion, this hard gel has a medium viscosity that’s perfect for natural nail and tip overlays, as well as sculpting.
En Vogue Nails Simply Sculpt
£POA www.envoguenails.eu Compared by En Vogue to acrylic, this hard gel has no flexibility and does not self-level, making it ideal for competition nails and crafting extreme lengths and shapes. The formula is crystal clear.
Halo Elite Sculpting Gel
from £14.97 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk This clear, thick viscosity and non self-levelling hard gel can be used to build and extend using tips or forms. It’s ideal for L&P acrylic users looking to switch to a gel system and thins upon agitation for increased versatility and speed.
LCN Sculpture
from £43.85 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Available in 20ml and 100ml sizes, Sculpture is LCN’s most robust resin, designed for UV sculpting and extending gel nails. The durable, strong modelling gel is ideal for crafting C-curves and shaping nails. It boasts a high break resistance and is not self-levelling, ensuring it stays where you desire so you can construct a strong, flexible nail. Sculpture requires a bonding agent such as Bonder, Base Gel, Base Bond or Bio Bond, followed by a sealant.
C - LET’S GET ARTY!
Highly pigmented to create bright, eye-catching and colourful designs for clients seeking a bold look, colour and art gel formulas are formulated to offer hard-wearing, detailed nail art. They typically have a medium viscosity for easy application.
Utah-based gel nail artist, Taryn VanAlfen (@taryns.nails), shares a stylish take on a French manicure. The Light Elegance educator uses the brand’s ButterCream gels in Dress Rehearsal and Going Organic to achieve the look.
Light Elegance ButterCream in Dress Rehearsal
£17.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk This versatile, dark denim blue offers creamy coverage and can be applied in one to two coats without adding unwanted thickness.
The Glitterbels team shares a subtle nod to Valentine’s Day, decorating square Builder-Bel Gel enhancements with Unbelievabel Gel in It’s A Sin.
iZ Design Gel in Hot Pink
£8.50 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com Use this Hema-free nail art gel to paint crisp lines and precise shapes atop a clear base gel or colour gel. Ideal for nail artistry and French tips, the formula does not run or drop and can be mixed with other Design Gel shades to create bespoke hues.
Louella Belle brand ambassador & educator, Sharon Baker (@sharonbnails), paints black tips on top of Artistic’s Rubber Base, before decorating using a silver Artistic Flash Glitter and Artistic Art Paints in Silver and White.
Entity Gel Nail Art Pens
£39.99 + VAT www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk Available as a kit of six shades, these Striper Gels feature a micro-tapered brush to support detailed nail art designs. They offer great coverage and vivid colour, and are suitable for use over Entity’s LED curable nail systems.
Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in It’s A Sin
£9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Highly pigmented, Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel is available in over 120 shades. The file off, no-wipe formula can be applied using a gel brush over artificial nails or used to created detailed nail art designs.
The GelBottle Inc Studio Gel in Californian
£9.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com This creamy, non-drip and multi-use solid art gel offers nail pros, from beginner to advanced level, control when creating full cover overlays or precise nail art styles.
The team at The GelBottle Inc uses the brand’s Studio Gels to create a bold, geometric nail style with a touch of sparkle.
Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Everyone’s A Critic
£14.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk Offering semi-sheer coverage, this Glitter Gel is packed with jewel-tones and can be used over a natural-looking base shade or as a nail art highlight.
Calgel nail tech, @maisieleahnails, creates a punchy, impactful nail style that’s perfect for festival season. The Birmingham-based pro uses bright Calgel shades and promotes happiness with hand-painted smiley faces.
Artistic Art Paint in Silver Metallic
£9.99 +VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Ideal for painting precise, defined lines, the LED cured formula of Artistic’s Art Paints offers one coat coverage with no wrinkling, marbling or inhibition layer. The paints be used with all Artistic LED cured systems.
Calgel in Neon Nights & Magic Carpet
£16.98 + VAT each www.izabellehammon.com Offering speedy soak-off removal, the Calgel formula is vegan-friendly and offers a chip-free finish of up to six weeks. It can be used to overlay, for salon-friendly sculpts or to create nail art designs.
NSI social media advocate, Vicky Bancroft (@nailsbyvictoriab), creates a detailed portrait of Mirabel from Disney’s Encanto film using NSI Tech-Gel Colours.
HD Pro Nails Design It! Gel in Glam Peach
£12.49 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com The file-off colour gel can be used for nail art and one stroke creations or as a full colour over enhancements. Apply the highly pigmented formula using a gel or art brush.
NSI Tech-Gel Colour in Reminisce
£7.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk Tech-Gel Colours are pigment rich, formulated to offer full coverage in one coat. The tack-free finish cures to a high shine and can be used for one stroke techniques, nail artistry and full cover looks.
D - STRENGTHEN & SUPPORT
Choose gels with durable qualities or an infusion of fibre to support the natural nail, repair breaks and mask imperfections. The strong adhesion properties of these gels provide protection to the nail plate.
Artistic Rock Hard LED Gel in Hardcore Pink
£19.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk This tough, durable gel formula is ideal for brittle and weak nails. It can be used to create extensions that last up to three weeks, as well as to create structure and sculpt, and cures in 30 seconds (LED) to a rock hard finish.
Use with…
Artistic Get Bent Nail Forms (100pk)
£7.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk
LA-based nail artist & natural nail specialist, Marina Garcia, uses Light Elegance Lexy Line Fiber Gel in Natural to protect and support the natural nail and provide a smooth, natural-looking foundation for colour or art.
Light Elegance Lexy Line Fiber Gel in Natural
from £52.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk The Light Elegance Lexy Line Fiber Gel is a medium-to-thick viscosity, self-levelling formula. Ideal for adding shape and length to weak nails, it contains 10% fibreglass for strength and durability.
TOP TIP
Save time by applying Light Elegance Lexy Line Gel to all five fingers and letting it self-level while you work on the other hand.
LCN FiberTech Gel
£24.40 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Use FiberTech Gel to strengthen and repair long, natural nails, infill or create a thin overlay. The gel, available in four natural-looking shades, contains transparent fiberglass particles and can be used with paper form extensions.
INK London iJel in Dusty Nude
from £12.50 inc VAT www.inknails.com Ideal for adding support to damaged nails and masking imperfections, this UV/LED curable hard gel can be used over tips or to sculpt. It has a touch of flexibility to prevent chipping and does not require a separate base gel.
Gelish Structure Gel
from £16.99 + VAT & Brush-On Structure Gel in Clear £19.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk /www.salon-services.com Reinforce strength, enhance nails or repair damage to the nail plate with Structure Gel. Also available in a brush-on formula that can be removed with Artificial Nail Remover.
Halo Elite Fibre Gel in Clear
from £13.27 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk Fibre Gel is ideal for nail repairs and allowing chips or cracks to grow out naturally without breaks. Boasting a medium to thick viscosity and infused with 10% fibreglass, it’s super strong with low flexibility and ideal for extreme nail extensions.
En Vogue Nails Fibre Gel
£POA www.envoguenails.eu Self-levelling and boasting a low viscosity, this hard gel contains micro-fibres that provide extra strength while maintaining flexibility, making it an ideal protective layer for long-lasting gel manicures.
LCN Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus
£17.30 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Tackle various toenail issues, from deformities to discolouration, with Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus, a formula enriched with Piroctone Olamine and colloidal micro silver to support healthy toenail growth. Ideal for reconstruction, it is available in Clear, Pink, Opak, Pastel and Natural Beige.
Lecenté Create Fibre Gel in Milky Pink £15.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk This Hema-free, soakable builder and base gel is ideal for weak natural nails. The formula features thousands of tiny fibre pieces that interlock to create a super strong nail structure. The product can be used in one to two layers as a base or to build structure.