Hard Gel Hero

CHANTELLE JOHNSON, co-founder of the Clawgasmic nail community, shares why she believes the hard gel system is making a comeback & the importance of taking note

Brush-on builder gel has taken the nail world by storm, and I feel it has kick-started the resurgence of hard gel for enhancement services. The system isn’t new: it was one of the first I trained in, and offers benefits that can’t be achieved with builder gel and classic gel formulas.

Ask yourself the following questions about your clients:

• Do they send pictures of their chipped or broken nails in the days after their appointments?

• Do they love a crisp, sharp nail shape, and get frustrated when their enhancements blunt in between appointments?

• Are they heavy-handed and so require additional nail strength?

• Do they request sleek, natural-looking nail enhancements or extra length? I believe that hard gel can provide the solutions required.

Nail tales

I have been tending to my best friend’s nails for years, but builder gel does not seem to last up to three weeks on her.

While the product has been a great addition to many treatment menus, it’s imperative to offer clients prescriptive manicures. This will determine the system and formulas best suited to their nails and lifestyles. I compare nail services to skincare; the same moisturiser won’t suit every skin type, so we can’t expect a nail product or treatment to suit every nail client.

My best friend swims every day for at least one hour and works in an office, where typing takes its toll on her nails.

She loves long nails with a crisp almond shape, but builder gel enhancements are not the right fit for her.

I began using hard gel within her appointments earlier this year and the system lasts on her nails; they feel strong, she doesn’t suffer from lifting anymore, and I don’t feel the need to consistently check in to see how her manicure is faring.

Technique tips

It’s more important to me to offer my clients what they need, rather than what’s trending – or what they think they want. Talk to your clients about their lifestyles and what they want to achieve from their nail treatments. Assess the condition of their natural nails, and remember that their nail needs may change over time.

Some techs are put off by product formulas that can’t be soaked off, and I understand this – but hear me out: hard gel removal is easier than you think. To remove hard gel safely and efficiently, work your way down in file grits as you get closer to the natural nail.

“It’s more important to me to offer my clients what they need, rather than what’s trending – or what they think they want.”

I tend to debulk hard gel enhancements with a coarse E-file bit, such as the Coast Smooth Top Barrel Bit from Nibovi. I then use a 240-grit sanding band as I get closer to the natural nail. I recommend keeping the E-file on a slow RPM setting when removing hard gel. Take your time and smooth the nail with a 240-grit buffer if needed.

It’s also important to keep hard gel brushes and pots away from light sources, such as windows and lamps, to prevent premature curing. If hard gel is cured into bristles, it’s game over for the brush: something I’ve learned the hard way! Hard gel generally has a thick viscosity, so education is key.

“Accredited by ABT, this online course will help you to understand what your client needs from a nail enhancement service, and offers lifetime access so you can re-watch at any time.”

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